Remove 18R pulley

Discussion in '1976-1983 Build-Up/Project Threads' started by Bandile, Jun 9, 2017.

  1. Bandile

    Bandile Newbie

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    Hi everyone,

    Got a noob question here for my '83 Hilux... How does one remove the pulley on image below. I can't seem to find a way to lock the crankshaft even if the vehicle is in gear 5 & the brake pedal is depressed.

    IMG_20170527_152853.jpg
     
    Last edited: Jun 9, 2017
  2. jetas

    jetas Grand Toyotaholic

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    Impact gun
     
  3. Bandile

    Bandile Newbie

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    Thanks for the response, will have to source an impact gun as I don't have one.

    So, there's no other way to lock the crankshaft?
     
  4. 90DailyDriven

    90DailyDriven Veteran

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    Is there another hole on the other side of the pulley? If so there are tools or make one.
     
  5. fred heath

    fred heath Addict

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    Why do you have an 18RC in a 1983?
    Regarding the pulley removal. I'm guessing its similar to the 20R. To remove the pulley make sure the hold down bolt is removed (hard to tell what that donut shaped ring is on the face of the pulley) you may need to use a "chain wrench" to keep the pulley from turning during nut removal.
    The two threaded holes on each side of the pulley should be mm8x1.25. Get two threaded bolts and something like a steering wheel puller to remove the pulley itself.
     
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  6. jetas

    jetas Grand Toyotaholic

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    Can you stick a screwdriver or something in one of the openings on the pulley to jam it up while you loosen the bolt?
     
  7. fred heath

    fred heath Addict

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    Obviously you've never removed a crank pulley bolt. The only thing jamming something into the pulley is going to due is damage the pulley.
    I normally don't critique other members posts unless it's something that could do major damage. Check any manual you want. No one jams something into a pulley.
    The pulley has 2 threaded holes designed to accept the correct size bolt to allow the pulley to be removed. By jamming something into these holes other than the intended size bolts will likely damage the threads. Now your screwed.
     

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    Last edited: Jun 10, 2017
  8. jetas

    jetas Grand Toyotaholic

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    Obviously you dont know how to read because the OP hasnt gotten the bolt off yet. Hes asking about ways to get it off along with the pulley. And i never mentioned anything about the threaded holes.

    Dude could always strap a chain onto the big pulley holes and the other end to the frame somewhere to jam it up.

    Please also take a look at my build thread, ive had my hands in just about every part of my truck. Im not and expert or anything but please dont assume you know about my knowledge or experience.

    Good luck @Bandile
     
  9. fred heath

    fred heath Addict

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    Obviously, you shouldn't be working on engines.
    Dude could always strap a chain onto the big pulley holes and the other end to the frame somewhere to jam it up.


    Actually I answered the OPs questions. The op wanted to know how to secure the crank from turning while removing the pulley bolt. I suggested a chain wrench which can be borrowed from someplace like AutoZone. The alternative to to source a special tool which uses the mentioned threaded holes to lock the crank pulley in place. The crank pulley is a balanced, precision piece. The bolt is held on with 80-90 ft.lb of torque. This is why every reference source shows the correct way to remove this item. Slapping a chain through the pulley while trying to remove the bolt will only damage the pulley. If this method works for you that's fine. But don't suggest it to someone else.

    Show this thread to any real mechanics and ask them what they think of your "chain" idea.
     
    Last edited: Jun 10, 2017
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  10. first80toyota

    first80toyota Addict

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    For the bolt, get a breaker bar long enough to be against the frame then bump the key a couple times and let the starter break it loose. Works every time for a 20r and 22r, I see no reason it shouldn't work for an 18r.

    To get the pulley off most likely you'll need the tool shown previously. And when using it, apply some tension then give the pulley some taps with a brass mallet around the edge to help it break loose, then keep going. This works for me 99% of the time..
     
