So, I'll be replacing my carb fairly soon. The stock aisin needs a rebuild, but I can't afford much downtime, this is my driver for now. My 22r is stock, but mods are in the works. I don't like buying the same part twice, so which carb would YOU guys buy, that would run great now (on a stock engine) yet provide enough performance to support future mods (cam, header, maybe headwork, etc)?

Also, WHY would you buy a certain one? Results will be made public, everyone's gonna know what you voted for!

 

i run the 32/36 in my truck with bigger cam,os stainless valves, and port work runs great saving for a good header atm

 

i chose my fav of the 2 REAL webers you posted. the 32/36


the 34 is made in mexico, and ive never heard of a 36 synchro




truth be told, you could buy the progressive 32/36 DGEV and buy parts to mod it to any one of the carbs listed above, the outer casing is the same and all the parts are interchangeable.

the big difference is the synchronous carbs, they have a gear type linkage instead of a rod/cam setup for progressive.






but in all honesty if i was going to build a drag truck i wouldnt touch any of em.


i would go for a single or dual side drafts (means buying a new intake). there is so much more posiblitys with the side drafts and they are 100% break-down-able, while still bolted to the intake. the only reason you would have to take the carb off is to F with the throttle shaft or plates.

but in under 5min between runs you could change a DCOE 40 to a 45, change venturies, jets, pumps, ect. and have it back together. and the only tools needed would be a flat head screw driver.

now with a 32/36 type carb, you really only need a flathead as well, but its design in nature is to be a factory replacement carb, or on some euro's and domestics it is the factory carb. but there are 8 screws on top you need to remove along with the air cleaner to access the jets n such, prolly take 15min at the track to break it down and back up.

the DCOE is a pure performance carb, designed for racing. you dont see DG's on ferrari's or lambo's you see DC's. to access the jets, there is a wing nut, which exposes all of them, or if you need to go deeper its only 4 more screws.

besides the DCOE is a damm sexy carb, and i couldnt ever say that about a DGEV, and i have both in many different forms. i run a weber on every yota i got.

and this is my favorite, even after driving a DG on top of a supercharger

 

Back when I was in high school I owned an 88 model truck with the 22R engine. I blew the engine, had it built with LC Engineering internals & I went with the Weber 38 DGES. It was a bitch to tune lol, but once when we got it running right OMG!! I will admit that if I could have afforded the dual side drafts then I would have went with those.

 

thanks for all the input! And quick too!

In regards to the 36 synchro:

http://www.webercarbsdirect.com/category_s/404.htm

I would REALLY like dual sidedrafts (and will probably end up with them when I tear the motor apart and rebuild it or start with another bare block), but I feel like it's overkill for what I'm gonna be using the truck for....for now. HOWEVER, the single side draft ShoNuff posted is interesting. How much $ would that setup run me (carb AND intake), and could I bolt that on a stock 22r and drive it daily for a while? IF not, it's fine. I'll probably just get the 32/36 and call it a day.

If all goes well, I'm thinking I should be able to bolt enough parts on THIS engine to make it a little more fun, while building a different long block. When the new long block is ready, just swap over my induction (which ever direction I go) and header (which is probably next on the list) and be road ready...I mean TRACK ready.

I haven't even had this truck 2 weeks, and I'm already starting to shop for parts.....I think I have a problem! lol!

 

im not sure how much a single setup would cost, i got mine used.


got a whole celica with the carb n intake for $400.



but you can jet down the DCOE to work fine with a stock motor (mine is) and even duals can be setup fine with a stock motor.

 

hmm after i get my truck back togather i may have to look into that 36/36

my last truck had a 34/34, primary accel was nice but at full throttle it lacked top end

 

from what i have read the 34/34 and 36/36 are knock off weber's but i could be wrong and i would buy one in a heartbeat again from www.carburetion.com but read more on where to get one in this thread http://www.toyotaminis.com/forum/showthread.php?t=3465

 

damn the 36/36 says for m/t only, i can get it to work with a lil welding for my auto

its gonna havta wait anyway im getting a 32/36 for 50 today

 

remember folks, all the DG's and DF's use the same casting, just the guts are different. the guts are also interchangable, so if your lacking top end, rejet the thing. that is why you get a weber as apposed to a holley.

 

so what your saying is...for now, I could throw a 32/36 on my stock truck......then after I get some supporting mods, rebuild it into a 38?

 

bingo


only reason to get a synchronous carb is if you are only doing track duty, not really that much of a difference in power compared to a progressive.


and DD'ing a synchronous can be a pain in traffic and wastes more gas.


i got a rejetted 32/36 on my wheeler, get close to 30mpg with 35in tires and can tow a 85 K5 blazer with no problems. i also have some other mods to igintion intake n exhaust, but still use a mostly stock 32/36.

on my wagon i have a pretty seriously modified 32/36, sitting on top of a supercharger. seems to be just fine there, now if my cooling and oiling were up to snuff...

 

nuff since im probally gonna get that 32/36 i linked u to and im going to havta rejet it what jets are u running

on my 87 im gonna run either a stage 1 trd cam or a stage 2 lc cam, a slight timing advance and maybe later a header but the P.O. has a 2.5 inch pipe right where the factory exaust goes from 2 into 1 so its not really restrictive

 

I picked 38 cause its got the biggest number.. I have no real information until you start talking about hollys demons etc.

 

joe- thats a loaded question

ill get back to you, this is a excuse to tear apart em all and document ****.

but jetting is really a motor by motor thing. your going to be buying a jet kit anyway, start with stock #'s then upgrade as needed. buy a book now and start reading it.

thes are really good theory books, and both have the 32/36 in extreme detail.


http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_ss_1...rds=weber+carburetor&x=0&y=0&sprefix=weber+ca

 

thanks ill do that, hopefully ill get the thing today, yesterday my beater celica decided it didnt want a alt bolt no more, that was fun fixing for 2 hours, fwd and big hands in small spaces with no light FTL

 

Alrighty folks! A 32/36 is top priority now. This brings me to a few questions.

Can I get just the carb and adapter plate and make it work, or would I be better off shelling out the cash for one of the "conversion kits" that come with all the extra small parts so I can just bolt it on and go?

This would be a good time to get my EGR block off plates, wouldn't it?

Is a fuel pressure regulator necessary? Will the stock fuel pump provide too much pressure?

Like I said in my intro post, my last 22r build used the stock carb. When It comes to webers I'm clueless, but eager to learn!

 

you can just get the carb and adapter plate, and make it work, trucks have a cable so its not rocket science.


handiest part of the kit is the built in return spring mounts, i just about always have to add a stronger return spring and the kit brackets can be real handy.


a good place to start learning webers is the retailers listed in the "best place to get a weber" thread. they have a lot of really good tech info on there, and there is a freakin ton, of personal pages found through google.

 

I have the 45MM Dual Side Draft and I love it.

 

which vehicle is the 32/36 running on? 30mpg with 35's?!? dude, how're you doing that? is this a 4wd?

how is a synchronous carb troublesome in traffic?

I use the 32/36 on my '87 22R with Compcams 252S and DT tri-y header. it's nice, but I'm in the market now for the 38 DGES. if your vehicle's mostly stock, I'd recommend the 32/36 as well.