Question about lowering

Discussion in 'Suspension/Chassis' started by yota1_mikey, Jan 30, 2021.

  1. yota1_mikey

    yota1_mikey Newbie

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    I’m new to this Forum, I got a 91 pickup xcab. Has anyone used drop spindles and lowering control arms to lower the front? Also, has anyone used drop leaf springs with drop blocks in the rear? What modifications is needed to achieve this static drop, which shocks are preferred to use and how will the ride be like? I know for sure I’m gonna need a c-notch for the rear. If anyone has any knowledge and tips on this set up, please lmk because this is the type of setup I’m trying to do IF it’s possible
     
  2. jetas

    jetas Grand Toyotaholic

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    Everything you listed has been done. Its all possible. Just get all the parts necessary and knock it out. Spend some time here searching and youll see a number of combos.
     
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  3. yota1_mikey

    yota1_mikey Newbie

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    Thanks for the reply man!! Just trynna figure out what I should do. Another option someone told me for the front is drop spindles, BJ flip, and adjust torsions.
     
  4. jetas

    jetas Grand Toyotaholic

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    What are the long term plans?

    spindles and BJ flip are good if you're good with about a 3" drop. Adjust torsions to level it in case its a little off.
     
  5. yota1_mikey

    yota1_mikey Newbie

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    my long term plans is to have a comfortable static drop. Around 6/6 drop would be my ideal set up for a DD
     
  6. TRUCK ACTION

    TRUCK ACTION Grand Toyotaholic

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    Like said above do a lot of research
    I rode static dropped for a long time with plans to bag my 88
    Dropped spindles & turned down torsion's at the front & dropped leafs & angled blocks at rear ,was 4.5 at frame to ground which is my ride height with bags. The rear end would slam the frame on bumps so went forward with the rear frame notch which would have came later. 8 piece 8'' notch fully wielded in .
     
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  7. Justin Danger

    Justin Danger Toyotaholic

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    I think 6" of drop is a bit extreme for a static drop.

    I'm at about 4" drop currently, and I have to avoid any parking lots with speedbumps or steep inclines. I haven't gone with drop spindles. I'm just on DJM lower control arms, ball joint flip, and eased torsion bars. Out back is Belltech lowering leafs and some 1.5" blocks. I've messed around with a few shocks out back, and some of the OE+ would slap frame, but performance shocks seem to be stiff enough that does happen. All my bump stops are low profile.

    What is the advantage of drop spindles?
     
  8. jetas

    jetas Grand Toyotaholic

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    6" drop aint too bad tbh. Honestly tho to be comfortable you're eventually going to want to go with coilovers
     
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  9. yota1_mikey

    yota1_mikey Newbie

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    I just need to do more research about what shocks would be best for comfortability. After looking at all the other threads about lowering, spindles + lcas and lower springs + block work good without depending on using the torsions mainly for the drop if that makes sense.
     
  10. jetas

    jetas Grand Toyotaholic

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    Any shock in the factory positions after being lowered are going to suck unless you find something super short to work in the space available. Best bet is to relocate the shocks so you dont need any weird specialty shock
     
  11. yota1_mikey

    yota1_mikey Newbie

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    Relocating shocks for front and rear?
     
  12. jetas

    jetas Grand Toyotaholic

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    Yea. Otherwise you'll be running compressed shocks.
     
  13. TRUCK ACTION

    TRUCK ACTION Grand Toyotaholic

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    Dropped spindles give you 2'' drop at front while keeping the geometry correct!
     
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  14. Justin Danger

    Justin Danger Toyotaholic

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    Thanks! I gave it some thinking and realized that it is just like blocks: changes the axle point, but keeps everything else in place. Seems like a lot more work, but that might be worth it!
     
  15. TRUCK ACTION

    TRUCK ACTION Grand Toyotaholic

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    The right way to do it
    Also you will not have negative chamber
     
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  16. yota1_mikey

    yota1_mikey Newbie

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    By any chance you have any knowledge/tips of relocating the front/ rear shocks? I need to look more into that
     
  17. jetas

    jetas Grand Toyotaholic

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    Only solutions i have require welding. There are plenty of relocation parts out there. Thorbros being one of them
     
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  18. White Trash

    White Trash Toyotaholic

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    Front shocks don't need to be relocated at all if you use shocks for a 92 chevy s10 blazer. They're bout 2" shorter but still bolt into the stock yota mounts. I used kyb monomax for the blazer on my new DD and they're fantastic. It's dropped about 3" and it rides nice and tight without bottoming out and ruining the shock like my autocross truck did on stock application monomax.

    I'm running coilover ooverload shocks out back for a 90 chevy c10. They're about 4" shorter than stock and bolt right up once the bushing sleeves are pressed out and bushings are drilled for the 16mm mounts.i dou t most would need the overload but my truck is heavy with a flatbed and loaded tool chest so it rides decent now.
     
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  19. Erwin Merida

    Erwin Merida Toyotaholic

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    So I gather, 5 in static drop, correct geometry from djm lca + 2in drop spindle[belltech seams beefier].. note taken!
     
  20. Ponyryd

    Ponyryd Enthusiast

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    Gonna revive this thread since I bought 3” belltech blocks for my 94 x cab (say universal on the box, but looked them up for my truck so figured they’d fit) and they didn’t fit right…the hole on the block was too small for my lower plate, and the post on the top was too small for my leaf spring. I see leaf springs are the preferred method of lowering the rear, but this is a weekend cruiser build on a budget, so I figure they should work.
    Gonna try the 2” blocks and see if they’re any different.
     
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