High Output Alternators

Discussion in 'Maintenance/Repair' started by TRUCK ACTION, Apr 13, 2009.

  1. TRUCK ACTION

    TRUCK ACTION Grand Toyotaholic

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    I am resending what I have in the pasted posted on this subject,I recommended a shop that rebuilt my stock alternator to output a 140 amps!
    Seems I got ****ed,as had to get into a shop for testing & repair,& the rectifier should have been a heavy duty unit with larger diodes! It was stock,may not have even been replaced! And the output was up from stock ( 60 amps) to 100,but a far cry from the 140 I paid for!
    Sorry for the miss leading info! Hope no other person used the shop I had stated!!:mad:
     
  2. lownloud

    lownloud Toyotaholic

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    What shop, I musta missed something man . . .
     
  3. TRUCK ACTION

    TRUCK ACTION Grand Toyotaholic

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    Custom Chrome Racing,in SoCal. Found these guys @ a Goodguy show,said they could rebuild my alternator to 140 output. Ran for 3 years now ,but recently fried the diodes,as they were stock!!
    DID NOT RECEIVE WHAT I HAD PAID FOR! :mad:
     
  4. lownloud

    lownloud Toyotaholic

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    Didja do anymore legwork with communication with them or did they own up to anything?
     
  5. TRUCK ACTION

    TRUCK ACTION Grand Toyotaholic

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    No,didn't even bother! It's was made 3 years ago. Should work well with the over size diodes,just less output than I wanted.:cool:
     
  6. suncomb1

    suncomb1 Enthusiast

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    I was wondering if they told you that you had to run a heavier wire (8 Gauge) from the alternator to the battery; you still hook up your stock wiring as normal. I have a 90 Amp alternator and I would like to install something around 140 Amps but so far I can not find one that will mount on my Toyota engine. Any suggestions?
     
  7. TRUCK ACTION

    TRUCK ACTION Grand Toyotaholic

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    Yes,upped the main wire a gauge or two. Also the main fuse from 60 to 120!
    Ground & supply leads are 2 gauge!From battery ( in engine bay distribution block)to starter 2 gauge!:cool:
     
  8. Nook

    Nook Addict

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    I run a GM 140 amp on one and a 130 amp on the other rig, easy swap with a little trimming on the lower mount, and fabbing up the tensioner arm to fit the larger case size, both are internal regulated so only minor rewiring needed.
    They are basically the 1 wire style alternators but I wired them as a 3 wire setup which is better suited for a daily. They do make some H/O Toy alternators but they are rather spendy, the GM style are readily available and a lot less expensive.
     
  9. suncomb1

    suncomb1 Enthusiast

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    Thank you for the info. Do you have a source or a contact where you purchased your alternators?
     
  10. Nook

    Nook Addict

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  11. TRUCK ACTION

    TRUCK ACTION Grand Toyotaholic

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    Can't use a one wire on EFI engine ,as one of the wires triggers the electric choke! The only high output I found is made by Powermaster, 160/90 @ idle,$680
    :cool:
     
  12. usb

    usb Newbie

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    Pictures of GM alt in yota please

    I would like to see photos of the install of the gm alt and more info what was done I have a person that wants to put a GM CS130 in that location.. IM also am putting a Ohio Gen Alternator in the power steering location... i run car audio competitions so i need as much power as i can. thanks
     
  13. Nook

    Nook Addict

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    Its been a while since I did the upgrade so bear with me, the GM alternator bottm mount that the long bolt goes thru was a little wider than the stock toy unit, I ground off the front part of the mount so it fit the Toyota bracket, I,m almost certain I took it all off the front, but you want to check for sure as you want to grind off enough that the alternator fits the bracket and the pulley aligns with the other pulleys, so a bit off each end might be in order, very easy to check and see.
    You may need to reclock the alternator case depending on how its assembled, you want the lower mount at bottom, top mount at top, and the battery post and plug on the back at your most convenient spot for your application, pretty much the same positions as the stock unit you took off.
    The upper tensioner arm it seemed I had to lengthen it some, I just made sure the curved slotted part fit the curvature of the new larger alternator so it had good travel to tighten the belt, then just tweaked the part that bolts to the front of the engine and welded it back together, again easy to do.
    Thats it for mounting the unit, the wiring, at least on mine is rewired as a 3 wire unit, the large wire goes to the battery post just like original, Napa sells a pigtail plug for around 5 bucks that plugs directly into the GM alternator, the #1 plug on the alternator goes to the idiot light wire and the #2 plug goes to 12v with the key on, thats the exciter. Those should be the same as what you took off the stock unit but you might want to verify with a diagram or by testing as I,m not sure on the newer units, mine are upgraded on older trucks that originally had external regulators so the wiring I,m sure is different.
    Thats it, I'll try to get some pictures in the daylight although its a little cramped down there in mine to get a good view.
     

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