That's crazy high oil psi! Isn't stock around 4 or 5 psi?
For now, I'm just doing the Lexus AFM and the 550 fuel injectors...along with the other simple things to support them. I don't know what the SFAC is...I'm not savvy when it comes to acronyms.
I just want to get it running healthy (as cheaply as possible) and then go back and add some more things if I feel it needs it.

 

You need another bar (about the same size as the existing link bar) to partially weld onto the drag link BEFORE you cut the old section out. Then you can gusset the outsides to make it stronger. You'll also have to cut off the tab that the steering damper bolts to and re-weld it on.....IF you plan on keeping it.

Make sure you do some measurements before you weld it up. You need to make sure it'll clear the oil pan, etc.

 

Cool, thanks for the info. I keep making notes incase I do the swap one day.

 

yup stock is udder **** cold it suppost to be about 15 on a real gauge then drop to 5 hot


higher the persure better off you are keeping the oil wedge between the baring on the crank shaft and don't worry the ct26 will be fine at thous levels

thus why lowering your pick up is a good idea and ditching the crappy oil cooler system that the 7mgte has


safc/neo is apexi fuel computer very simple to use and will in-cress gas mailge


this is the neo AFC NEO - Electronics APEX Integration

the sfac2 is the older one but i liek it more since it has engine knock viewing on it

 

Great info, thanks! This is the first I've really thought about the electronic tuning side of this swap.

On something like what I'm building, would I be better getting the AFC NEO or trying to find a SFAC 2? The easier it is to tune and the more warnings it'll give me would be best. Also, I need it to be easy to wire in because I've got enough wiring to figure out as it is now.

 

Easiest is stand alone. That was what I just found out about. Had a piggy back and that worked good but the Map senor went bad in my MAPECU and it went bad from there trying to trouble shoot it.

 

I've heard about a stand alone before, but I don't really know what it is. What kind of module is it (pics would be great) and what do I need to add/ take out to get it to work?
Money is a big factor unfortunately. I've got a house, wife, daughter, and one on the way to pay for, so money is tight for a while.

Thanks for the great info guys! I love this website!

 

A standalone replaces your entire ECU and allows you to do all the tuning on it. A full standalone is more expensive but the best way to go (how much they cost for a 7m I am unsure of). The other way I would recommend would be to go piggy back. I am familiar with the MAPECU (there are 3 different variants) the standard MAP ECU 1 is what I was running and you can pick one up for cheap used. They have a good amount of info on how to wire them in just have to do some searching. Each variant has different features as well if you just google mapecu it will pull up their page.

 

My main concern is this is my first full engine build. I gutted a non running Supra and started rebuilding the motor for the truck I'm putting it in. I'm leery that I might not be able this thing running with just the simple upgrades I've done already let alone with an engine management system that I have to tune on top of that.
What's a good mix of simple, cheap, and reliable?

 

I would start by just getting it running on the stock ECU then. From then on you can add a piggy back to change the fuel tables and suck for more power but start with getting it running on the stock ECU first off then. (Long as the ECU is in good working order...)

 

Good, I'm glad to hear that. I hope my ECU works!

Any tips on what pressure to run the fuel when I go to start it up?

 

I know the 2jz requirements not the 7m ones. I did find that they say somewhere between 33-40 psi. I would do further searching to verify that this is true.

 

I appreciate the info.

I'll check supramania.com and see what they have to say. Only problem with them though, everyone is a know it all snob and they'll make you feel like a jerk if you ask a question you were "supposed" to know.

 

You should be able to find a post that has the info needed. That way you dont have to ask any questions

 

stand alone are great but some time's well not worth the hassle


it's when you start to change alot of key things ei big cam shafts bigger turbo's running meth injection vavles bla blaa blaa


plus a stand alone is only good as it's tunner


any one i mean any one can tune a sfac plsu an ecu will lern around the new curve it has gotten any way since it learns


tune sfac can be done in like 4 to 5 pulls were as a good tune on stand alone takes about 10 plus easy


there is only one thing the more fule you take out it affects the map timing since you cheating the signal


so you pull fule timing goes up you add fuel timing goes down

 

Ok, so you think a SFAC (super flow air controller) would be the way to start building this to begin with?...or can I add it in later after I get it running?
My main goal is to have a reliable truck that I could drive anywhere without worry.

Thanks for the help!

 

you can get it running with 550 and a lex it will drive fine may be little bit of gas hog but not that bad
and have cap off at 17 psi of boost before fuel cut if I remember right in less you messing with the afm screw then ya can raise it to about 25 psi to 30 in some case's

sfac will enable you to pull fuel to make it better on fuel and improve on power it can be added at any time

 

Hell yeah, that's the answer I was looking for. Thanks

I guess I need a boost controller of some sort in the beginning though. That'll be another thing to have to figure out.

 

lol Just use washers lol cost's nothing

if running a stock ct26


modded one at 20 psi I run a mbc or ebc so I could turn it down but we all knwo ya never turn it down any way

 

Can you run them on that much boost with stock internals and not blow the living balls out of the motor?