Gang,
Need some of you alls' expertise here. I just did a long block on my 20R and the stock CARB has to go! That POS is impossible and all I can think is that there is a crack in it where I cannot see. So, instead of trying to piece that thing back to life I decided to go an put a Weber 38 DGES on it and go from there. Has anyone done this conversion and if so, what do you do with the miles of vacumme hoses??? ANYONE with advice I am looking forward to hear it!

Thanks and CHEERS!!!!!!! I will send pics of the engine compartment when complete...

 

Not sure about the weber 38, but my 32/36 eliminated all but 1 vaccum line,(almost positive) so much cleaner. My stock carb gave me a-lot of problems too.

Good luck

 

dont do it and say goodbye to any good gas mileage you had! Should be the same as any other Weber setup just a bigger carb. Cap off all the old ports you dont use. Is it a stock rebuild? My 22R with a Comp Cams 252S had a 38 on it, I got rid of it as soon as I could, its way too much carb.

 

I say go with the 32/36. My friend had a 38 on his 20R Celica GT and it was way too much carb like everybody else stated above ^^^^.

My stock carb is sitting in my tool shed as a retired museum piece...LOL!!!

Rick

 

32/36 all the way. My stock carb is hopefully rusting to pieces somewhere in a landfill.

As for the vacuum hoses you will need the one that goes to the brake booster and if you have a distributor with the 2 vacuum advance hoses leave those. One you get it running though you should check to make sure the 2 diaphrams are working in the distribtor.

Set the timing with both hoses disconnected, with a timing light at idle hook up one hose, the timing should move pretty far advanced/retarded depending on which hose you hooked up first. the hook up the other one and it should return to where you set it, if it stays super advanced or retarded the diaphrams are torn and just leave both hoses off, you will just be running on the mechanical advance at that point. Normally the one closes to the head tears first just for a tip

good luck

 

I agree with everybodys 32/36 advice. You will need the adapter plate also.You may also have to rig up a return spring on your throttle.

 

Thanks a million for the helpful advice. I bought the carb from WeberCarbsDirect and the site shows the kit as a replacement for the 78 Toyota Pickup. The rebuild was nothing special as I (don't kill me here) like the old yellow truck to be original. The head was toast on it and the lower end needed nothing but new rings and a polish on the crank and bearing set.

My set up is a little different than what I have seen in literature but I am sure it is stock. My distributor has one vacumm port, not two. I sure hope tht 38 isn't too much for the engine, that would P**! me off because the website offers two versions of the 38 for that year/model Toy. We will see. Regardless, I am glad I am not the only one who thought investing in the stock carb is probably a losing battle...

thanks and the pics will be after I get this thing running! Right now its P**!ing me off!

one last question, how do you get rid of the "newbie" crap next to your post??? Thats also P**!ing me off! I should have veteran status after serving Uncle Sam for a quarter of a century!!!! LOL!!!!

Cheers!

 

if I remember right the 38 was designed to work with the 6 cylinder motors. look at the carb, you'll see both sided open the same time on the 38. The 32/36 is setup so that you run mainly on the 32 until you press the gas more than halfway, then the 36 opens up also. Sure the 38 will bolt up to our R motors but unless you have a seriously built motor its way overkill. Id return it and avoid the headache. My 83 4x4 had a 38 when I bought it, I could BARELY squeeze 13 miles a gallon driving like a granny. weber was on strike at the time so I stuck an Empi 32/36 on and jumped to 18 and 19 miles per gallon driving normal.

 

Ahhhhhh-ha! Now it all makes sense! What I don't understand, and its probably the case of a retard putting the info on the web site, is that is the only carb they offer (again, per the website) for the 78 truck. Also, did Toyota make a 6 banger back in those days? It would be news to me. Regardless, I understand much better about what the posts are saying about the 38... You guys are still the best resource in on the planet... I love wrench monkeys!

cheers!

 

i run the double 34 synchronized its a little harder to get jets for and to tune .but i also added a return spring because most webers have weak ones and i only have one vacum line i think i got mine on weber carbs direct but the 32/36 is great def toss that worn out oem

 

the old land cruisers had a straight 6 in them

 

i have a stock carb professionally rebuilt i'd sell ya for 75 plus shipping....
if i remember right the sight glass seal leaks and it has about an hour run time total

 

rink45, I appreciate the offer brother, but I think i have been convinced and after MUCH research, I am going with the weber... I like the idea of getting rid of the miles of vacumm hoses and the comfort of knowing I will be able to get parts for the carb if need be. The carb will be here tomorrow and I cant wait to get my little one taken care of!!!

Don't know about Land Cruisers, so thanks for the tid bit. I didn't figure they were in the 6 cyl business until later, but now I know...

Lastly, HOW does one get RID of the the NEWBIE title!?!?!?!?!?!? Drives me nuts! I am to old to be a newbie at anything!!! LMAO!!!!

ciao...

 

NavyMC You gotta keep posting to get rid of the newbie title.It doesn't take too long.So did you end up getting the 36? When you go to swap out the stock you can remove that black plate in between the carb and the intake. It is real important to get a good seal in that area or you wont get the carb to run right. I used an old notebook cover to make a couple of gaskets.Here's an old pic of my 32/36 set up.

 

Thanks for answering the mystery for me and I appreciate the "tid-bits" of info. After "getting it" through my thick skull about the 38 and 36 differences, I ordered the one that you fine folks have recommended, the 36. I am fixing the exhaust manifold studs right now because somewhere along the line, some half-stepping mechanic stripped them out and then used J-B weld for the fix. I am more of a helicoil kind of mech when something like that happens. I was unaware otherwise I would have had the machinist fix it during the long block rebuild! I hope tomorrow I get that wrapped up and then on to the carb...

The only remaining question I have now the carb is in my hands, is regarding the electric choke??? I am going to look around the WWW but if anyone feels compelled to counsel me, please do. Also any other tid bits would be good! I LOVE pics! Navy trained aircraft engine mechanic and P3 Flight Engineer and my generation was taught with mostly pictures!!!!! No, seriously, written to the 8th grade level accompanied by MANY pictures!!! The secret is out!

Cheers to you all for the input!!!!

 

regarding the elec choke... I used the keyed power that used to plug into the soleniod? on the side of the stock carb. I cut the old plug off and attached a female end. Im sure you can do it other ways. I will try to add some pics of mine

 

The exh. studs stripping is common. even the intake side. heli coil is great or you can use. a longer stud to grab those good threads in the back. they usualy strip shallow but those threads are pretty deep.I did not use the electric choke version on mine and i also used an electric fuel pump

 

Before and one after



So just a couple of questions, the vacumm system was easy enough to figure. WHat have you folks done with the intake of the air pump that pulls air from the stock air creaner assembly? I have capped everything off that does not apply to this weber and that seems to be the only hose I am uncertain what to do????

Tomorrow is the big day of starting it after the carb install... I hope to hell this thing gets back on the road since the engine rebuild took a month and with all the trouble and my anal retentivness, add 2 more weeks to the down time!!! Thanks again for all the avice! Much appreciated.

 

I removed the smog pump and fuel charcoal canister completely....
Where did you get your fuel pump regulator?

 

same here