Well... I figured it is about time I start a project thread. I will get some pictures up this evening. I am taking some quick time from getting the house ready for our next daughter due on August 15th.

Today I picked up an '81 (at least that was what the seller said) 22R short block to put together a 20R hybrid. I only paid $10 for it! Guy had it in his wheeler, but decided to get a Tacoma engine in it, though he had already used the head, so I couldn't grab that up. However, he left an aftermarket piece on it that attaches between the oil filter and block that allows you to run additional oil line or attach whatever (I can't remember the name of the piece), which is probably more than $10.

I was able to put a breaker bar onto the crankshaft pulley and turn the motor over with some decent amount of effort. There is no pitting or scarring (that I noticed) in the piston shafts. There are not marks (but quite a bit of carbon) on top the pistons.

There was some crap in the oil pan after I pulled it off, but it looked more like a lot of bad gunky oil rather than metallic flakes.

We will see if it is rebuildable (this would be my FIRST), but if it is not, I am hoping it will do for the core.

This is going to be a slow nickel and dime build, but hopefully I can get this project off the ground! I do have some rust holes in the cab to take care of (unless I can find a cheap cab to replace it), and the bed will have to be replaced. After that, I have not decided if I want to leave it as is or make a pre-runner out of it. We'll see.

I'll get picks of the 22R block up later! I'm being yelled at to get off my fat ass.

 

I for one cant wait to see!

 

alright. another local guy building a yota. lol. keep us posted how it goes. i have a spare 20R head if you cant find one at the pull a part in arlington

 

Sweet!

I might be interested. I was planning on using the head that is on my current 20R, but if I could put together a motor and have little down time on my pickup, it would be ideal.

I will try for some pictures when I get home tonight from work. A migraine Saturday evening and a day trip Sunday kept me from getting anything posted!

 

sounds good. let me know. i had the same plan to build a second head and block. and sell mine after the swap. but im unsure if im building a 20/22 or a 5M/7M. and either way, if im doing the head work locally or just ordering one up. i havent checked if its level or cleaned it up. but its all there. i think i have a valve cover and maybe the rocker train too. but i suggest use the later model 22RE rockers since they are cast alum not cast iron. little bit lighter, same ratio.

 

Some pics...

Crappy cell pics of the block





Some decent pics of the truck when I bought it (I removed the canopy for now).










Question:

What's a good way to remove the crank pulley with the engine being out?

 

If the oil pan is still off, wedge a piece of WOOD between one of the rods and the block girdle. You could use a steel bar as a wedge IF YOU ARE VERY CAREFUL.

 

i always just use a puller. it looks like a peace sign without the circle around it. it bolts to the small holes and has a big bolt that pushed against the center. works on steering wheels and things like this.

also, ditch that rear bumper. lol. i have some small interior parts if you need anything. is that front bumper straight, i cant tell? if you swap to a chrome one im interested in that one. and i might have a spare set of center caps that arent covered in paint.

but it looks like a nice solid start. little rust here and there but not bad.

 

Looks nice and solid! Can't wait to see the progress on it.

 

x2 on the puller, its only $12 or less at harbor frieght

 

schucks also sells ones. i forgot what brand my puller is, but schucks sold me a badass spring compressor. lol. they seem to hold up okay.

 

More to the point...

What I meant was, how do I remove the center bolt on the crank pulley, so I can use the puller to remove it?!? Last crank pulley bolt I removed was on my former 87 Camry, and I put a breaker bar on the bolt, wedged it to the ground, and turned the car over. Since this engine is out, I'm not too sure how to get that bolt off.

I think the block of wood idea was more to that point.

Thanks!

 

the best way to do that is to use an impact gun if you have access to air but i have used a big screwdriver wedged between the flywheel bolts and the engine stand

 

yeah. if you can wedge something between the balancer and the block, or between the belt and a pulley and get a good hit on that bolt it should work. ive done stuff like that in truck.

 

So, I made progress 'field stripping' my 22R block.

I got the crank shaft bolt/pulley off (didn't need a puller to yank it after I pulled the bolt).

I removed the oil/water pumps and timing cover (wanted to get a visual of the condition of the pumps, and I might as well renew them). Found that the longer, straighter timing belt guide (driver side, I believe) was pretty f*ed up. The bolts holding it down have had their heads mostly sheared away, and the guide is messed up. I don't have the equipment to tear those bolts out yet.

I managed to remove the crankshaft. Now I need to remove the pistons. I worked on cleaning the top of the cylinder, then I pushed the pistons straight up (per the Haynes manual), and it didn't come out. It came a few centimeters above the block, but would not go further. I tried this on all the pistons with the same result. Any thoughts/advice on this one?

 

almost sounds like your ridge of the top of the bore is holding up on one of the lower rings. maybe try taking them out the bottom?

 

ya try through the bottom cause you can damage the piston if you go from the top

 

Or, just cut the ridge and pull 'em out, as it is usually easier to put them back in that way, hah

 

A bed and battery on the way!

So, I'll be getting the pictured bed delivered today:


with a used battery that works.

With the delivery charge this guy was asking, I'll be putting out about $60 ($20 for bed, $1/mile one way, and then a bit of change for the battery). He assures me there is no rust holes in the bed, and there are minor dings/scratches around with the worst being pictured. Either way, it should be better than what I have on my truck currently! LOL.

 

dang thats cheap!

so is the passenger side of your original bed rusted/damaged??

looks pretty good in the pics.