This is a little long, but I need your help and advice guys.

Since picking up my Hilux for $700 and putting about $200 into ignition parts, oil, filters, other parts, adjusting the valves, timing, cleaning the carb, replacing the brakes, bearings, new shocks, new leaf springs, and generally bringing it back to life, things have gone south. The truck has been great until today-it has hauled several tons of dirt, mulch, furniture and managed many miles w/o much of a problem. Today it died less than a mile from my house (glad I was close), but sad that it quit.

I managed to get it home and began the diagnosis. It would still start (very reluctantly) but would not rev up, had no power, and would proceed to die very quickly. My first thought was that it threw the timing chain, but it appears to be ok. Compression is low across the board: 1)40 dry, 66 wet, 2)80 dry, 161 wet, 3)108 dry, 149 wet, 4)119 dry, 162 wet. They were all around 165psi about 5 months ago. 1 looks really bad to me, and they all seem to have burnt rings. I imagine 1 has bad valve seats as well-and considering the low compression they may all be going that way as I don't think this head was ever hardened for unleaded. Clearly these are bad numbers but what is puzzling me is why it all happened so quickly-granted it was close to 100 today and it rained yesterday so the humidity was up as well. Any ideas on why it suddenly choked? EDIT-Also the plugs looked perfect for lean/rich but were totally dry??

More importantly what to do now? I found a re-worked head for $295, guessing the rings would be about that much (I don't have a cherry picker, or any tools to do that much engine work). So should I try and rebuild this 18RC and keep restoring the Yota or should I look for a new motor, or should I just call it good and part it out? Ideas anyone. If anyone knows any lines on where to get a good motor please chime in, or if you think it's worth the rebuild let me know.

BTW the truck still needs: wiring work, new seats, a little welding to repair a few small rust spots, has no air-conditioning, has a 4-speed, needs new wheels/tires, new carpeting, little bit of body work (nothing major), paint, and at the same time the engine died the drivers side door handle stopped working!

I already started the tear down of the motor, here is a few pics-and one of the truck when I first got it. Been thinking about putting in an 18RG (145hp) but I don't know where to find one or how I will finance it.


In this pic you can see the "flamethrower" coil I added.

 

Put a 22r in it. That's what I did when mine blew. It's not a bolt in affair, but is 1000x more reliable then that motor and parts are very easy to find.

 

I've seen a few talk about doing that, but I don't think I ever understood what must be done to accomplish it. Motor mounts, shifter, etc. With a 22r and a W 5-speed how hard is it to do? What's the trickiest part? Thanks.

 

20 or 22r would certainly be a much better decision than replacing that cast iron turd with another cast iron turd.

 

Man that trucks body looks clean I'd drop a 22r in it . And keep it Rollin

 

for sure a 22r would be the best bet in my opinion, im hoping that isnt your only daily driver that you have? I would look into finding someone on this website that has done the swap and the the down low on what all had to be done to get it running, that is a really nice truck i hope you dont have to part with it

 

PM dillian lol he did it

 

Thanks for the replies everyone. Would a 20R be easier or is that too much like the one I had? If a 22R is a great option what about a 22RE? Too much trouble to deal with FI? Just so you know I don't have any welding gear, but I am not afraid of doing anything. I actually enjoy the challenge and the beat up knuckles!

The truck is really great, I love the old style, the long box, and the toughness it shows being so old. The first time I had it loaded down and it was near the bottom of the rear suspension travel (before I put new leaf springs in), it performed beautifully. Even maxed out it was up to the task-And the body is in really great shape, it has a few small imperfections but nothing that can't be fixed.

74Hiluxproject: Not my only driver, I have a 2006 Expedition (guzzler), an '81 Yamaha XJ550 (mizer with attitude), and also restoring an '89 Nissan 240SX (I know the evil Datsun empire-but this is a nice one). My gut is telling me to drop in a new motor, part out the old, and keep on restoring the '74-I would love to get it to show quality some day.

 

20r or 22r it would be the same work, the 22r is easier to find parts for. I would stay away from the EFI since the 22r with a weber only needs 2 wires to run, 1 to the ignitor and a ground wire .

