I kept messing with my timing and finally just took it all apart lol. Removed valve cover, #1 plug and distributor cap. Put a 19mm socket on the crank and a screwdriver in the #1 cylinder. Lined up the timing chain gear point just left of the matching mark on the rockers. And verified I was at tech for Crank was now set at 0 btdc but my distributor was at plug #2 so it way way off. Re-stabbed the distributor and been running smooth ever since.

 

ya. did all that. idk, i think something else is going on. it will run fine when cold, but after warmed up or driven for a little it would stumble n run ruff, sounds like it wants to die out. i made sure all the "timing" was on. thanks for the input

 

here were some pics of the bed. im undecided on whether or not to "bondo" it or try n swap the bed with another better looking one. but i know thats on the back burner for now. first i have to make sure it runs good. here are a few pics of the bed.

 

Bed itself doesn't look bad but I'd get a new tailgate.

 

first mod - 2in drop blocks.
also, i heard that if u remove one leaf it will make the ride softer (not bouncy) -true?

also, i did the lower ball joint flip. didnt want to add washers but i had to cuz there was a weld (on the LCA) that got in the way of the ball joint mount that wouldnt allow it to sit flush with the LCA. and cranked the torsion bars. measured at center line of front wheel to ground : RF 26in LF 26.5in

 

also, had a buddy re-key the truck. new ign cylinder, door locks, n fuel door.

 

so decided to do compression test n check valve adjustment. compression is solid, about 165-170 psi on all 4. I pulled valve cover to make sure im getting all timing marks correct. i seen a strange black piece of plastic laying right below the nose gear (on cam) for the distributor. yup the guides were smashed! was barely hanging on. also, there was alot of slack in the chain. i can lift it off the gear almost the whole way around. so i said shmush it! time for open-heart surgery, pulled the front cover n all the parts, good thing too. seen a few things that need replacing.

inside cover, looks like Marianas trench! X2 when they say a streched chain, they def mean a stretched chain! no joke, i literally pulled on the chain n i can see it, like its about to snap. o well, good thing i already ordered the LCE dual chain conversion kit!


... yup those Were the guides (wats left of them) n the tensioner. i pulled the pan n cleaned it out. might as well do it rite the whole way, i figured the oil filter's got a hard enuf job, now adding plastic n metal to it wont do either of us any good. its just an oil pan.

 

UPDATE: damn. finally got my LCE timing kit!! already got most of the build done 70%. just need to bolt up a few more things n adjust valves n wat not. fresh oil n a little seafoam for some bottom end cleaning. hopefully there is nothing else wrong. didnt take too many pics of new internals but the kit was way cool.

 

How hard was it to do the timing chain swap?

 

not hard. only tricky thing was asking my buddy about when/where to use FIPG with the gaskets to help prevent future oil leaks (on the "common" leak areas/points). also matching up the correct bolts to bolt holes, they are all different lengths.

some advice -before installing part with gasket, make sure all the bolts are in they'r right location! lol i had to swap out a few. n the timing kit comes with a new bolt installation kit, but i tried to use the OEM stuff, on some items i HAD to use OEM cuz the provided bolts would not work.

 

Right on, thanks for the heads up!

 

Yeah also heads up the timming cover bolts like the water pump size 10' are easy to break off inside the block so just take your time when removing them.

 

for example, if u have A/C, the LCE bolts will NOT work, they are too short. had to use the OEM bolts cuz the bracket support for the compressor goes over the cover- need the longer OEM bolts.

??? the only 10mm bolts i seen were for the water pump.... the cover bolts are either 12 or 14 mm. is this correct? or maybe i used the wrong ones lol guess ill find out the hard way.

FYI, i used OEM bolts for the chain tensioner. used LCE bolts for the guides, they were a shorter, hex bolt design n are required to be used wen installing new metal guides.

 

Correct but I was think you have to take off the water pump but I forgot theres like one or two that go through the water pump into the block. Just giving you heads up because I've broken them of in the block before and it was a bitch getting them out

 

cool cool. ya its the long 12mm bolt through the water pump. also there is one bolt that must be a specific size that bolts into the oil pump. its a 12 mm, it bolts directly on to the cover - WARNING -if it is too long, it may interfere with chain/guides/tensioner etc. just saying.

anyways.... so i got a small "issue" - when installing new parts -i made sure to check timing on chain and distributor, cam, etc, valve adjust, all that. its running about 15deg BTC according to timing mark on crank. Problem - on idle, it stumbles, runs ruff, like i have a race cam or something. like its almost gonna die out. BUT, when i take off, accelerate -it runs like a champ. no miss, no bogging. its only at idle. any ideas? IAC??? MAF?? injectors??

 

also... just put in newly painted "wrinkle-black" powder coat valve cover. looks super cherry IMO. was wondering wat cool tips are there for relocating/placing the VSV's that are on the top plate that bolt ontop the valve cover?

 

some pics of the LCE timing kit. sorry dont have alot of the install process, cuz i was trying to focus n get everything sealed n use the correct bolts n stuff. N my "wrinkle-black" powder coated valve cover.

 

Ive also accidentally tightened down that tensioner to hard and it got stuck on me.I had to waste a brand new timming gaskett.Test for a bad cylinder by pulling plugs one by with the motor running.If sound and roughness gets worse good cylinder if no change thats the bad cylinder.Dont get shocked it sucks. Usually means bent valve. Other than that recheck all vacume lines

 

... cool thanks chelu. if a valve was bent, would compression be bad...? i already checked compression, its all good 170-165psi

just another question. i replaced spark plugs (had Delco originally) now i put in factory Denso -is still good or do i actually need NGK?

 

Still good on the spark plugs.If it was a bent valve you would NOT get a good compression reading because it would be leaking out thru the valve that is not sitting.Thats just a backyard quick test if no compression tester.It was normal before no right because we thought maybe the chain jumped? Also 15 deg btdc is pretty high it think efi should be around 8 deg.I always put cam sprocket mark just a butt hair to the left of the mark on the rocker arm assy. and the main at 0.