My options are as follow, a weber 38, a holly 500 I believe, or go ahead with my v8 conversion.

I kind of want a truck to run around in for a few weeks or month or so, but I also don't want to spend money where it's not needed. I can order all my v8 parts for around 60-700, to set the motor in place. I then have to buy a radiator and tranny, and have (or find) a driveshaft. You guys say the toyo rear will hold a decent bit of power, and it's only a 72 f100, maybe 180-200 horses. What do you guys think? I believe with a 5 speed mustang tranny it should work. So all in all I should have about a grand into the swap, and hopefully I can make it work with the stock wiring harness...


Anyone have ideas on that?

 

What???

If you can't trouble shoot a carb, how do you plan to troubleshoot any issues related to a V8 swap?
Do you have any idea whats involved in an engine swap?

Will you be swaping in a carbed or an FI motor. Either way if you can't fix what you have, you won't be able to fix the motor you swap in.

Put a weber on it and be done...or follow the troubleshooting flow step by step and fix the existing carb.

3 pages of someone telling you exactly what to do...why is it not working yet?

 

its not 3 pages of what to do, its 3 pages of what can be wrong. i have YET to find someone who can rebuild it, within a reasonable drive........for under 200 dollars.

as for doing a motor swap, i have pulled/replaced the motor in my f100 already, including a new wiring harness. its not hard...

troubleshooting on a bad carb is a lot different than bolting in a good motor already tuned and throwing a new tranny on it. the 302 is a fresh rebuild...that I have run already for a few miles (literally) a carbed (70's motor) only has....what, 5-10 wires? if you wouldnt assume, you may end up helping someone.

 

Troubleshooting!

What can be wrong, is what you have to troubleshoot...and you were told what to check. Check them and fix the issue.

Troubleshooting is not replacing parts...it is finding the part that is broken and fixing it.

You said you got it running, but that the battery was dead, you 'think'...

Rebuilding the carb is whole lot easier than an engine swap.
If you can do an engine swap you can rebuild a carb. Buy a kit and rebuild it yourself. $25 kit, some carb clean and some time is all it usually costs.

R & R'ing a motor is not an engine swap, an engine swap is an entirely different animal. Plugging a harnes into the origional vehicle with origional equipment hardly counts.

You can get a weber 32/36 for $150...bolt on and go.

...or sell the Toy and drive the Ford....

BTW, I assume nothing. I'm only going by what you have posted in this thread and the other thread which makes it appear that you should put down the tools and hire a mechanic

I am trying to help you, as was Shonuff...it seems you can't be helped.
Sorry

 

maybe i jumped the gun, but they way i read your post seemed as if you were trying to be higher than me....im not a fan of those type of people. i see now it wasnt meant like that.

i didnt get it running, only with gas in the carb it runs, but fuel makes it to the fuel inlet that the pump runs to on the carb. yet when i blow air through that line, the air gets through the jets i assume, as it blows fuel everywhere. maybe it goes somewhere else and i dont know its there.

as for the ford, it wasnt a plug and play, it was a complete new harness front to back "universal" type.

i am going to buy a kit, just didnt want to waste money and mess it up. if it fixes it, great, if now, ill buy a weber.

where do you buy the weber, the only ones i have found are 250 dollars, id like to only pay 150, but is there not an adapter and all thats needed as well?

 

You can find a weber on craigslist for about $150 that works and already has a toyota adapter. It's all about keeping an eye out.

I personally (if I was worried about $) would just rebuild the stock carb and run it. If I had $200 to rebuild it I'd buy that new weber for $250 (you can buy adapters new all day long for $20)

As far as air blowing through the carb but no fuel flowing...sounds like stuck floats...as mentioned in the 3 page thread

 

which i thought ix fixed, but obviously not lol

 

which holley would be best, 350 or 500? and it says on LCEngineering they delete all the choke stuff.....how does that work out?

 

the 500 holley is for a motor that has a top end kit on it, so if u run any of them go with a weber i ran a 38 weber on my stock engine for months..which i have sitting around right now also alot of those extra air lines on the truck can be removed. u can always just call and ask lcengineering what they mean, there techs are very knowledgeable about these motors...

 

thanks frinzo.i got the truck to crank and run, but it wont stay running and idles rough as crap. like wants to cut out, and kicks back on, then cuts out again.

