Perkolator's '75 Hilux

Discussion in 'Pre-1975 Build-Up/Project Threads' started by Perkolator, Sep 25, 2015.

  1. Perkolator

    Perkolator Veteran

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    Always loved the look of the classic 70s Hilux with quad headlights. I recently saw a partially restored 1975 Hilux for sale on CL and snatched it up for a fair price. Now I have the pre-smog truck I always wanted and a wife shaking her head at the 5-Toyota parking lot in front of the house :silly:

    Here's the truck:
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    The truck is in pretty good condition and has had a lot of work done already. The PO had a 78 parts truck that he swapped a bunch of stuff between. Plan is to just finish it as a simple low-dollar restore so I can drive the truck regularly like it wants to be.

    Exterior used to be red and is primer right now. Still has a couple areas needing metal work: behind drivers door on cab and bed there's a shallow dent needing to be pulled out more and skinned. The hood has a small rust spot near the passenger headlight that needs to be cut out and welded in. The cowl under the windshield got dented by the hood flying up at some point, not quite sure how to pull those ones flush. PO gave me most of a gallon of epoxy primer too! Will eventually paint it white to match interior and because he's already pre painted the door jambs, under the hood and behind the cab and bed. Wheels are 17" mustang wheels, not sold on those and will likely replace eventually. I do have a rusty tailgate that I will make work, stuck it on the other day but it is missing some captured nuts so need to install new ones.
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    20r motor is running alright. Has a Webber carb with what I think is a flat spot/hesitation when punching it. PO partially rebuilt I guess with new timing kit but I don't think he touched anything else really, just made it look good. Has a Headman header with 2.25" exhaust and an obnoxious flowmaster that I definitely will swap out for something like a magnaflow super turbo style muffler. Timing was off and set to zero degrees. I re timed it guessing it's around 8 degrees as there's no timing marks on the oil pump cover. It definitely sounds and runs smoother now.
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    Interior has had most of the finish work done. All new white paint. Used to have bucket seats but has been replaced by a good bench seat out of a 78. Center console cut and reversed to compensate bench. Door panels are some sort of carbon fiber looking material. Headliner and visors are fresh too. He said the carpet kit was not the color he ordered but just installed it anyways. There is sound deadener installed underneath the carpet and I think inside the doors too. All the glass is brand new, rear window replaced with solid gray tinted glass, all brand new weatherstripping for glass and doors. Flashers and hazards don't work, hoping it's just the relay/control module. Interior dome light doesn't work and the left gauge pod doesn't light up either, hoping something simple there too. PO installed a few pod gauges and I'm not sure on their placement just yet but don't mind them (coolant temp, voltage, oil pressure). Planning to do modern stereo and more than one speaker, lol but haven't found much of other people's installs to follow yet.
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    Bought and just received all brand new parts for the front end. Decided this was step one since its squirrelly on the road and I know someone with an 82 pickup that had the pitman arm separate on him earlier this summer. Tried my local auto parts stores but everyone had to special order. So I ordered from Autopartsexpress and they had them in stock at cheaper prices! I got all Moog parts which happily turned out to be Sankei 555 branded parts: new inner and outer tie rods with adjusters, new upper and lower ball joints, new idler and pitman arms. I'm not familiar with the control arm bushings in these trucks yet so didn't order those. I hear the steering box may have some adjustment that I'll try before I try to source a replacement. Also need to figure out what's making my drivers front wheel sticks out around 1" further than the passenger side. Hoping it will now be nice and tight afterward.
     
    twizted1 likes this.
  2. jetas

    jetas Grand Toyotaholic

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    Looks pretty good.
     
  3. Perkolator

    Perkolator Veteran

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    Thanks!

    Today I got under the truck and worked on replacing some of my steering parts. Good thing is nothing was seized or rusted because it was well protected by 40 years of grease saturated dirt built up to at least 1/2" thick in some areas! Scraped most of it off with a putty knife but I'll get more later...I want to replace the control arm bushings, swaybar bushings and flexible brake lines with new. I also have to do the pitman arm still, I don't have a big enough socket for it. Alignment might be good too, I got the tie rods as close to original length as I could but likely still needs some adjustment. Overall the steering is significantly improved!!!
     
