Timing Chain Cover Removal

Discussion in 'Engine/Drivetrain' started by toy_boy, Mar 12, 2009.

  1. toy_boy

    toy_boy Addict

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    ...without removing the head and possibly the oil pan.


    I snapped (2) bolts that hold my water pump. 12mm bolt that actually bolts down into the block. 10mm bolt at the center of the pump, just to the right of that 12mm bolt.

    12mm bolt was just out of sheer stupidity and over torquing. Spun out fine, spun in smooth. Because it's not "frozen" by rust and time, there's hope that once I get the timing chain cover off I'll be in a better position to remove it from the block.

    10mm bolt was because of rust and age. I was as gentle as one can be, but it snapped, anyway.

    I've never done this before.....but I'm not about to scrap my motor because of this, nor do I want to pay the money to have someone else do it for me.

    I'll use this thread to document the experience.


    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Give you an idea of just how much of each bolt I lost.

    [​IMG]

    Because I did consider trying to drill these bolts out without pulling off the timing chain cover, I found a set of Craftsman Easy Outs on Craigslist. Asking $15....talked him down to $10. Waste of time and money. Both bits snapped within minutes - and that was with very little pressure and being ultra careful with my drill speed.


    [​IMG]

    I'm not about to lose a drill bit in one of these bolts, or worse, an easy out!

    I've been told by various guys, one being "Todd" at (http://www.engnbldr.com/) that not having the one 10mm bolt at the center of my pump should not be a big deal, just as long as the bolts on the edges and corners are fine. He did advise me that it would be better to deal with the 12mm bolt with the cover off. He's the second "Toyota expert" who has told me this.

    These machine shop guys like "Todd" know all kinds of tricks when it comes to snapped-bolt-extracting.

    Their experience is simply priceless.
     
    Last edited: Mar 12, 2009
  2. B.Y.E.

    B.Y.E. Toyotaholic

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    Take the cover off and save yourself the headaches. You can do it without removing the head and oil pan... This will be a good time to replace the timing set too! Let me know and I'll post up the steps to do so...
     
  3. ShoNuff

    ShoNuff Toyotaholic

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    when im taking a old motor apart, ill strike the head on the bolt with a hammer, then tighten it just a lil bit to break the bolt loose. then loosen it and if it starts to bind, tighten it a lil bit and loosen it some more. very time consuming but i rarely break bolts that way.



    and i concur:

    you should deal with the bolts with the timing cover off. you should be ok with a few missing bolts on the water pump. just be sure to let the RTV set for a day or two before putting fluid in and starting the motor. also put a glob of RTV in the hole of a broken bolt to prevent any seeping.
     
  4. IronNam

    IronNam Grand Toyotaholic

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    I'm so glad i didn't break a bolt, but at least you got somewhere!
     
  5. burnzya

    burnzya Grand Toyotaholic

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    hows this going joe?
     
  6. toy_boy

    toy_boy Addict

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    I've taken off all the bolts that hold the timing cover, including the two bolts at the front of the oil pan, and the one bolt under the camshaft gear.

    I don't have an indoor garage to work in so everything is done in a covered carport. Unfortunately when it rains water tends to roll past my parking spot, causing rain delays on any wrenching. Rain is expected today (Sunday) till early tomorrow.

    I've been debating as to whether or not I should go ahead and pull the head.

    I did decide to at least do the oil pan gasket.

    It wasn't "leaking" but the 27 year old gasket was damp to the touch.

    190,000 original miles on what I know to be the original head...maybe now would be a good time to start with a fresh head. Maybe.

    Haven't decided. What do you guys think?

    In this photo I'm just about to pull the smog pump bracket off. This way there is absolutely nothing in the way when I go to remove and replace the timing cover.

    [​IMG]

    I used the back of a box, traced the shape of the water pump, and poked all my bolts in their perspective spots in accordance to the pump.

    There are (18) bolts total that hold the timing cover.

    Anything else I removed, I bagged and marked. I've got a ****ty memory.

    [​IMG]

    Unlike single chained motors (83' and up), and because I have no plans on replacing my dual chain set, the toughest bolt to remove is the 12mm bolt just under the camshaft gear.

    Because I didn't have it in my tool set already I had to go out and spend $8 on a Craftsman "Shallow, 12mm, swivel".

    I found it easiest to hold the ratchet from the driver's side, this way I'm not bumping into the camshaft gear. Also note, you're not going to be able to completely unbolt it using the swivel, so get it just to where you can loosen the rest by hand. Otherwise, you'll have the bolt so far out that you'll have the swivel pinned between the bolt and the camshaft gear.

    Tomorrow afternoon is suppose to bring clear weather - I'll remove the oil pan and the timing cover - then inspect the water pump bolt that started it all.

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Mar 16, 2009
  7. IronNam

    IronNam Grand Toyotaholic

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    My truck was parked outside of the garage when i did my timing chain.. should've put it in the garage...
     
  8. B.Y.E.

    B.Y.E. Toyotaholic

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    Don't forget to unbolt the heater pipes behind the timing cover... So far looks like your on the right track. :cool:
     
  9. ShoNuff

    ShoNuff Toyotaholic

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    seems like your going this far you want to regasket the whole thing. id pull the motor, be way easier to do the work on a eng stand.


    on a side note:

    its super easy to get the lil bolt in the pool out if you take the dizzy gear off
    [​IMG]
     

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