Wtf!! That's how you know these shops have inexperienced techs.. and won't let them touch anything 'custom'.. hahahah pathetic. I can see them not wanting to touch something 'stanced' with aggressive angles but your shooting for pretty stock specs.. so the most affected area lowered would probably only be caster during full rotation.. toe/camber are not/should not be affected upon wheel height relevant to the wheel well, except when in the air/under no load(negative camber). They're just being pussies imo... If your rails were that much bent, you would be able to spot it with your naked eye.. if you really feel like they are out of wack, measure from the inside of the rails, top to top/bottom to bottom. Should be fairly close as both sides are squared to each other.. o ly other thing could be a defective spindle which I have not heard of yet for belltech.
I've been studying your alignment sheet... Did a little googling to look up SAI (Steering Axis Inclination) and the definition for Included Angle. Looking at that 21.7° SAI AND 21.8° Included Angle looks to me like the driver side drop spindle is the problem. Perhaps it is somehow bent or the hub carrier was machined incorrectly by 10°. Or, another possibility is that the ball joint bores are crooked... Since both the SAI and Incuded Angle are equally too high by 10°, it's probably safe to assume your frame is fine. Further, your alignment was fine before you installed the drop spindles which again points to a defective part. Edit: just thought of another possibility. Perhaps a bent ball joint? Finally, that Cross SAI of 12° would further make your steering squirrelly due to the different scrub radii, left wheel vs. right wheel. I guess I better check/measure my Belltech spindles...
It is not confirmed that my alignment was fine before the front end suspension job. I've been doing a lot of research on at home alignments and I think tomorrow will take on the task to see how close I can get things, then see how it drives.
Oh, I just assumed since you didn't say it was squirrelly before your suspension work that it was okay. Sorry.
I've been having battery problems, and bike to work and the grocery store, so I really wasn't driving much. The last drive I took, I did hit a curb, but hadn't driven it since, so I really have no idea. I've found how to do camber, toe, and caster(ish) at home, but the whole SAI and such seems to be either set by those other adjustments or you're screwed. I just hope that tomorrow isn't going to be in the 90s again.
I dunno; I think if it were me (and it kind of is, since your problem has me wondering about my Beltech parts), I would (and probably will) first check and look into why the Included Angle is so far off before trying to align camber, caster, and toe. If I'm not mistaken, it appears the drop spindle is the only part you haven't checked closely. If you start with bent or defective parts, it'll be difficult, if not impossible, to get a good alignment.
If you find your spindles are not up to snuff you can look at Wilwood drop spindles. I believe they're a 2" drop as well and offer shorter steering arms to give a greater steering angle. A little bit higher in price, but may be netter in manufacturing processes. If I remember correctly, Wilwood is a billet, 2 piece unit with the steering arm being bolted to the knuckle. I went with the Belltech for that reason, 4 bolts I don't have to worry about.
Interesting.... I thought Belltech was the only game in town, especially for these old, import trucks. I'll have to check them out... Edit: Did a quick search. Found a site (Stabfab) that said they require Wilwood brakes and calipers. Meh, too much extra requirements. And shorter steering arm also means more turning effort. Too bad the stock steering arm can't be used as an option for those of us who just want a lower CG (and better looks). However, forged steel is nice. Thanks, SirDeuce for the info. Back to the problem at hand....
No idea what the problem is. but I did get the alignment to a place I feel better about. I have the camber dialed in, and caster I think is darn close to what it should be. I do have I think 1/2" of shims to get it there. Other projects have taken priority for now. When I'm done with the big rewiring job and the truck is drivable again I will revisit the alignment.