ya the translation is kinda wonky whole manual is here Owners Manual Photos by CB_shonuff | Photobucket
Page 6 and 7 of this thread have the shift pattern, it was very common on the hiace van not to be able to get reverse due to the little plastic bushes in the linkages eventually brake and fall out and thus causing the same issue. On the stout they never had plastic bushes and so how to solve your issue is simple adjustment, it is a simple fix easier with assistance. When someone uses the shifter look at the selectors in the engine bay and get your assistant to shift between the gates pushing down and lifting back up towards 1st and 2nd and the linkage between the gearbox/transmission and the column can be adjusted so reverse will be roughly where 4th was. So often when transmission/gearbox has been out for some reason such as clutch replacement or just a complete engine transmission has been out when the linkage is removed from the gearbox they get twisted once twice or a few times or even bent slightly and thus reverse. The brake wheel cylinders can be found on ebay for the rk101 as they are the same as 40 series landcruisers, just be prepared for the price Edit After a photo the selector on top of the gearbox if pushed toward the back allows the one on the side to select between 1st n 2nd when in neutral position n the selector on top if moved forward toward the bell housing allows the selector on the side to do 3rd and 4th, when the side selector is back in neutral the top selector with increased force is moved forward further allows reverse to be slected on the side. So if the gear shift bottoms out on the column before reverse gate can be selected fully no reverse and yet it is the selector on the gearbox that prevents the shifter on the column from being able to top out when pulling the shifter toward the steering wheel
anyone .... trying to create some more room in egine bay, barke booster takes up majority of it is there any alternative,smaller, modern version that will be compatiable with my 76 stout ? do i even need the brake booster servo ? to re condiion is about expensive and would like to avoid doing so plus its a less cluttered/cleaner engine bay im after
the late 70's/early 80's datsun booster is pretty tiny, but i dont know how bolt on that would be. there is an obscene amount of room inside the fender and the inner fenders are just panels. wouldnt be that hard to re angle them to give a bit more room.
We are required to have a brake booster servo if one was fitted standard factory, as the rk101 share brake parts with the 40 series landcruiser there are kits available for them
as an australian always make sure if your plans are legal, otherwise if you illegally modify and in event of an accident you are in the wrong it can all be your fault. i speak through experience and as a 15 year old was hit by a man on a motorbike (bush track head on), as the keys were in the ignition and i was sitting in the drivers seat i was classed as driving (not in motion), it was only the fact he booked himself out of hospital early (broke most bones on his right side) that i do not have 30% of my income given to him, so i am an advocate for doing things the legal way as i was 23 when i was finally cleared of all charges. http://www.infrastructure.gov.au/roads/vehicle_regulation/bulletin/pdf/NCOP5_Section_LG_Brakes_V2_01Jan2011.pdf and the full national codes http://www.infrastructure.gov.au/roads/vehicle_regulation/bulletin/vsb_ncop.aspx
back again with more questions going to try & fit new exaust & muffler this easter weekend noitice gaskets are all done&dusted (f#ked) where exhaust attaches to exhaust manifold what,s the likely hood of finding new ones
If you mean the two pipe flange gasket then they are a standard item and if so go ebay.com.au toyota stout
whysmee- the adapter and booster you are showing in earlier post. That is not a fj40 master cylinder, appears to be a bit newer.... do you know where it came from? the adapter, it is around somewhere I recall you posted somewhere where it came from. I am awaiting discs so will likely need to upgrade at that time and may as well start compiling parts! thanks for your assistance again!
If I remember correctly it was a supra master and booster, I have had this photo for a few years so the web site it came from?
May have asked this before wondering if rust in/under dash would affect getting roadworthy/ registration I'm sure each state has their own rules but some general feed back would be good
I do not think it should as it is not structural nor is it cosmetic and I have actually thought of on my 1962 is opening that section up so it is easier to rust treat as it is not possible otherwise
Is yours the section under dash where air vent opening is... opening has been siliconed up Lever does not open it any more, would like to find new seal & get working again... I to was think of pulling out dash & just cutting out rusty parts
The other question I forgot to ask... When I use choke to start car and push back in after a few minutes It gets stuck any tips for getting choke to return to correct position Thanks
I had to remove about two inches of dust from in there and combine that with condensation, so I am still contemplating cutting the bulk out and just fitting some flat bracing if needed
I never use a choke apart from on small engines and near always disconnect them opting for the few pumps of the throttle pedal if it dose not start straight up and a couple more pumps if it starts to struggle. Going back when I had my 1969 dyna 5r I was at walcha nsw and in the morning it was minus 10, at that point it was a little temperamental to start and that was the only time ever conditions were suited to the use of a choke otherwise I would think of a vacuum leak if you require the use of a choke
information... had a stout tub tray lined up but slipped throught my hands (arrghhhhh) these are hard to come by anyone know if there is a similar less rare tub tray/styleside tray i could drop on my 76 stout perhaps from another year toyota thanks