With the intake off, I replaced the fuel filter and oil filter. When I took the fuel filter off, I decided to clean the bracket it was mounted to, and that revealed a busted freeze plug. Easily enough, I replaced it, and put in the new parts.

 

and my head, after a bit of cleaning:

 

Passed the smog test yesterday! Now I'm working on the interior a bit.

 

Totally sweet that she lives again. Well done.

 

Thanks! it feels good not only to be behind the wheel again, but to know that all that time under the hood paid off.

 

Its a good feeling and a big acomplishment

 

I was messing around with my door panels and window controls the other day, and after putting the door panels back on, I noticed that I had lost power to the power locks. The next time I drove, I realized that the light attached to the rear view mirror and the clock have both lost power as well. Are the locks, light, and clock on their own circuit that I shorted out or something?

 

I would guess that to be the CTSY or "courtesy" circuit, *sometimes* labeled on the fuse panel as CTSY. Usually a yellow fuse if I'm not mistaken.

 

ah, so courteous haha, thanks man, i'll check it out today.

 

Hey Hands_On_Henry, it sure was a fuse. I had looked at all of them in place with a flashlight, but didn't see any burnt out. I don't have the original cover with the fuses labelled, so I looked up an image and found the right fuse, and it in fact was burnt out. Thanks man! now time to continue with the door panels and such.

I'm modifying the driver's side door panel to have a manual window crank. I will still keep the electric passenger side window and electric locks. I hated having to lean across the cab to roll down the passenger side window, and I have found out how much I hate having to have the truck "on" to run the windows, and because I mostly use the driver's window, I'm gonna make it manual again..... if that makes any sense haha

 

Great News!
Keep up the good work.

 

A couple weeks ago I went a little lower with 1" blocks in the rear, and a couple t-bar turns in the front

Before:


After:


After waiting, being impatient, completely forgetting about, and then receiving in the mail 13 months after purchasing, I finally got my sensor to install my new temp gauge with. It took some research to find the one with the right resistance and the right thread pitch.



I didn't have anywhere to install the gauge yet, but did have a sample for a beer flight board laying around that had holes just the right size for a gauge.


After doing some work with my dash, I realized that my B&M shifter was broken. The lever that notches into the ratchet was completely out of wack, and rubbing the side of the ratchet, not engaged. It may be something that I can fix, but to drive in the mean time, I got a new one. There is quite a difference between my old shifter and the new one. The index points were spot on exactly the same, so I used the original cable and routing from the first setup in place, and just swapped out the shifters.


I've also got some future work planned. Possible raising the rear a bit more, after driving it for a couple weeks, I didn't like the way the blocks felt.
For a while now, I have had extra vinyl fabric to redo the door panels. Maybe finally getting a new carpet (a black one) will inspire me to go ahead and stitch up some new door panels. Also going to upholster the rear shelf.

I've got a lot of cleaning to do, and was thinking about these headlights:


They have switchback halos for the turn signals, so I was thinking of shaving the bumper turn signals, and just using the halos..... but that may just be crazy.

 

Got some work on the console done, and the vintage ivory PRND21 shift knob.

 

Things were looking a bit dingy in the cockpit, so I did some things to spruce it up, like new carpet and some of those billet heater control knobs. While I was doing the carpet job, I took out the center console, and am leaving it out for now until I can paint it or do something with it.






I've had some trouble with overheating recently, and from what I can tell, it is the fan control unit for my e-fans that has failed me. So I went about and hard wired the fans in to a switch. It is a 3 way switch, so bottom position is the driver's side fan (which blows over the turbo), middle position is off, and up is both fans on. This should do me right, just have to pay attention and remember to turn the fans on and off.

 

I've got a lot of cleaning to do, and was thinking about these headlights:
View attachment 19961

They have switchback halos for the turn signals, so I was thinking of shaving the bumper turn signals, and just using the halos..... but that may just be crazy.[/QUOTE]

I put some LED headlight in my lux last year and deleted the turn signals from the bumper, I get a lot of comments about them, all positive.
They are not a straight drop in, there is a fair amount of modification to the wiring needed but i think they were worth the effort.
Ive documented the mod here
https://www.instructables.com/id/Rat-Rod-Facelift-LED-Headlights/

 

I like those Lagunitas.

 

haha, yeah man! The temperature is creeping up, and with that black interior it gets hot in there, so I've gotta stay cool one way or another.

 

Well, I got bored and decided to do a bunch of work. I've got a job that I can bike to, and now that the weather is nice and warm, it is a great ride..... so i have time to put Betsy up on the jacks for a while.

So far I have been putting effort into tear down and cleaning. After hearing some bad valve lash recently, I went under the valve cover for some investigation, and found ANOTHER stud stripped from the head causing the valves in that region to rattle.

My oil was foam free, and my coolant didn't stink, so I don't think that any damage was done.

I've taken most things off of the block, and am in the process of cleaning them. I soaked and cleaned my valves and head chambers (which I also ported and polished). I've been redoing all of the gaskets and cleaning/polishing the tubes and hoses for coolant and oil to and from the Turbo.

I told myself that every time I tear the engine down, that I will do something new, and this time that was taking the valves out. I definitely did not have the right tools, but was able to get by. Those dang valve keepers are real tough to get back in! It was a struggle, but I got it done, and am happy with the results. I'm also glad that I removed the valves and such so that I could do the chamber porting.

I've also been going through my wire loom to clean out and re-wrap. I've found some miscelanneous wires that I'm not using, and will eliminate those. I also found some bad connections (like to my idle air valve) and am redoing or replacing those.

I'm also planning to have my fuel injectors sent out to be rebuilt.

I can't think of a better way to spend my 4th of july than workin on my truck, listening to loud music, and drinkin a few beers. Happy 4th guys!

 

My '95 drove me way out into the woods and up and down many rivers with no back up plan over the 4th without one complaint. That's what they're meant to do.

 

heck yes man! these trucks tackle quite a lot.

unfortunately, right now i'm having some issues running the engine. I got it started just fine, and timed it, but it had a real rough idle. It made me think that a cylinder wasn't firing, and i had just gotten new plugs and wires, so while I was changing my spark plugs, I went ahead and tested my compression. All cylinders were in the 110 to 120 psi, which I can't remember whether that is spec for a turbo engine, but they are all close to each other, which I take as a good sign. so then i checked each spark plug to see if they were sparking, and I noticed that when I pulled the #3 plug wire, the idle remained constantly bad, but removing any other plug wire resulted in a near dying idle.

My thoughts are to check the fuel injector. possibly swapping #3 for #2, and seeing if the problem has jumped from #3 to #2 with the injector, or if #3 stays bad.

Is there a way to measure with a volt meter whether the plug wires to the injector are firing?