Has anyone ever had troubles with burning oil through your pcv valve? Ever since I switched carbs to my weber I've been getting puffs of oil smoke. I tied my pcv valve in with the brake booster vacuum line like people suggested. I think it just sucks some through the hose after being able to collect for a second.

It smokes a little when starting and after sitting for a second, like at stop lights. I don't think it constantly burns it, and I can't see it when I rev it a couple times.

Any thoughts are appreciated!

 

Leave your PCv either vented to the atmosphere via a small filter in place of the valve or run your PCv hose directly to the weber filter housing via the small hole in the bottom plate the filter sits on if it doesn't have one drill a hole and route you a new hose to it

Nothing should ever be tied into the brake booster vac supply line ..specially a vacuum operated PCv system or even a non vacuum Cv systems

Smoking on start up can be normal we're and tear on valves guides and piston rings
See if it stops after you re do your Pcv system

 

I'll try to use the bottom plate hole, otherwise I'll just get a small filter.

I'm hoping it's not anything inside the motor. Don't have time or funds to build a motor while having my truck down.

I was told tapping into the break booster vacuum was fine by a 35+ year Toyota mechanic..

 

Just be easy on the motor .maybe play around with different weight oils

As far as tapping the brake booster line ..it's not a good practice from a safety standpoint . Pretty much every car has a dedicated brake booster vacuum line for fast response and to single out possible failures . If you don't have emissions try sticking a filter on there . Gives it a clean look

 

Play easy?! Heck I do 8k rmp shifts!

Not really. 5k at most.

As far as a filter, I don't have any emissions. No inspections, no tests, no problems. I'll probably just put on a filter for the easy factor.

 

Yea do the filter .. It looks better without all those hoses and what not .....give her hell till she blows !!

 

Its nice to not have a lot of hoses. After swapping to a weber i can actually replace the starter and oil filter from the top.

I pulled out the PCV and just let it sit there and it looked like it wasnt blowing any puffs, not that it left big clouds but i could see a little, and I couldnt with the pcv out.

 

There more effective on Efi engines than they are carb motors ..I just have to hoses connected to my valve cover that run to a catch can the can has been on my truck for six years and has nothin in it to this day just a tad bit of goo from air circulation ...Pcv is more of a emissions thing than a crank ventaltion these days .. Back in the day cars just ran mushroom filters on the valve covers .. Until AL gore syndrome started

 

In my case, i do worse with one! At least I think...

 

is the hole on bottom plate the one with a white elbow connected to it? Because I am having the same problems on my 84.

 

I'm guessing you have a stock carb? I think it's the right one.
The white elbow?? Is the elbow sticking out of the valve cover about 3/4 of the way back?

A picture would help a lot!

 

Nah it's 32/36 weber. Yea I figured a pic would help. I have a few just not at comp. but I also didnt wanna thread jack. Lol.

 

My weber did come with the elbow . That connects to the filter housing it's for the Pcv system if you choose to connect it .. I personally don't like it connected cause it can dirty up a carb from top to bottom

 

So what did you connect ur pcv to? My is just hanging and I'm getting the same symptoms first80 describes.

 

I'm changing mine to a filter breather. Seamed to fix the problem if I pulled out the pcv from the valve cover and just had a hole..

 

So we don't need the pcv? I was told a breather filter will have oil all the valve cover.

 

you really dont need the pcv. When i took mine out there wasnt any oil getting on the valve cover.

 

Na Pcv isn't really needed unless your motor has a lot of blow buy in witch case it's dead anyway the crankcase will vent itself naturally ... Or you can just make a new hose and run it to the filter housing

You can take the small little filters and stick them on the valve cover over time if it creates a little residue ..you can stuff a small little peace of steal wool inside the filters to help absorb and control the oil mist ...don't jam it full just a tad bit let it breath ...

Engine studies actually shown that positive pressure in the crank case helps reduce oil foaming around the crank ..in high performance applications .. Go figure

 

Isn't that the point of having a crank scraper? Keeps the excess oil in the pan, helps reduce parasitic drag and lessens the foam..

And too much pressure in the case will cause you to blow seals and such

 

Pressure won't increase to a level were you can actually blow out a seal that's more of a here say expression there simply to sandwiched between to metal surfaces to be blown out buy 3 psi of pressure or less ...and crank scrapers are effective if there aftermarket peaces the oem ones are not as efficient on motors that have them my lt1 350 crank scrapper is a joke ...

If I Rember there article the pressure kept the foaming down to a minimum . This was for baja motors that do a lot of bouncing .kinda like putting your hand over a beer to pop the suds ..analogy