Did someone order the fish plate?

I got the body dropped.

I am glad to finally see the body down. When I started this venture I was planning on a 2.25" drop, but after finding out about the 1.5" z it ended up being 3.75" total drop. So it looks like a lot. I am going to have to do a lot of work to clearance the fenders.

I got the front of the frame plated. It is really steep.


It looks ok but not as much like it belongs there as z by the cab. You won't really see it much though. I was just trying to leave as much of the frame at original height as possible for the control arm braces. I still have to get those modified and reinstalled with a new crossmember. Plus I need to figure out the steering/oilpan clearance issue so I can drop mymotor mounts.

 

Oh ok. now i follow along. Earlier you said you cut the floor away from the edges. (obvious from the pics)

then you dropped the body. You did this by redoing the body mounts? Or whats holding up the body?

And thats what you and bernie was talking about with the angle plates by the door? Looks good.

Looking real good. Cant wait till you finish up the rest of the build.

 

i love me some fish plates!

i've seen pics (can't remember where) of a drag link that max fish did. he cut out the center and dropped it enough to clear the pan, then welded on some braces. kinda like the fish plates on your z.

 

Thanks! Me too! It should keep moving along pretty quickly. I hope to have it road worthy within a month or two, but you know how these projects go, it could be longer.

That's kinda like what I had pictured when I read "sectioned drag link", but I only found vague references. Your description just now was the most accurate one I have so far... Sounds pretty good really... I think I need to do that and section the pan like this one:

http://shop.twistedminis.com/product.sc?categoryId=2&productId=12

I was going to lower the crossmember under the motor an inch, but I was looking under there and I am worried that would keep me from laying frame. So I guess I have to section my oil pan. Even sectioned like the one shown, my pan would still hit the drag link if I lower my motor 1.5". So sectioned drag link? I know people always get a little concernicus when it comes to steering components, but usually they are pretty weldable steel. I think it is worth giving it a shot probably, unless there is some easy fix I am missing.

 

yep, if you lower the engine x-member you won't lay out. it's kind of like reversing the z. the drag link is weldable. or if you want you could make a custome one with some D.O.M. tubing, tube adapters and heim joints..... but i would just modify the original.

and i think you could easily modify the oil pan and pick up tube. you shop seems well stocked so i'm imagining theres a tig in there somewhere.

 

I agree. Section the drag link and oil pan. TIG weld the pan. Shorten the pickup tube. I was glad to see I can still just barely hook up my steering. It contacts the upper control arm and master cylinder but barely and it is not really bound. At some point I should do something about it, but it works. The boss is back and I have to wrap this up in some shape or form in the next day or so. It is coming along. I got the slanted parts inside the doors all welded up. I might stop welding on the cab for now though and focus on dropping the motor mounts and sectioning stuff now that I have a plan to work with. I also still have to clearance my inner fenders to clear the new drop. I think I might actually have to put the torsion bars back in and crank em up just to get the thing home. It is gonna be low (at least the front).

 

I agree, lowering the crossmember would prevent the rest of your frame from laying out and effectively undo your Z. I also doubt your torsion bars are going to fit now that you've done the Z. You'll probably have to cut out most of the fender wells in order to get your tires to roll. Just my $.02

 

Crap! I think your right! I guess I will have to cut out most of my fenderwells. Thanks for pointing that out. I'll get it to roll somehow. If I have to tack a .5" shim under the bumpstop I will. I have to get the thing moved today or tomorrow.

 

hows this goin? haven't seen you on lately!...

i'm assuming your up to your ass in work buttoning it up!

 

Basically yes! It was about three times harder than I thought it would be. I did get it somewhat roll-able, but I am actually going to have to tack some plates under the bumpstops or do some more fender trimming to get it so I can drive it home. The body drop it still really only half done, but the hard half is out of the way I am sure. I got super busy to get the thing out of the shop by Monday and I am still trying to get caught up on my life. I have a new respect for people who do body drops. It is serious business! So much has to be taken into consideration to get it right...

Anyhow, time for some pics right?
Before body drop:

After:




I got the parts right inside the doors welded and about half of the firewall over the tranny (the side with the gas pedal so I could put it back together). The back of the cab is about half done. I want to take off the gas tank when I do the part of the cab right there. I didn't get the motormounts dropped. I ran out of time. The truck is back together and runs but it is really low. I can't wait to get the four link done so it isn't so raked, but I love the body drop! Thanks again Burnzya and Still2hi and everyone who offered advice and helped out!

 

lookin good man, how do you think the lower radiator hose will fit after you drop the motor?

 

My radiator hose is hooked up and clears. I just described it for you in another post. Here it is:

That lower radiator hose is a bitch! I just dealt with this on my 89 that I have the body drop thread about. I trimmed the sheet metal radiator mount (on the body of the truck) and welded on new mount plates 3/4" forward from the old ones. I got a new napa radiator hose that had a nice sharp kink in it and had the right z shape to it but a few inches longer than stock. I can get the part number if it would help. I had to cut both of the hose to make it fit right but it clears. I also had to trim the control arm brace bucket right to the part that the brace is mounted to, with the adjuster nut. I just cut right where it goes to one layer of steel. I also had to shorten the control arm brace by about 1/4". The hose now clears the control arm brace bucket and the brace. I still need to weld a new crossmember in between the buckets but it will clear the hose.

 

Oops... Wasn't paying attention... You said after I drop the motor... I think the new hose I found will still work for me but if not I will hit up Napa again. The one I go to has all the hoses right out in the main room so you can pick out the one that looks like it will fit. It took two tries to get one just right.

 

rite on thanks

 

This may not be the easiest way. I asked around for a couple days and didn't really get a definitive answer so I just kinda winged it. Moving the radiator forward a bit helped out a lot in my case though. I will get the part number for the hose later tonight and post it up here just in case it will help anyone. How much body drop/frame z/engine drop are you dealing with?

 

yeah ive been searching for a min and didnt find much moving it forward and up just a tad if you want to keep stock hood. change to a tubular control arm set up that would fix it completely

 

Lower radiator hose

So here is how my radiator is currently hooked up:

It is moved forward .75" or so and probably up about .5" too but as yu can see in the pic it could be dropped a bit and I may end up having to do that. I had to trim off both ends of this hose but it ended up being the perfect size with my 2.25" body drop and 1.5" frame z. It would still work with 1" dropped motor mounts I am sure, but I don't know about with the 1.5" dropped mounts I plan to run. It might still work. The hose is NAPA part number 7896.

 

Did you ever figure out what to do about your drag link & the control arm that is real close to the steering rod?? Ive seen pics of what Seth has done to trucks to fix these issues. If you need me too I can post pics of what he & others have done.

 

lets see the pics

 

Here is what Seth did...he did a write up on it as well.

http://www.twistedminis.com/SMF/index.php?topic=25.0

Im looking for the pic of the control arm & as soon as I find it Ill post it.