  4. jetas

    jetas Grand Toyotaholic

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    Nice to hear you got some workdone
     
  5. daruma

    daruma Member

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    Looking great! I got a 75 myself. Wonder how he did the carpet. The one I got for mine doesn't fit. :(
     
  6. Perkolator

    Perkolator Veteran

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    maybe yours just needs some work to make it fit better?

    I didn't find the receipt, but PO said it was a carpet kit he ordered. basically it's just template cut carpet that's adhered on top of 80mil GT Sound Control mat. I used to have a Datsun 720 pickup and did the interior myself, the carpet wasn't very hard to do with a piece I bought at upholstery shop, just take your time, measure lots and cut it to fit the contours. If you have a center console it's even easier since you can put a seam underneath.
     
  7. convict

    convict Member

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    Looks nice bud keep up the good work
     
  8. Perkolator

    Perkolator Veteran

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    thanks! don't have any major plans yet. just been making lists of stuff to do so I can start driving it around regularly:
    - figure out why my front driver wheel sticks out more than the passenger side. possibly try and shift the front clip over a tad, or maybe it's a control arm adjustment?
    - want to get some larger sockets and swap out my pitman arm, then have an alignment done.
    - investigate steering box for play.
    - buy GM alternator and install using the alternator kit the PO bought for the truck. figure why not if I already have it.
    - weld in some nuts to bolt on my tailgate hinges, then figure out how the chain mounts to the bed and tailgate - anyone have a pic?
    - swap out flowmaster muffler for a super turbo muffler to quiet it down a bit.
    - buy some windshield washer squirters and drill my hood to install them -- PO installed '78 hood which has no emitters in it and I assume the 75 had emitters in the hood originally, so now i have none.

    trying to figure out what I want to do with my stereo. I pulled the stock unit and put in a stock blockoff plate temporarily. i don't really want to cut the opening wider, but i have a 2nd dash piece that's already got the square on the left corner cut out, so maybe I can cut that one up and fill the other hole with a clock or something. otherwise, I might keep the blockoff plate and make a custom center console for my head unit and front speakers.
     
  9. Perkolator

    Perkolator Veteran

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    had some time to tinker with the truck this past weekend and figure out what I need to order.

    Tried to get my 78 seat belts installed, but failed. Drilled the hole for the protruding tab on the backs of the retractor units, then went to extend the belt so I could bolt the upper mount - well, both retractors are frozen and won't release the belts. Damn. Also, I noticed they wouldn't work anyways since on the 75 truck there is only 2 of 3 mounts I could locate for the seat belt. couldn't find a 2nd hole at the bottom for the end of the seat belt. I think I might have to fab an L-bracket and drill a new hole in the floor pan....and get new seat belts that actually work. Found lots of options for aftermarket, but really wanted the OG ones with "toyota" written on the button.

    Finally found a pic online of a Hilux with the tailgate down - so I could figure out how to mount the upper end of the tailgate chain. I couldn't for the life of me figure out how to mount the chain w/o an obvious mounting hole for a bolt, but then I saw in the pic that it shares the same bolt as the latch anchor. Swapped in a longer bolt and now all is good, just need to de-rustify the tailgate now, need a tetanus shot looking at it.

    Think I have a small drain on the battery. The only electronics item added to this truck is a set of gauges, but I don't think it is that. I think it might be the stock alternator, like a bad diode inside as I've heard they can make a drain. Either that or the alternator isn't charging very well. The PO gave me a Trail Gear alternator bracket kit for a GM alternator. After looking at LOTS of threads online about this mod, I found it quite difficult to find a CS130 alternator in the 100amp range with a v-belt pulley instead of a serp belt pulley. Finally found one that fits my specs and I can order through Autozone so I can use the warranty locally just in case. Alternator is a DL1352-1-11, 100amps and only $75.

    Driving around, I also noticed that there is a new whistling sound in the engine bay. I'm thinking it is from the carburetor. Possibly an air leak at the adapter plates, but I'm not sure. I only had MAF cleaner to spray around and it stumbled when I sprayed the back of the carb. Good thing I was looking because I found a hole in the air filter bottom plate. Called up Redline/Weber and they said block it off since I'm de-smogged and the hole was to hook up a hose. They also said that my carb issue sounds like it needs bigger jets. I guess I'll order up some along with new base gaskets so I can tinker.

