Performance Distributors have long been the leader in H.E.I. style ignitions for many applications, one of which being their model for the Toyota 20r and 22r motors. These ignitions are great! I can tell you first hand having purchased one a couple years ago and had time to test it extensively that I am 100% satisfied with my customer experience through Performance Distributors. The only issueIhad with the original 4 Cylinder Toyota DUI was that it was so big there was no way I was going to be able to fit one under the hood of my bodydropped 89 toyota with a 22r. The DUI was made very long so that the larger diameter distributor cap would clear the power steering pump. Many street truck owners are probably not attached to theirpower steering or not runnngany to begin with, so to me just shortening up the DUI makes perfect sense. There is also a possibility of running the power steering pump in the stock alternator location and running a 1 wire alternator on the passenger side bottom, but this would require the fabrication of some custom brackets as there is no one currently offering these. I contacted Steve Davis at www.PerformanceDistributors.com who was very open to the idea of a shorter DUI. I think it is awesome that as a company they are so involved in the development of new parts, rather than looking for cheaper ways to make their stuff overseas or something, they make high quality parts here in the U.S. and they continue to develop and add parts to their already extensive line. He could more easily have turned a deaf ear to my ideas of a DUI to fit bodydropped toyotas, but instead he made the idea a reality! Here's a look at the new DUI side by side with the original longer style DUI.

I know some of you are thinking "Jeez, that thing is still huge!", but check out how it gained the vital amount of hood clearance.

The shorter DUI made all the difference and opened up the option of running a DUI on bodydropped 4 cylinder Toyota trucks. The DUI is a excellent ignition. Far superior in performance to the stock stuff, and the simple 1 wire hook up without the need to run an external ignitor and coil is a huge improvement and really simplifies engine bay wiring. I will be posting a full write up covering the simple installation procedures involved soon. I recommend these ignitions whole heartedly. I hope you will all consider one for your build.

 

Now thats way more practical than the first HEI.

Any idea how much, Im interested...

 

349 for the street/strip version and 425 for the race one... Cheaper than an LCE distributor and MSD combo... I say go for it!

 

The D.U.I. makes way more sense for these trucks in my opinion than an MSD ignition. I have installed both and the MSD was way more complicated wiring than the stock ignition. The D.U.I. greatly simplifies wiring, requiring only one wire, it is much cleaner than the stock ignition setup. The only time I could see the MSD being better than the D.U.I. would be on full on race motors routinely running over 8000 rpm, and that is not an issue of concern on any of our trucks. I hope you decide to give the D.U.I. a shot. If you do be sure to let us know how it works out!

Here is an interesting article I found with some D.U.I. dyno test information. This was on a 400 motor and the 2 hp gain is a little misleading, the noticeable power gains throughout the rpm range feels much more substantial than that. Low rpm torque is also improved, you can bog it down lower in a given gear and maintain power and in higher gears you can keep up the power to make it up hills without having to grab a gear.

http://www.circletrack.com/techarticles/ctrp_0708_distributor_dyno_test/dui_ignition.html

 

i hated the way the long ones looked.


now im thinking about it.



got a pic looking down at the motor with the hood open?


like this one

 

Please forgive the work in progress pics of my engine, but here's one kinda like that.

The only downside with these shorter models would be for people planning to run power steering. This style of D.U.I. will hit the power steering pump in it's stock location. You will either need to go with the longer style D.U.I. or use a custom power steering and alternator bracket. I would highly recommend the D.U.I. paired with a one wire alternator for the ultimate in engine wiring simplicity. You can't beat a high performance one wire charging system paired with a one wire ignition system.

 

that looks SICK! I like.

 

your motor looks great, air filter and no tools sitting on the valve cover




the shorter shaft is better, but it still kinda looks like a basket ball on top of a pencil.



since your incontact with DUI, can they make a super short/flush mount version, like the stock unit? or is there a reason to have the extra long shaft?


kinda toying with the idea of having a machine shop shorten it for me, but a warrenty is nice.

would like one that sits as close to the head as the stock one does, dont care about power steering on this motor, plus when i go to a manual rack on the celica i could go for one.

