Engine is in to see how I'm going to use the eBay mounts. They aren't the best. I think they are meant for 4wd swaps.
Engine is coming out tomorrow to flip the mounts since they didn't clear the steering bar. I need the engine to move back 2 inches.

 

Motor mounts switched from drivers side to passenger and passenger to drivers side. Moved the engine back to clear the steering rod.
Only problem is that one side can sit flush on the frame while the other isn't straight. To fix it I cut off the alignment tab or dowel that sticks out from the trucks motor mount.
Exhaust manifolds will need to be modified some more since the passenger side is still rubbing on the upper control arm.
Oil dip stick tube had to be bent to clear the eBay mounts as well.

 

Fuel lines gave me a little headache but i think i have it figured out. My truck has the 22r carb fuel lines which are 1/4" slip on inlet and return. The 1uz has a threaded inlet and 5/16" slip on return.
Went to my local hydraulic line store and got a couple of AN fittings to mate with Toyota EFI slip on adapters.


1uz inlet to 1/4" slip on.


1uz 5/16" to 1/4" return.

 

Looks like everything is coming along very well for you.
I got mine in.
EBay mounts are garbage. Enlarged the holes,swapped the mounts from left to right, engine is sitting back where it should.

AC compressor hits steering box.
I'll write in my thread later but mine is also a VVTi, which is kicking my ass.

 

Im thinking about using my trucks existing ac compressor. It uses a 3 row belt so i can center it with the existing pulleys. Hopefully will sit in its original spot on the passeneger side.

Vvti is fun but to much wiring to deal with.

 

Do not buy the ebay mounts if you are doing this swap. They have to be modified a bit not worth the hassle.

Driver side mount finally sitting flush.

Passenger side.

Core support clearance.

Firewall clearance on passenger side.

Drivers side to firewall and brake booster.

 

Thank you .. thank you
you don't happen to have any part #'s for these do you ?
I have been looking for months , and the parts people here say there is no such thing ..

 

I do not have the part numbers on hand i will look them up after labor day.

You can also ask your toyota dealerships parts department to look in their TCMC website and look under the chemicals section.

I have since changed the inlet to just the top left fittings.
1/4" slipon to 1UZ female threaded inlet. The inlet side of the fuel rail was unscrewed turned clockwise so it points towards the passenger side and runs under the plenum chamber. It is secured to the rear of the passenger side fuel rail where the wiring bracket is.

 

Looking good bud!



.

 

those fittings are Toyota parts ?

 

The inverted flair fitting for the inlet to A/N is a Toyota part. (Top Row)
002891PF0014
Female A/N to 5/16" barbed i got from my local hydraulic shop and I dont have the part numbers. (Second row)
Threaded male A/N to 1/4" slip on is a Toyota part as well. (Fourth Row)
002891PF14TP

If someone is looking for the threaded male A/N to 5/16" slip on. Not shown.
002891PF00516MP

 

ohh man .. thank you .. this will help me a lot !!


.

 

For the longest time ive been trying to find the correct plug to delete the air injection. The local "nut and bolts" stores were no help. As the plug was an "automotive thread" so i went to my local parts store and found a Dorman part number of 40082. It has 4 different pipe thread plugs. 1 was the correct size so i went back and asked if i could buy 7 more of a 1/4 plug as thats what it was labeled as on the back of the package. I was not going to buy 7 more "kits" for $8 a peice. The guy at the counter gave me a weird look and just said no without trying to help me.

This is the peice i got from the dorman kit 40082. Its the right size and thread but its hard to screw in with the square peice.


So i went on the parts stores website and found it myself but with a different head for easier installation.

 

Which nut and bolt store did you go to? Was it the one across the street from the porno store? They should have been able to help. I've used them a lot.

 

I forgot about that place! Fastenal?

I just got these delivered to my workplace.

 

Yeah I think Fastenal bought that place. It used to be called New Mexico Nut and Bolt.

 

So A/C has been removed. I'm just trying to get the truck running and this was just another small poject to fit with the 1UZ. Going to save all the parts for it and worry about it later.


Moved the battery to the driver's side.
Previous owners battery clamp bolt. Removed it and used the Ls400 bolt i kept.


Fits pretty snug.

 

Some progress on the truck. Finally torqued the flywheel bolts to spec. Routed my engine harness into the cab. Most of the battery cables are routed to the drivers side.
On the to do list
Mount Fuel pump
Fuel lines
Fuel filter
Mount a Radiator
Radiator hoses
Possible oil filter relocation
Everything that has to do with the transmission
Remove 22r alt wiring and splice 1uz wiring into the 22r plug.
Exhaust
Burn outs
Clean interior since truck has been sitting for a while
Install bottom dash panels
Oil

Alright since the truck was carbed the accelerator cable is a lot shorter then the ones for efi trucks. So i was able to keep it. I had the ls400 cable but i needed to enlarge the hole on the firewall to make it work.

I kept a lot of stuff from the donor car. More then i should have I found a bracket that was perfect for the 22r accelerater cable.

Not the final position it will be in but its mounted. The engine needs to come forward 2 inches and reinforce the bracket on the drivers side so it doesnt sag while my foot is the the pedal.

Looks centered to me (left side of picture you can see the cable)

 

New bracket. This bracket does not flex while pedal is pressed to the floor.

 

Used some old intake pieces to mock up a hot air intake. Going to eventually cut up the passenger side and move washer reservoir to do it right.