Alright guys, after months of just basic maintenance and reapairs, it's time... I'm getting a new welder for Christmas. After about 3 years of not having anything from my old shop I've decided to start my collection of tools again Anyways looking for some good suspension pics and 4 link pics not sure if I want to go triangulated or with a pan hard bar. Also debating still on a coil over static setup or bags. Would like to have at least some work done to the truck to bring out to lay'd out 2014. Show me what you run or buddies are running. Thanks in advance guys and gals
So I've had my set up for more than a few years,after a lot of research,Tri-4 link was the way to go. Was going to do a 6-link,but where I excited the exhaust made that not do able! Next would have been a Watts link, a pan-hard -bar just has too much side play for me!! Bags over the axle ride to hard, convoluted bags don't have much travel on compression or up. Sleeve bags give you all that you need,& ride very well in front or behind the axle!
Nice set up you got there TruckAction, I love this site but its a love hate relationship since alot of trucks are bagged here. When I see everyones truck thats bagged I get jealous, and want one. Would love to bag my current truck, but then she will never get finished. Does the notch have to be that big to lay frame, or is it preference. Thnx.
Thanks for the comment! Most of the notch kits are 8''. I used a 8 piece one from CanDo ,as you can lay weld inside which makes it much stronger!
One more question based on the current posts. On truck actions setup it looks to be all parallel but on lotoy's setup the top bar looks to be angled down. Isn't there very little play when it comes to angles? As in axel roll and things like that while braking and accelerating? I know off-road and drag race 4 links use different angles on their links to gain better traction and breaking. Hope that isn't to confusing. :/ on my phone at work typing this comment.
Theres tons of pic in my build thread, and in under construction 93's...basically the same. Triangulated 4 link..
Been going through em. I tried to hit you up in a text a few weeks back to see if you could send me some pics but I seen you got a new number. Might have to hit you up next time I'm down that way. Was in Milner about 2 weeks ago dong some work.
that's what I thought. One more question, does angle on triangulated 4 links matter? Like off the rear dif to the frame. Also would like to to see some detailed pics of notches. Just want to see the welding patterns and how to cap the frame back off. Again thank you for all the info so far.
Not that I know of! But the bar lengths make a difference! Shorter bars move the axle front to rear more than longer bars,a problem if you have a one piece drive line! I have a two piece drive line ,thus where I mounded upper bars ( shorter than the lowers ) wasn't a problem!
The more angle you can get on the triangulated links, the better. More angle allows the side load during turns to be transmitted into the chassis more efficiently, placing less stress on those components. However, the steeper the angle, the shorter the effective radius of those links in relation to the axle, and depending on the length of the parallel lower links, will affect pinion angle.
Would running something like adjustable 4link ends be a better way to go in case I wanted to adjust ride height later down the road? Wanted to know who all here run these and their thoughts on how secure they are and dependable.
All 4 bars should be adjustable at one end at lest. I used a kit from Gravity Werx & shorten two of the bars!
You are always better off using bushing rod ends rather than metal on metal. Teflon coated rod ends are good for a dedicated offroad setup or drag car, but the road noise transmitted is pretty harsh and they wear out quicker. The first set you show look like cheap rod ends with no teflon inserts, which are the worst out of all the options.
Thanks guys, and yah Litneon I agree with what you said about the first set, was more just showing for reference. I actually like the lower kit better and as TRUCK ACTION said I can shorten them if needed during fab.
As said above go with the poly bushing ends. My friend runs all heims on his frontier, and while there isn't any play in them, the road noise is very noticeable. We plan to back half the truck and swap to poly bushings sometime before summer.
If you're on the cheap, Toyota 4 runners from 90-95 have 4 links with great lower bars. Previa minivans have even better lower bars. I have a pair of each to run on my 78. Previa bars have a great rubber flex pivot joint. Pretty slick for stock. Non adjustable but by cutting off one end and changing it that can be modified. Having adjustable bars lets you change pinion angles, slight wheelbase (therefore driveline plunge) and other specs that can be tweaked for the best ride or launch from a stop.