ive been running the flip for 5 years now...... no breakage *knock on wood* and yes, ive hit pot holes and really mashed on this truck and tossed it around corners and everywhere else.........hard!!! every other truck i have done a standard 3/3 or 4/3 drop has needed no alighnment when done (although i always checked it). the only real time you will need an alighnment is when you do spindles since the spindles mount and move everything and change steering angles a bit....
would there be any issues if I were to do this on my bagged 94'? just got it bagged last week and the upper ball joint pretty much binds up when it's layed out. If I can get an 1 1/2" drop with no issues that would be freakin awesome. Would I have to to upper & lower though since the upper is the one that binding or would it be the same doing just lower?
it will help even on a bagged truck. i've never spaced one for 1.5" though. you could also pie cut the upper arm and that will really help with the binding. i've found that changing the location of the balljoint after it's been bagged can reduce the lift a little bit.
awesome writeup, im gonna try this one for sure. i bought my truck with blocks in back n looks like just shocks n torsion mod, i get bad bump steer. any options to lesson the harsh ride n keep it low?(only have about a inch of tavel up front. p.s. awesome yota in the driveway with supra celica wheels
So i just read what you said about the fender lines being lower in the back.... i ran out side o look at my truck lol. Your right! They are lower in the rear!!! I never noticed that before
you're one of the only few people who actually recognizes that the bj flip will retain some more torsion rate. my frame is currently level with the ground. i need to go even lower... truck still looks high to me, even though the exhaust is getting closer to the ground... and i'm already tucking most of the sidewall in the rear.
did mine today and had a slight noticeable drop about an inch or so,i also did not use spacers didnt have enough time , also the handling got better just a tad. is there anything else i can do to lower it without loosening the torsions and no drop spindle?
I might be the only one but I had to grind smooth the underside of my balljoint because it was not flush , it's was like 1/8'' to high in the middle ... maybe I have aftermarket balljoint , not the stock one.. Once everything was grinded smooth , it's was good!
not much else to do without either dropping it with the torsions, replacing the spindles or, lower control arms. yea...... some of the ball joints i found had a small rise or "bump" towards the center portion of the ball joint. this was never an issue since i usually used a minimal of one washer on each bolt to space the ball joints from the arms. i usually use anywhere between a 1/8th inch tick to 1/2 thick washer to space out the ball joint for that extra bit of drop.
Did mine today. Sorry no pics yet. But wanted to mention if the strut rod/support doesn't come close to lining up on the bottom of control arm to loosen em up and slide bolts in and bam it's done.
I just used a BMFSD (Big MoFo ScrewDriver) in one of the holes to align the other one and put the bolt in it.
Had my dad prying on it and I was gonna slide bolts in still couldn't get it so we put the socket to it ha but I used washers and got a noticeable drop I'm pleased but now Im slanted down. Couldn't put the blocks on yet due to sh!TTY weather but I'm off Friday so pics r coming
holy **** dudes, are you using two set of jacks to help you with your install? one under arm, one under frame. moving it around helps aligning that stuff. my .02
flipped my lowers, noticed a little gain, but not much, flipped my uppers, then i saw some good results.