  11. fred heath

    fred heath Addict

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    That may work sometime depending on how long the bolt as been in place. But remember, your transferring all that torque to the timing chain.
    If it doesn't break the bolt on the first try, you could end up breaking the chain or causing it to jump a gear.
    In an emergency, I'd try it. But if you can get a chain wrench, and have the time, why take a chance.
     
  12. first80toyota

    first80toyota Addict

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    Last I checked the torque would only go through the crank? Correct me if I'm wrong, but the starter turns the flywheel which is bolted directly to the crank, and the bolt he needs to break loose is in the other end of the crank. So how does this affect the chain?

    Also, if you're so worried about damaging something, how is a chain wrench any different?

    :waytogo:
     
  13. fred heath

    fred heath Addict

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    Let me see if I can explain it on simple terms.
    Your starter motor on its own cannot produce the 80-90 ft. lbs. of torque necessary to loosen the crank pulley bolt. Not only does it have to turn the flywheel but also crank, pistons etc, but you also want it to break the bolt loose. You described it as the breaker bar resting against the frame with a socket on the crank pulley bolt. This cannot be done unless the bolt is barely screwed in.
    The process I think your trying to explain is where you set the end of the breaker bar above the frame rail (usually 2 o-clock) you then use the centrifugal force of the starter turning to break the bolt.( in simple terms, you're using the starter motor to slam the end of the breaker bar onto the frame rail loosening the bolt).
    This is where your timing chain comes in. (think newton's 1st law) unlike the crank, pistons ect. that are securely locked in place the timing chain has flexibility in movement. This means when everything else comes to a screeching halt, the timing chain is going to want to keep on moving. (think of what happens when your holding a coffee while driving and then hit the brake really hard). Same thing with your timing chain. They are not designed to do that.
    As far as damaging the pulley by use of the chain wrench, the only thing you would have to check is to make sure there are no gash marks from the chain on the inside V-groove. This would cause premature fan belt failure. Other than that, a chain wrench is perfectly acceptable.
     
  14. first80toyota

    first80toyota Addict

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    I'm not going to sit here and be a keyboard warrior. Like I said, I know my idea will work 90% of the time and I've done it this way many of times and many people I know also do it this way on a variety of vehicles, I'm not going to sit here and argue with you about it. Don't do it if you don't agree, simple as that.
     
  15. fred heath

    fred heath Addict

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    I'm not a keyboard warrior. I've been doing this stuff for a long time. Physics is physics. You can't change that.
    We'll agree to disagree. Anyone reading this thread can decide if they want to try your method or not.
     
  16. jetas

    jetas Grand Toyotaholic

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    I think all this squabbling scared off the OP...
     
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  17. Perkolator

    Perkolator Toyotaholic

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    I've personally done the breaker bar wedged against the frame on my 22re. Worked like a charm. Soak it in penetrating oil if you're concerned with it not being enough torque to break it free.

    I got the same tip from like fifty 22re rebuild threads I read online before tearing into mine. Definitely use a 6pt socket, not a 12pt. Also make sure to use a 1/2" drive, not a smaller one. First attempt I sheared my 3/8 to 1/2 adapter like it was a twig.
     
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  18. fred heath

    fred heath Addict

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    I never said this method won't work. What I said was every time you do this you run the risk of damaging the timing chain.
    Whatever torque is being applied to the crank pulley bolt is also being applied to the timing chain by the crank sprocket (newton's 3rd law). 99 out of 100 times it may work fine, but that 100th time could get expensive. The timing chain will always be the weak link.
    This is why no major publications (Chilton's, Haynes ect.) show this method, even as a shortcut.
     
  19. first80toyota

    first80toyota Addict

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    If a repair book showed every posibble way to do something you'd have a book nearly as big as the one on how to understand women.
     
  20. Dennis goeden

    Dennis goeden Enthusiast

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    has any one read bandile profile, the head is off so any rotating of the crank would cause damage due to not being able to remove the upper chain , and it binding up and breaking some thing, and if you are going to quote a torque spec , be right people come here for proper info ,
     

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