Toyotaholics WW, Issue: RPM/Idle increases and holds at 1500 RPM when throttle is released. Timing and TPS readjusted. Timing was way off so brought it to 5-degrees at idle. Readjusted the throttle stop and dash pot according to manual. Work done: changed out faulty injectors to equalized OEM injectors from LCE due to loss in power (old thread). Also upgraded to a big bore throttle body. Mods: DT Headers; 8mm Magnecore spark plug wires from LCE; full LCE cold air intake (not the EFI chamber) and now the new equalized injectors.
When swapping throttle bodies did you retain the old cold-start idle valve? Can the engine be killed with the idle adjustment screw?
Thanks guy. I actually fixed the problem. The motor needed to be at 10-14 degrees while at idle without jumping the DLC1. So I readjusted the distributor and TPS again, removed the jumper and gave it some gas and she's perfect! Modz, please close this thread! Thanks.
If it doesn't die with adjustment screw, most likely something else is holding it. Possibly dash pot, or carbon build up on butterfly.. Just my guess.
Throttle plate, though your linkage may need lubed.. ive heard that especially with emissions still hooked up the intake likes to get gunked up inside, and I've personally had the surging idle with brake peddle pressed problem so many talk about which cleaning the throttle body and adjusting tps solved (don't know which as I did both at same time, but there was a lot to clean on the backside)
^^yep, the intake indeed gets caked with black soot. On my 22re truck I noticed a weird pedal feeling, which traced back to a dirty butterfly in the intake manifold.
Yep, carefully pull off intake duct from throttle body and you'll see the butterfly inside. At 150k when I got my truck it was black like a chimney. Used some cleaner spray and a toothbrush and got what I had access to. Obviously removing the whole thing and doing a full clean in the rest of the intake would be the best method - but involves taking things apart and new gaskets etc. The pedal was stiff on my truck and had a slight pop/jolt feeling like as if there was a dry spot/friction in the travel. Thought it might be the pedal itself or the throttle cable, then someone suggested pull the intake hose and look inside the TB, which was caked. Been trouble free ever since cleaning it
Thanks much appreciated I've been real busy so I haven't been able to even lift the hood up but I'll follow back up when completed I recently did a headgasket job on this motor and when I was tearing it down it had fluid looked like coolant coming out or sitting in there? Anyway I just wiped as far as I could but I'll let you know how mines turns out
Took it apart and cleaned it it was very dirty and me not really thinking I decided to mess with the dizzy before even trying to start it after cleaning now it won't start how do you you set the engine to fire on number one cyl
I think you need to rotate the engine and set it at top dead center again so you know what position to install the distributor. Usually people just pull the distributor cover and look at where it's pointing, but since you messed with it or removed it already you may have to pull the valve cover off so you can look at the rockers and try to find TDC. You've also got the timing mark you can hopefully line up. I've also heard of people pulling #1 spark plug and use your finger to plug hole and "feel" the compression stroke. Once you get it to TDC or close to, you can set your distributor so it points to around the 11-o'clock position. From there you can tune your timing settings.
Got it running cherry!! Cleaning the throttle body really helped A lot first thing I did was smoke out the garage
Okay so now I'm gonna readjust valves after getting it pretty warmed up, just to make sure all the intake vales are on the intake side right? And I measure when valve is at lowest point or 180 of the egg shape cam?