 

the holly 350 = weber 32/36 = lil better then the stock carb

holly 500 = weber 38 = lil more then the stock eng can handle so you'd be throwing money out the tailpipe until the rest of the eng is brought up to par.


i still think that your carb needs to be set to factory specs and tuned, prolly need ALL new vacuum lines as well. try calling around to shops that work on older cars and see how much it would cost to tune your carb.

even with a new holley or weber you'd still be in the same boat you are now...

needing to tune a carb

 

I believe I found what I need at http://www.bluebassdesign.com/boonin/carb_faq/

"Idle Speed/Mixture Adjustments

There are four screws on the passenger side of the carb - warm idle speed, cold idle speed, idle mixture and ac idle up. Each one has set specifications and you can tweak them from there to meet your wants/needs.


Warm Idle Speed:
Once the engine has reached operating temperature, at idle, punch the gas pedal to make sure the carb is off of the fast idle cam linkage. You may notice the idle rpms drop slightly (which means you just stepped off the fast idle cam); or no change at all, which means the cam was not engaged. Turn the adjusting screw clockwise to speed up the rpms and counter-clockwise to slow them down.

Factory spec is 700rpms for M/T and 750rpms for A/T, but you may want to set it higher for offroad or an aftermarket camshaft. I prefer 900-1,000rpms for offroading and EB's (www.engnbldr.com) 268* camshaft.

Cold Idle Speed:
With the engine cold, floor the gas pedal once to engage the choke/fast idle cam. Verify that the fast idle cam is engaged by slightly opening the throttle and pulling up on the fast idle cam linkage (you may need to take off the air cleaner to get your hand to the linkage). Without touching the gas pedal, start the engine. Turn the screw clockwise to speed up the revs, and the opposite to slow them down.

Factory specs for the cold idle speed are:
• 1981-83: 2,400 rpms
• 1984-86: 2,600 rpms
• 1987-88: 3,000 rpms.

Again, you may want to tweak these based on your preference/engine, but this is not as important as your warm idle speed.


Idle Mixture:
From the factory, there is a cap over this screw to prevent the screw from backing out due to vibrations. If the cap is still there, most likely you do not need to touch this screw. If the cap is gone, then the carb has been rebuilt or someone was playing with things that shouldn't have been played with. Since the screw WILL back out over time, put a dab of rtv on the threads to prevent this from happening.

To reset the idle mixture screw for a 22R:
• 1982 - 2.5 turns from fully closed
• 1983-88 - 4 turns from fully closed.

These of course are baseline settings and will probably need to be tweaked ¼ or even maybe ½ a turn depending on your engine/timing, etc. You want to set the idle mixture first to obtain a smooth idle, and then set the idle speed second to where you prefer. This can generally be done just by tweaking the screws ¼ turn at a time, but the procedure to do so is:

With the engine at operating temperature, turn your idle MIXTURE screw until you obtain the fastest idle speed possible. Then set the idle speed screw to where you would like it (factory specs or higher based on preference). Repeat these two steps until the mixture screw cannot speed up the idle. Then use the idle speed screw to set the idle to where you prefer. "

-Taken from BBD

 

that is a very cool site

there is more than enuff info there to fix your carb.


if you start removing vacuum lines mark them with tape and a number for re-assembly.



i wouldnt over complicate things....

concentrate on just what you have changed sence you got the truck. return that to stock and i be she runs.

 

im hoping....i have all day tomorrow.

 

Good luck, let us know

 

no luck, had a buddy stop by and we couldnt even get it to run with gas in the bowl. tried pulling the carb off and 2 of the 4 nuts are stripped and I can't get pliers or anything on them.

 

that sucks! hope u can get it off and get her running..

 

yah, the one is like frozen i think and one i got loose but it wont come out. no idea why. its loose, but wont slide out. im about to the point where dropping money on the v8 swap sounds logical.

 

you 100 % . . .

Are you 100 % sure its carb / fuel supply, or is, have you checked the ignitions systems, like the distributer, ignitor, plugs, wires and so on. A bad cap and rotor can cause alote of headache, especially since you cant even get it to run with gas directly, a faulty ignitor will totally mess with your head. Have any of these been troubleshot ? Wishing all the best bro !

L o w N l o u d
( . . . just joined Yotascene.com today ! )

 

ive done new plugs, but havent done cap/rotor/points. i guess i probably should. I will have to bolt the carb back down tight and hook up all the vac lines. but its worth a shot. it WAS running with gas in the carb and yesterday i even had it idling ****ty for a couple seconds until it died. and that was gas from the tank, not directly in the bowl.