ok question... i got a 93 toyota 22re,it runs great till it gets warmed up then it spits and sputters at idle like it wants to die but never does.whats goin on? ive got new plugs,wires,air filter and even changed the oil.i know the oil had nothing to do with it but i figured i might as well.could it be the timing chain? it has 173k miles on it and i just got it at 172k.the guy before me said he didnt do anything to it but drive it.
Well, I would say if you've checked all the easy stuff, and it sounds like you have, check all the vacuum lines. How does it run off of idle? Wide open? Need more info....
i plan on doin the timing chain asap.its been parked since i got only driving it on occasions.i been using my blazer for everything else.it runs great idling until it warms up.driving down the road it runs fine too.it has a occasional small miss after goin into 5th gear. so small its barely noticeable.but when i stop it wants to die.especially with the a/c up.We turned the idle up and it still has a miss to it but will idle high just has a big sputter.
i had a few people tell me that too.im going to try that this weekend.im going to get the valves adjusted too.since it has a bad valve tick to it.
I believe the bad MAF would trigger the ECU to run in safe mode which in itself, would not cause the symptoms you've described. It sounds to me like there may be a vacuum leak somewhere. I've heard of guys using some kind of chemical to spray around possible leaks and when the fumes are pulled into the leak, it causes the engine to die completely. Don't rightly know what the stuff was though.....
You can use propane. If the vacuum is located the car will run better. You can also use carb cleaner,brake cleaner and also butane. In a jam you can use a plain ole lighter not lit of course.
I have some non-chlorinated brake cleaner that will not burn (yes, I've tried). That would probably work too, only it would not make the engine run better.
Not always sometimes they just get worn out enough to run like crap but not die completely. Since it's running fine till it warms up I would try the AFM first if you have access to one you can try swapping to see if that fixes it.
My truck is doing the same thing. I just replaced the head, it has new plugs, distributor cap, rotor button, timing chain, gears, and tensioners. It runs fine until it gets warmed up then when it idles it sputters. If I turn it off then crank it back up then it's kinda hesitant to crank like it's out of time or something but when it's cold it cranks right up. I'm pretty sure all of my vacuum lines are hooked up correctly but I could be wrong, I followed the diagram on the hood but it's not very clear. Any suggestions?
I would check the Maf for sure. The trap door style Toyota uses in there older stuff are known for sticking. Especially if the truck sat like you say it has. The door will get stiff and not want to open freely, so when on the gas its sucking enough air in to open it up, but at idle its choking the motor of air... and could be giving a bad signal. Take the air box off and you should be able to reach in and try pushing it open to see if it is stiff at all.