    Tightened up my steering box at the adjustment screw. It took maybe 3/4 of a turn and I think it feels a lot better. I'm going to order up a steering coupler and see if that helps, which I'm assuming it will. Found some on eBay for our trucks.

    I also tossed a tape measure on the front end of the truck - found the driver's side is closer to the frame than the passenger side. This explains why I've got more tire exposed on the driver's front. Removed the lower body mount bushing and I don't think there's enough room to shift things over. I'm gonna have to oval the mounting hole or see where else I can shift the front clip toward the driver's side 1/2".

    For my muffler, I think I figured out what I'll swap to. Not diggin' the Flowmaster sound, it's way loud and metallic/raspy/rice to me, but I do like the sound of the round Magnaflow on my 22re pickup, nice and quiet but deeper. While looking through Summit catalog I found the Jones exhaust mufflers. Supposedly are built the same as a Magnaflow, yet flow more CFMs - perforated tube with packing around it. So I'll be ordering a 2.25" ID/OD offset/offset oval muffler, it's around $40. If I don't like that, then I think I'll get a resonator to add later.
     
  10. Perkolator

    Perkolator Veteran

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    Today was a productive day. Three big things completed.

    The other day I put in an order for jetting kit and gasket paper to fix the carb. Yesterday the jet kit came and today the gasket paper came. I wanted to make my own gaskets just because and in case it leaked again I'd have extra as backup. I got the 1/32" thick Karropack gasket sheet.

    When I pulled off the carb I found that the first adapter plate had a tapered mounting screw not sitting below the surface of the adapter like the 3 others were - likely why it was leaking.

    Discovered that when you take off the bottom adapter plate, that there is a water port hole underneath and coolant needs to be drained, otherwise it comes out of this spot. Good thing I just barely cracked it loose and found the water trickling out before it got inside the intake! Drained coolant from petcok and disaster avoided.

    Made my new gaskets and as I installed the first plate I saw the one screw still did not want to seat properly, it was raised above the plate and the others were slightly recessed. Looked at it closely and the head was slightly flawed. Took a sanding block and made diameter slightly less - seated nicely now. After that, I plugged the hole in the bottom of the air filter plate with a bolt and some gasket material between.
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    Now that the air leak was resolved, I could baseline the carburetor. I ended up swapping my primary jet to the next size up, 65 I think. Now the truck runs pretty good and idles pretty good. Still needs a little adjustment but it's significantly better than it was before!

    2nd thing I did today was get my seatbelts installed. Found a spare mounting nut under the cab, but not hole through it. Drilled out the hole and used this spot for my belt anchor - now I can safely have a passenger in the truck! Was a pretty quick swap once I found the nut and drilled the hole, otherwise I was going to have to fabricate a bracket.

    3rd thing is that my turn signals work!!! Yesterday I found my hazard switch didn't have the big plug connected, installed that. Also plugged in the flasher relay since it too was disconnected. I still couldn't get them to work yesterday, but when I drove the truck today I used the turn signals out of instinct and quarry's know I see a light clicking on the dash! Investigation shows my signals only work with truck running, they don't come on in "on" mode. Oh well, I have turn signals now! My hazards still don't work, but maybe it's a bad switch, I have a spare I can try out. Need to get myself a "knob" for the end of the turn signal lever though. Mine is missing and the end of the rod is notched and kinda sharp. Maybe I'll just make one out of something.
     
  11. carinaguy

    carinaguy Newbie

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    Don't carve up your hood until you see if the original ones are there. They are little, and easy to miss, but they mount in the cowl and poke up between the slats of the vents below the wipers. They aren't as effective as the newer style, but have a subtle old-school appeal. Certainly worth digging around for first!
     
  12. convict

    convict Member

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    Sounds like you have a good plan coming along keep up the good work
     
  13. Perkolator

    Perkolator Veteran

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    Started working on my alternator swap today and ran into a snag so I stopped for the evening.

