Truck ran fine until I did the swap.. I used extended battery cables from orileys for pos/neg and thick amp wire for fuse box to pos cable. Drives fine all lights work no flickering with lights. Just won't idle????

 

I would look closer to the intake swap than the battery as for your idle problem..
22re correct?
are we talking air intake or intake manifold?

 

I'll take vacuum leak for $500 Alex.

 

Yes 22re.. And air intake swap

 

Did you try to extend the harness or did you just deloom it and reloom to the new location?

I disagree that it's a vacuum leak. A post-maf leak or a maf wiring issue seems much more likely. There would have been no reason to touch any vacuum lines while doing the battery/intake swap.

 

The harness was long enough to reach the other side. No cutting or splicing

 

Good, that's the best way to do it. I have seen some people cut and splice the harness which seems crazy to me.

I am leaning towards a post-maf leak that is bad enough to cause the maf to close fully at idle and kill the fuel pump. Did you reuse the old intake boot or did you replace it?

 

If it was 84-88 the harness has to be cut and spliced. 89-95 just has to be split out of the loom and moved. Everything about the wiring of the later stuff is better and easier to deal with.


Is the AFM still level or did you mount it at an odd angle? I've seen them pointed down and the weight of the air door made the computer go lean and kill the rig at idle.

 

Maf is level.. I bought a 90degree intake pipe (old air intake boot ripped) I think I'll check and see if there's leaks on the intake pipe or couplers

 

Fixed it! It was a leak post maf. Thanks aaron sk

 

Ahh, that makes sense. I have never tried this swap on a second-gen truck.

Glad to hear you got it figured out!