Hey I'm having some trouble finding a D.I.Y. on front wheel bearing replacement for an 88 2wd. My driver side is bad and its making me pull my hair

I just want to know if I need any special puller tool or anything like that.. if these are stubborn to come out. I have never changed barrings before so don't know what to expect

But also I understand there are 2 barrings to replace? one that is a "cone and cup" and one that looks like a regular barring to me..

I want to have everything I need to so i can knock it down less than a day.

When my yota is stuck, my life is stuck.

 

get inner and outter bearings, and your wheel seal. you will need a tub of good bearing grease.

you will start off by taking the wheel off, once off you will see the little center bearing cap. take some pliers and remove it. under there, you will see a cotter pin holding in the lock washer. remove the pin, washer follows. remove the nut holding in the hub assembly, shouldnt be too snug, and i believe is a 27mm socket thats required. once that is removed, put your thumb over the hub snout so the washer and bearing dont come flying out and pull the whole rotor/hub assembly out.

once pulled, you will want to flip your hub over so the outter bearing and washer come out in your hand. you will also notice once you flip the hub and see the inner side, the wheel seal is there. yank it off, pull the inner bearing out.

take your NEW inner bearing in one hand, your tub o wheel bearing grease and smere the grease onto the new bearing packing it in as best you can into all the rollers and crevices you see, get it nice n packed. get more grease and pack it in to the hub center leaving only enough room for the spindle to run through it. place the new bearing in on the inner side of the hub and pack in more grease. get your wheel seal and lightly tap it into place and make sure its flat and even on the hub.

flip your hub assembly over, do the same to the outter bearing as you did with the inner and pack it with grease. place it into the hub assembly and with one thumb holding it in place, slide the whole assembly back onto the spindle. grab the washer with the notch in it, line it up to the spindle, slide it on, grab the spindle nut and thread it into place.

make sure your hub assembly seats properly onto the spindle. once hand tight, rotate the hub and spin a few times forward and backwards... re snug the spindle nut. grab the socket with a ratchet and lightly snug down the nut... REMEMBER it dont have to be tight as it still needs to spin! you should feel some drag when rotating the hub assembly but not too much. (too little drag and it'll be loose, to tight and you'll eat up the bearings)

place the lock washer over the nut, run the pin through, place cap back on and yer done.

if you need a visual, look up youtube along the lines of "2wd toyota pickup barings" and should come up with a few different videos to run you through it too.

 

When i got my new bearings they came with new races.... I thought putting a new bearing in an old race could cause premature failure?

I guess it depends on how bad the old ones are?

 

that was very helpful thank you

 

my bad, yes.. the races do come with some of the bearings but ive found that the original races hold up really well unless something detrimental just happens and chews them up horribly.

you're welcome bud

 

I took them out but the bearings and inspected them and everything seams fine? I even rolled it with out the brake caliper and it was smooth and felt perfect.

I dont know what else could be causing my truck to handle the way it does. In my mind it had to be the bearing, it doesnt vibrate like crazy and I had 2 shops look at it.

I get a creak sound in the driver side wheel area when I apply the brakes and a slight knock sometimes in a slow turn. other than that it just vibrates slightly but handles "alright"

it just feels like im going a 110 when Im going 65

i replaced the pads, the upper bushings and sway bar bushings, tires are new, everything was aligned and balanced. I dont know what it is.

one shop told me the ball joints are fine and the brakes probably make that sound

the other didnt say anything, only that it was a "pain in the ass" to do the alignment