    The alternator bracket goes under the front half of the drivers side engine mounting bracket. The problem is that the stock one only used the bottom of the two holes, and the top hole has a metal spacer as part of the engine bracket. The TG alt bracket needs to use both holes. I thought the spacer was a loose piece and I tried tapping it out but I think it's welded to the engine mount. As an alternative I contemplated just cutting the new alternator bracket to use 3 holes only, but it's thicker steel than the stock bracket was therefore since the spacer is thinner I couldn't slide the bracket in :(

    Tomorrow I'm going to attempt loosening both engine mounts and jack the engine up a scoach to try and remove the engine mount bracket, then see if I can grind off the spacer. In theory this should work :shrug:
     
  14. White Trash

    White Trash Toyotaholic

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    There should be a few small tack welds holding the spacer on. I wouldn't be afraid to cut the new bracket and run 3 bolts either though.
     
  15. Perkolator

    Perkolator Veteran

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    I ended up just chopping the bracket. Loosening the motor mounts and jacking didn't loosen things up enough to pull the motor mount. Seemed less work to just chop. Couple minutes with the cutoff wheel and it was the right shape, also had to reduce the thickness just shy of 1/8" to match the spacer thickness. Quick spray of paint while it was still hot, let it cool off and it slipped into place like I meant for it to, love when that happens. Didn't start installing the wiring yet, maybe by next weekend. Engine is wet because I pressure washed the area.
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  16. Perkolator

    Perkolator Veteran

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    Finally got around to installing my new pitman arm. I didn't have a socket big enough before when I did the tie rods, ball joints and idler arm. OMG what a HUGE improvement the new pitman made! Before when I did all the other stuff I still noticed a fair improvement over the sketchy loose steering it had when I got it. Now it's what I'd consider "normal" and now I won't be afraid to take it in the highway, lol.

    Need to take it to a good alignment shop now and see what magic they can work on getting my wheels straight and matching relation to fenders. After that the oly steering part (besides a new gearbox) left for me to do is replace the rag joint/coupler that I got. I saw that the steering wheel and steering shaft needs to come out, so I guess I'll get to it someday.
     
  17. nottoshabi

    nottoshabi Enthusiast

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    Nice truck congratulations. If you plan on keeping this truck for a long time may I recommend spraying rhino bed liner. It will save you on paint $$$ when you plan on painting and will last longer and take care of all the rust. Also I have a question about the ignition coil. Have you had any problems with the ICM being effected by the newer more updated ignition coil? If you plan on changing your steering box I know of a good place that sells refurbished ones. They will ship it to your house its pretty much plug and play.
     
  18. Perkolator

    Perkolator Veteran

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    Thanks.
    Bedliner is what I'm gonna do after paint the body.
    Haven't had any ignition issues so far, but haven't really put a lot of miles on this truck yet - maybe just one full gas tank so far, lol
    Would like to know about the steering box source for the future. So far the pitman arm took care of pretty much all the issues that were still there after the tie rods and idler. Still need to do the steering coupler.
    This summer I think I will go swap my muffler to a magnaflow, order some MM springs and blocks to lower the truck, also I wanna get smaller tires and new wheels to complete the look - pretty sure what I have now won't fit. Once that's all done, paint will be last - likely next year.
     
  19. nottoshabi

    nottoshabi Enthusiast

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    BuyAutoParts.com

    Has the steering box it's worth the money big change in driving conditions. I got my steering coupler from.

    toyheadauto.com

    They have a lot of hard to get parts for our truck, I got the steering coupler, mirror and some other parts. They are really cool and professional. Highly recommend them.
     
  20. Perkolator

    Perkolator Veteran

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    Got some new wheels for my truck. I was originally wanting those gold Jeep mesh wheels but then I saw these jeep 10 spoke mag wheels on CL. I think they look more period correct vs the black mustang wheels with too big of tires to lower the truck. Paid $100 with the tires that were on them. Tires are just rollers/spares to resell and wheels are in ok condition with a few spots of rock rash but not horrible, gonna try and clean them up.

    Had to test fit and confirm the wheels fit my truck before buying -- ever wonder what a 75 Hilux looks like with a 32x11.5-15 mounted on the front???
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    In case you were wondering (like I was) the stock jeep wheels DO fit and clear on our trucks. I read the 2wd Hilux will accept wheels up to a +35mm offset, these are supposedly +32mm. As you can see they clear my new Moog/Sankei "555" ball joint:
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    And dismounted:
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    I think I'm going to use a 205/70-15 or a 205/75-15 for my final tire once I clean these wheels up. Seems like a close size with what others have. I'm considering adding some red to the wheels somehow. The truck will eventually be white.
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