You will need custom motor mounts, a custom transmission crossmember if you drop a 5 speed in, you will need some radiator work because the necks are different from your engine to the 22r as well as an electric fan because the regular one will not fit.

If I were you I would pick up a 22r, 5 speed trans, an ignitor and distributor from a junkyard near you. Before you put the 22r in throw a new timing set with water pump on it. Good luck, if you a serious about the swap PM me and I can give you my phone number to explain what I did.

 

What he said ^ it's not to bad I'd say the biggest part of the job is the cross member and that's not all that tuff to do ... And the 22re naaa skip that no need for for extras wires and a Ecu when a 22r or 20 will do the job for cheap

 

Ok think I'm convinced 22R block (maybe 20R head) 5-speed (which one?) and stick with a carb-which is ok by me since I've learned to work on them, and guess I'll have to start a build thread since for REAL changes are coming to the '74 Lux.

So with the custom mounts and crossmember what is the basic procedure (fab them up and go to metal shop? welding involved? sorry but I am clueless when it comes to 'non-stock'. I have replaced many things but modifying is new to me. I need a new radiator anyway if you look in my pics the PO used RTV on the old one to plug a leak. Why is the 22R so much more expensive than a 20R? I found several 20R's in good shape for $350-$500, but the 22R's are $750-$2000??? Since the power is almost the same what's the advantage besides available parts to the 22R? Is mpg the same?

 

For what you'll be doing I'd say get whatever is the best deal you come across. You won't notice the difference between a 20 and 22r.

I noticed that someone mentioned getting a factory ignitor. I'd do that if you find one cheap but with you already having an aftermarket coil I'd highly recommend using a GM hei ignition module. I've been running one for about 6 months with fantastic success and it was only a $25 investment.

 

go with the 22r!

 

That seems to be the consensus-I did run into a mechanically inclined girl today (autoparts store) who said she likes cast iron heads because they don't warp. I don't know maybe she was flirting with me I've been known to have a hard head before, but mine is definitely warped!

I will have to wait at least a month before I have enough change to consider anything engine wise, so just to learn and out of curiosity about what makes everyone dislike the 18RC so much I have been continuing the tear down. So here is some 18RC porn for your guys. I did have one question, the last pic is showing the exhaust downpipe and its not totally flat or smooth, I was wondering if this was an issue based on where the divets (or craters) are. Take a look and let me know if you think they are irrelevant and the gasket would seal anyway or if something like that would cause an exhaust leak no matter what. Thanks. 22R it will be! So nice to have fall project, and take 17hours!!! And my boat is pissed that the Toyota took over the garage.


how does my cam look?


If anyone come across any great deals on motors..please let me know.

 

Springdale is north eastern Washington state right? get some good deals on craigslist over here on the west side pretty often, i will keep an eye out and post any adds i find

 

'86 Toyota 22R and 5 speed

about 5 miles from me lol

** 500$ for both, not sure your budget but let me know and like i said ill keep an eye out

 

the biggest complaints i've heard of the 18r is the cast head (it's heavy) along with it not being a cross thru head (not sure if thats the proper term) so the air comes in from the drivers side and leaves the drivers side.

the 18rg shared a block but had a different head that was dohc. people pay lots for it and it made way more power.

look for posts by Toy Boy on here. he did a 5 speed swap. i modified the crossmember for him off of his specs (they were slightly off), but it worked.

 

here is the modified trans x member.

 

Burn I did the same thing with my crossmember, cept I wish I had dropped the center section down about 2 inches and then lowered the engine that much as well, the drive line ends up hitting the cab on big dips if you lower it like 3 inches on 17's. Toyboy went off my build, I ended up shimming my crossmember down like an inch to get more room.

Also you need to modify ( or remove ) the ebrake cables coming from the rear drums. The center section is where they meet for their pivot thing, with it that far back the cables are very slacked. I cut like 4 inches out of each one, then ended up removing them completly cause the ebrake was still weak and the cable going to the pivot needed to be extended...

 

I'm guessing North West Arkansas. If it's WA I've got a good running 20r and I'm pretty sure I have a 5 speed sitting here too.