See my post under New Alternator.

 

Got frame primered today, been working on it all week tearing down, prep, sand, mud, sand, then today got it primed, got the heaters on it and gonna paint it tomorrow. See pics in my build thread.

Click link for my build thread and go to last page.

Peace out ya'll have a good night.

 

Coat hangers make GREAT replacement seat rail track release cables!

Also, the Leatherman Crunch is one of the greatest tools ever!



Buckets... **** Yeah!

 

Painted frame...see build thread.

 

did the 7" round headlight conversion Finally!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

Went to take the drivers side compressor check valve loose from the air tank on the truck, and it busted. Now it will be another 3-5 days before I can get back to work on it. NO ONE has these stupid 5 dollar check valves locally. Not even the big rig parts warehouses...

 

replaced the Kumho Solus SP4? 215/60/16's in the rear with some Bridgestone something something 215/60/16's today

 

got my truck back....

 

Lets see... I was having some horrible brake issues since I swapped over to the open filter setup, so I figured it was that secondary tube running to the airbox post-filter being open to atmosphere causing me to somehow lose vacuum. I pulled the conical filter and adapter today, went back to the factory airbox with a K&N filter. But, since I'm trying to get a little more performance out of her, I skeletonized the bottom half of the airbox leaving only the lip that holds the filter, the forward mount arm, and the rear outboard mount arm(which I have zip tied to the remains of the inner fender to keep the airbox up) which leaves me with an intake opening the size off the factory filter, but with the appearance of a factory airbox. And the real-deal K&N flows WAY better than the crap knockoff I was using. Also, brakes work again!!! I plumbed in my new 165(?)/200psi tank switch, and installed my new 1/4-1/2 adapter in my drivers side tank input, the m-m 1/4 (with wrench flats), the f-f-f 1/4 t-junction, a plug on the outboard side, a 1/8-1/4 adapter on the top side, and the sending unit for my new air pressure gauge(air zenith digital 220psi). I also adapted a $3 set of j bolts and the factory battery tie-down from my Nissan Hardbody to the Toyota. I installed the clamp on the muffler(finally, it only had a little spot weld holding the muffler on), and I pulled 5 baffle discs off the muffler, bringing it down to 7. It is still loud, but not as loud as it was when I put the muffler on. The plug I installed on the f-f-f 1/4 t-junction is so that I can make sure all of my plumbing work is sealed up as good as(and hopefully better than) it was before I started tearing it apart. Hopefully my f-m 1/4 check valve will come in tomorrow so that I can put it where the plug is, and hook my second comp back up. Also, I found a wicked deal on a pair of Viair 480's, and I'm thinking of picking them up. Not to replace the two 380's I have, but to add them to the setup. 4 comps should fill up this 5(?) gallon tank PRETTY fast. And since I'll be going to all Slam Specialties SS series bags over the Thanksgiving weekend, I need to be able to get to 200 psi fairly easy if I want to take advantage of what those bags can do. Next up is running the wiring for this gauge and for the comp cutoff switch, which I may or may not start on tonight(I work nights, outside on the flight line, so I'm used to wrenching in the dark. Plus it isn't balls hot as it tends to be here in Al.)


Also, to go a little semi-old school, I was thinking about doing a single wiper arm conversion... What does everyone think?

 

Picked up a new toy this morning...



Also, I found out why the 1/4 f-m Viair check valve I had ordered from Summit had never come in. Turns out, the order never went through and I was never charged. So, since I need to get her up and running, I went ahead and ordered 5 of them from Amazon and had them overnighted, and that only cost me $36 total, so not too bad. They are supposed to be here today so I can go back to two compressors. I'm going to take her out for her first cruise in Saturday night, so I have a bit of wiring to do over the next two mornings... Also, I'm thinking about moving my dump valves and t fittings to the bags, and leaving my fill valves on the tank and just run a check valve going into the dump valve t at the bag. This way, if the lines are leaking, it will only leak when I'm filling since once the pressure is past the check valve, the only way out will be through the dump valve. Also, this will keep me from loosing tank pressure due to line leaks which would be a problem with moving both my fills and my dumps to the bags...

 

Continued with the installation of a new EUC for the Air Lift Auto Pilot that got fried when the alternator took a dump. Increased volts does not mean increased amps,thus the fuses didn't help!
All the senor wires require lengthening ( 18 in all), & labeling all before any cutting is a big must!!

 

Added a light bar and some Hella headlights.

 

Great lens ,I've been running these for years!!

 

I'd love those!

 

Did some tweaking to the Hybrid today while the cooler weather rolls in... Trying to squeeze a 14 flat or better out of this 280 comp cam and 93 pump gas!

Next problem is to get this thing to actually hook up on the launch!

 

Put my winter wheels/tires on the other day. Looks funny with the blue wheels back on.

 

Spinner hubcaps homie!!!

Today on my truck I yanked the driveline cause I smashed the tailshaft seal putting it in the other day so I gots to replace the seal

 

Okay, quick question... on the lower control arms on my 92 pickup, there is a pair of nutplates mounted on a bar. The bar runs front to back on the arm. This assembly is inboard of the two front/back mount holes for the ball joint. What is this stupid thing for? It is what my bags are rubbing on, and I need to know if I can just grind them off so that I don't have to remove the old bag plates and weld on new ones... Don't have a way to get under the arm to figure this out.

 

New battery ...

 

Got the new air controller ECU wires lengthened & all works well.
Next pull the dash & get repainted!!