They didn't ask me to be specific in the request so I wasn't, if I need a reason it will be for my compressor to air up my 5 year olds bike tires.

 

Some places offer a rebuild kit for the clutch master but the whole unit should be under $20 brand new anyway.


I'd be looking into 4x fenders for the front and a 78ish rear axle so the wheels clear nicely with little effort.

 

I have 84-88 4wd fenders and a 53" wide 74-78 hilux G code axle. Could bring both down if ya ever need a hand. I need a road trip lol. Plus I have some property I bought outside Bakersfield I wanna finally check out lol.

As for the master get a new one. They're cheap and easy swap. Get a new clutch slave too so you bleed it out once.

 

For now I want to stick with stock equipment, I am going with different wheels when I do bag it. I admire the function but don't really like the look of 4wd fenders and a suitable wheel choice seems easier. I think if I keep this thing long enough it will get an LS motor which will need a more open engine bay with custom inner fenders and a stronger rear-end.

I'm glad you mentioned the slave as I should replace it as well.

 

You won't get enough traction to hurt G code rear end.


Wheels with less backspacing will allow for more space under the hood if you cut out the inner fenders. Although the LS should clear them just fine as is.

I've thought about switching back to 2x fenders and swapping the jap bed off of my parts truck onto the 84 which would make my 5" backspaced 15x8's match up perfectly but I'm going to go from a 195/60 to something closer to a 225/45 up front and probably something along the lines of a 295/50/15 out back to fill the void.

 

Yeah I don't think the 175/55 will hold traction no matter what, I have 3.75" backspace right now. Won't be hard to go higher bs on the next rims although I can tuck the front nicely!

 

If your motor ends up anything like mine, you will need some more tire than those smart car tires I have 215/45/17 rears and any corner or curve at 4k+ RPM in 2nd or 3rd gear boils them down. Can't dump the clutch in 1st above 2000 rpm. So keep that in mind depending how crazy you build that 22r.

 

I have a carb kit and float on order and an engine gasket set already, that is probably the extent of mods to the 22r I will do especially with smog here. It is too tempting to LS swap this thing eventually. Then tires become a huge factor, no more stretched smarts

Coworkers are whining about the mustang being fast enough but I want a bagged mini monster too, needs more oomf for traffic

 

New pic at work



Installed Clutch MC and Slave this morning, cranked my torsions up two more full turns and adjusted drivers side tie-rod to bring my alignment closer to 0 toe and get my steering wheel closer to centered when driving straight.

Before today the steering wheel was off to the left and lined up with the turn-signal cancellation tab inside, sometimes I couldn't activate my turn-signal or it would trip off right away if the wheel moved at all.

Made it to work without slowing down but one time and didn't scrape at all! I was worried it would end up too high but it settle back to about where it was but with more preload on the bars. Still gotta do shocks f/r and rear springs, parts are sitting at home.

 

Looks good man...who's 200 convertible is that?

 

Sitting really nice now.

 

Thanks! 200 is someone at work, don't know exactly who.

Thanks! I am happy so far.

 

It seems I need a real camera, this turned out mostly crap. Its too bright around here for good pics...

 

almost makes me wish i got a long bed lol

 

I love the longbed, I always end up with longbed pickups by pure chance and the toyota actually looks good and functions well. First truck I've had that I can fit my bikes in with the gate up.

 

Got some more vacuum lines replaced and re-did the timing, new timing light and hand vacuum pump are super helpful. Tested the dizzy vacuum advance actuator and both sides are blown which is why it doesn't have any top end. Ordered that today, ordered dizzy cap, rotor, wires, and plugs yesterday. Did an oil change as well and being as the service tag in the window says it was due 30,000 miles ago I am going to change it again in about 500 miles!

Didn't have the motivation to install shocks or my rear springs today, it rides pretty good now and I keep forgetting to get some 1" blocks to get me to 4" drop in the rear.

I feel like it could pass emissions with the vacuum advance fixed and the little tune-up stuff done, I may finally get it tested then.

 

I have a long bed even though I prefer short beds. But when you buy end-of-model-year leftovers, you don't have much choice. All that were left by OctoberNovember 1988 were base long beds and fully optioned XtraCabs, which I could not afford at the time. But I agree, over the years, I often found myself in situations were having the long bed was a great advantage...

Your truck's looking good.

 

Thanks man!

 

Plugs, wires, dizzy cap, rotor and vacuum advance actuator installed! Its driving pretty good, still playing with timing to get best power. I have a carb rebuild kit but might not install unless I fail smog, it runs good so far as I can tell.