Can somebody help me with a 20r carb ...the carb plate is loose and of feels that something is missing. Can it be the choke thermostat ..the truck sometimes starts good and it runs good but there's times that it dies and I have to give it gas till gets to a point that it will stay running without me giving it gas...
mine was doing the same thing - so i'm rebuilding the whole carb. I'm not sure if it's going to solve the cold-start issue but i'll get back to you about it. you might want to get a carb kit ($22-28) and remove/inspect the choke thermo (you should be able to do it without removing the carb) and make sure the diaphragm isn't ruptured or the spring broken. I noticed that almost all of the diaphragms on my carb sound "baggy" when I depress them so I'm thinking about replacing them all. Could be something like that if it's been a long time since it was overhauled. autozone's pretty good with part selection for cars if you sign up - and a carb kit will have a diagram you can use as reference when searching for parts.
Its being like two years since I did the overhauled on the carb...and the last time I check the choke thermostat yje spring in it wasn't broken and I tried to adjust it and it did work good for some time even the plate at carb was working properly but now its being doing every now and then....you know where I might find a choke thermostat
you know.. i just realized something.. let me upload a pic and 'splain. It might be the spring if that top plate on the air horn is loose. it's the spring inside the choke thermo that actuates the plate to begin with.. so if it's loose, it's either the spring, the lever that connects to the choke plate rod, the screw holding the lever in place to the choke plate rod (loose), or a break in the rod itself. i'd say take it apart and look at it and google for a new choke thermo if you find a break. I thought autozone had one for sale but there are no purchase options available right now.. it might take a while but another alternative is to search on toyotapartseast.com and see if you can find it there. keep me posted.. i'll try to find some more options from here tomorrow.
I tried to replicate the symptoms you're having today and found that when the choke thermostat is turned too far open (towards you with the choke thermostat on the left) the spring tension is lost and the choke flap goes limp. have you tried adjusting the choke alignment? With the choke thermostat housing on your left, loosen the 3 screws and turn it away from you until the center marks line up, or you feel the tension return.
Cibarius I already tried all that but still is lil loose ..the choke thermostat is not broken ...don't know what to do any more..
From what I remember I don't think it is.. with a fitting like that there are 2 possible orientations, 1 of which won't work. have you checked to make sure the screws holding the choke plate onto the control rod are seated and tight? (worth a shot any way lol)
Last weekend I took the choke thermostat off and tried to adjusted and its being running ok...oh and start up ok for now I hope stay like that..
Choke butterfly plate Hi, On some of my auto chokes they have gotten frozen/ stuck in place so they would not close, It is easy to see a choke work with the top of the air filter top removed. When cold , you can open the throttle while looking at the choke butterfly plate, It should snap closed and be springy it you poke it open with your finger.. Lubing it will help or cleaning the shaft if gummed up. . When the throttle is first open ,, the choke should close and the high idle speed kicked up. Then when the motor is started it should stay that way for a while and then as you tap the throttle it should close in increments as the motor warms up with repeated taps on the thr0ttle. A tach is nice , the one on a dwell gauge is great to use. I ran wires thru the firewall so I could use it while driving my 3RC and learned a lot about the RPM I was shifting at.
