Parts list for smaller booster/master cylinder conversion?

Discussion in 'Engine/Drivetrain' started by GrantH, Feb 17, 2011.

  1. GrantH

    GrantH Addict

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    Does anyone know the exacts on doing this conversion? I've heard anywhere from Geo Metro booster (what year?) with the stock Toyota master cylinder...to a Land Cruiser MC and a older Toyota booster.

    Can anyone clear things up for me? What year are the parts and such.
     
  2. GrantH

    GrantH Addict

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    31 views.....anyone?
     
  3. macawilial

    macawilial Veteran

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    I hope this thing becomes a sticky

    This is something I would like to know and do EVENTUALLY for clearance.

    Just thought I should throw this out there but I recently saw a bagged and B/D'd Toyota using some type of brake booster tube/extender/rod thingy ( I have no idea what its called). It basically pushed the brake booster forward and past the wheel for complete clearance. I honestly think its butt ugly but it does serve its purpose.:shrug:
     
  4. GrantH

    GrantH Addict

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    Yah, that won't be making it's way onto my truck. Think of the push rod length it calls for?!?!?!? I think it would bend over time. I'll be going stock again or doing a conversion to something smaller even if it's a earlier toyota.
     
  5. standardbyker88

    standardbyker88 Grand Toyotaholic

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    I used 81 master and booster on my 78. It had a smaller booster. I dunno how small you need to go tho.
     
  6. White Trash

    White Trash Toyotaholic

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    I scrapped an 83 supra and pulled the master and booster off of it. The booster is about 9" diameter but 5" thick. Of course being a yota it'll all bolt right up. :D
     
  7. planemos

    planemos Toyotaholic

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    I think the brake booster is what supplies vacuum to the engine. I think. So if you were deleting a bunch of vacuum lines or something then you could probably run a smaller booster. I don't know I'm kinda guessing. Not sure about vacuum systems at all.
     
  8. White Trash

    White Trash Toyotaholic

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    Ummm no. The engine supplies vacuum to the booster. There is only 1 line that comes off the booster to the intake manifold.

    You can eliminate the booster and go manual brakes if you size the master correctly and set everything up right they will work just as well as boosted brakes.
     
  9. Twisted Minis

    Twisted Minis Addict

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    79-83 has an 8.1" booster. Bolts to the stock booster and pedal on 84-88 trucks. Bolts to stock master on 89-95 but push rod needs to be modified. Bolts to firewall on Tacomas, but not master, and push rod needs work.

    1996 Land Cruiser non-ABS master cylinder bolts up, has 1" bore and set up for 4 wheel discs.
     
  10. topcop182

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    how do your breaks work now w that setup?
     
  11. jeremystephens

    jeremystephens Enthusiast

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    what size is the land cruiser one
     
  12. White Trash

    White Trash Toyotaholic

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    I'm running boosters on all of my trucks. I may go manual on the next truck if there are clearance issues with the booster beings that truck will be stupid low.
     
  13. Twisted Minis

    Twisted Minis Addict

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    Its a 1" bore, like I said. You use the MC, not the booster. Their booster is huge, like 11".
     
  14. jeremystephens

    jeremystephens Enthusiast

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    gotcha thanks seth
     
  15. Twisted Minis

    Twisted Minis Addict

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    No problem. And since it fits the early booster, means it would fit the stock booster on your truck. You don't really need it unless you are going to large brakes, 4 wheel disc, or just want more stopping power. I'm going to run one because I have it, and plan to upgrade my brakes later. (might actually do it now since I have 75% of the parts...)
     
  16. macawilial

    macawilial Veteran

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    How much clearance do you gain?

    So with 79-83 booster bolted to 96 landcruiser mounted on a 89-95 firewall, roughly how much clearance do you gain?
     
  17. dillinja666

    dillinja666 Toyotaholic

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    about an 1 inch
     
  18. White Trash

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    Sort of... If you use a disc master with a set of drums you'll have rear brakes that don't do much at the top of the pedal because the stock disc setup only requires around 2 psi residual pressure. The drums have to overcome the spring pressure so they need about 10 psi of residual pressure so the masters are built accordingly.

    Just putting a larger master on the stock small booster will give you stronger brakes through increased line pressure but that is at the expense of increased pedal effort on your part.

    If you want higher pressure line at lower pedal effort swapping to a larger vacuum booster with the stock 13/16" master will do it. The only times I swap out to a larger master is when I put larger calipers on (in the 4x world V6 and 92ish and newer trucks have larger pistons) and 99% of the time I swap in a turbo or V6 booster at the same time.

    One thing to remember when mixing and matching brake components is keeping the master bore/booster size vs caliper piston and/or wheel cylinder bore ratio in check. That is one thing I need to learn more about, what I know so far is from trial and error for the most part.

    On my 80 I ran a 1" rear drum master with a V6 booster, large piston front calipers and large late model rear drums and I could lock up all 4 on dry pavement with 3psi in my 38" tires. Phefawkingnominal brakes! I only wish my 1 ton GM front and rear 3/4 ton rear calipers could stop as well that are on it now. But I guess its just how it goes with 44's and all that added weight. :lol:
     
  19. low_toyota92

    low_toyota92 Enthusiast

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    for what its worth, i have a metro booster and MC on mine.... works OK, probably could be better... but doesnot bolt up... and i had do modify th rod as well...
     
  20. mprtftr

    mprtftr Enthusiast

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    You have the Metro Booster and Master Cylinder?:thinking: How did you get that to work? I left the M/C in the junkyard when I grabbed my booster. If there is a way to make it work, please let me know. Did yu have to change the ends on the lines? Can you post some pics of your setup?
     

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