I noticed that the truck has been acting diffrent as far as performance, I have no bottom end tourqe and it wants to stall out when you let off the gas to fast. The other thing I noticed that the truck lunges at low RPM but smooths out at higher RPM. So from having this type of motor before I assumed the timming chain guides had broke, wellll come to find out throu looking at all of the old paper work that came with the truck including the 60,000 mile paper work from Toyota, the timming chain has never been replaiced. So I took the valve cover off last night and the guides were fine but while I was setting the motor to TDC Inoticed that when the cam gear was on the mark the crank had over shot the mark about 10 degrees so I reached down to the crank pullys and was able to rotate it back to TDC with out the came gear moving, so I turned it some more untill it stopped and I noticed that I can rotate the crank almost an inch befor the chain even started to move. So I came to the conclusion that the chain is stretched. So the timming chain has 282,000+ miles on the original timming chain. To back up this theory I was looking at the head bolts and all of the other bolts that are required to remove the timming chain have never been touched by any body since assembly, the valves have been worked on but nothing else. So next weekend I will be installing a new chain set and seals in the whole motor.
change it out and it will run like a totally different truck. while your at it might as well change the rest of the belts too
Well guys I started to pull apart the block last night and I was curious about somthing, the thermostat, I was wondering if it went bad and come to find out that the original factory installed was still in it , I thought great I wonder what the water passeges looked like, they accualy look good I was surprised. I will take pics of all of the parts later.
since you have the thermostat out i would go ahead and change it. i would also flush the cooling system too. at most it would run you around $30 but it's good insurance.
While you've got it apart, buy new headbolts. Its a good idea, just more insurance, because the stock ones could be stretched at this point. I replaced mine, they're only $25 shipped from EngnBldr.
Well after I pulled the head I took a look at the cylinders and the cross hatching was still there with little to no were on the motor. It looked like the rings have not fully seated. But I did notice a crack in the block between the number 1 and number2 cylinder comming from a water gernal strait through the head bolt and strait to the outside of the block. So when I put the head bolt back in I put on thread sealer to seal the crack. It is only a hair line crack so it should be fine. I also got a new water pump and a new thermastat. I have about half of the block put together now I hope to have it finished tomarrow.
i would start saving your money for a short block. if its cracked now it will get worse. you might be able to get it repaired if it isn't too bad, but the only way to know for sure it to take it to an engine builder.
Aliight Guys im going to have to replace my timing chain on my 87 22r carburated engine with 200000 and this thing runs great with no leaks and has never had a oil pan or timing chain cover off. What I was wondering is what would be the easier way of chainging it out? Head or oil pan and by the way its 2wd with power steering and air conditioning?
When I had my head gasket and head replaced, I requested the mechanic, who was a friend of my uncle, to replace it. However he did not because he inspected it and explained that mine was in such a good condition, I could probably run until 300,000 miles without any trouble. Personally, I'd rather be safe than sorry, so when I get my dashpot on my 22RE (apparently our fuel injected, manual transmissions got them to comply with our emissions) replaced, I might ask how much he would charge me for it, maybe get the valve cover and intake manifold painted while I was at it. Of course $$$!
Interesting thread as I've recently noticed that my engine feels a little 'tired' even with only 124K on her she is 24 years old so its not unexpected. A friend tole me to change the timing chain as well noting its probably 'stretched' after all these years, he said it will run like a champ with a new timing chain. What else should I do while in there? Timing chain, valves adjusted, new valve cover gasket...what else? Thanks, OJ
Well I guess I don't need a timing chain, I just checked the POs records and he changed the timing chain about 6 yrs ago & 25K ago. I do have a bad ticking noise and the paperwork even back then noted that he needed rocker arm assembly - is this something I could do while adjusting the valves?
Don't use a feeler gauge to adjust them because if they are the originals through time they were a grouve in the rocker, then the valve is now resessing it self in the rocker hence the ticking sound. So adjust the valves by rocking the rockers in the right sequence and tighten it to were it feels like the right clearence or use a dial gauge.