 

i think it looks like crap. its to big and HEI sucks on a chevy and it sucks on a toy as well. my msd wasnt hard to install and the true power gains are way better than a hei hands down, plus the msd 6al has a built in timming retard for nos and turbo aps. cold starting is 50 percent better than stock or hei. and best of all the coil choices are great with so many to chose from.

 

Wow, thanks for the kind words about my new ignition install!

Could you enlighten us as to your background with D.U.I. ignitions that you are basing this comparison off of, because that's what the thread you are posting in is about, a new compact form of the 4 Cylinder Toyota D.U.I. I personally have installed one MSD ignition and 3 D.U.I.'s and I am now what you could call a repeat D.U.I. offender, since I have one on the '79 and the '89.

This, like many statistics you can find posted on the internet, sounds to me to have been pulled completely out of thin air. Are you trying to say that the D.U.I. and the stock ignition system perform the same on cold starts? I don't know where you are getting your information from, but if there is any factual data behind it, you should post up some links.

Why would I need to choose another coil? There is a 50,000 volt coil integrated right into the cap of my D.U.I. You say my D.U.I. is too big? If you put your stock distributor, coil, and MSD box in a pile, that crap would be way bigger than my compact D.U.I., plus you'd have enough wire to make up a nice little rats nest so add that to the pile. To me, when it comes to engine wiring, less is more. The D.U.I. not only requires only one wire to run, it also eliminates stock components and wiring making for the ultimate in engine wiring simplicity. Maybe some people like a lot of wires, I like a lot of performance.

 

i put one of those on my old 77, ran like a raped ape could kick the ass end out around corners no problem BUT the damn thing stuck out way too far, I couldnt get the truck to pass smog with it on either. Where the Toy and Chev parts mated came lose and it was throwing it off. The other great thing was I could drive my truck in the rain with cut inner fenders again I would love to put on on my 83 but it has power steering and I dont want the longer one after my first experience, let along I cant imaging it would be good for the distributor sticking out like that and bouncing around offroad.

crappy old cell phone pic...

 

could you theoretically use the long style DUI, run PS, and then have a bracket to hold up the DUI? for supportive reasons.

 

crap I cant spell today lol, I suppose you could fab up one, Id like to hear if anybody else has or had the problem I did where the shafts meet and mess up the advance

 

I know what you mean about the longer D.U.I. sticking out too far and being concerned that the vibrations from wheeling might throw off the timing. I am not fond of the really long shaft either. When I first inquired about a shorter D.U.I. these were issues that I brought up along with the goal of fitting under a body dropped hood. I did ask for one right by the block as ShoNuff was describing (actually what I requested was a 1" space for the dipstick and to get a wrench in on the hold down clamp), but if that wasn't possible for some reason I asked for the shortest possible configuration. I don't know what the limiting factor was in shortening up the shaft.

While I suppose a person could build a bracket to brace the shaft of the longer style D.U.I., it would be more beneficial in my opinion to move the alternator to the passenger side bottom (while swapping in a high amp 1 wire alternator preferably), using a custom bracket. The power steering could then be moved to the lower drivers side and still be able to use the stock power steering lines while making room for a shorter D.U.I. I tried to get Steve Davis into the idea of making and distributing a bracket set for this but he said he isn't looking for big numbers on bracket sales. I would make and sell some brackets like this myself but I don't have the means to distribute them really or a cnc cutter of any kind to cut them out with. Even a simple cnc plasma setup could probably work for small scale production.

As far as the timing thing, were you running both gaskets? The D.U.I. has a groove machined for a stock style o-ring as well as a gasket that goes on the surface of the block. The only time I had problems like you described with the longer shaft on my 4x4 was when I ran it with only the o-ring. With the paper gasket it has worked fine. I don't much care for that type of hold down clamp setup, but it is what they use on a whole bunch of GM vehicles so I guess it is adequate for most applications. The hold down clamp is the one weak point of the system I would have to say. There are other hold down options on the market that would work, but I haven't tried any of them out yet.

http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/stor...3+13+1147708&searchTerm=hold+down+distributor

The Moroso one looks better strength wise as far as the plate, but a stud would be even better.

 

the problem I had was the clamp held the lower part of the distributor tight like it should, where they put the 2 together with the pin is where mine would turn just enough to throw the timing off. We would test the truck and go run it around the block, retest and get totally different numbers. I also had to trim the clamp a little, it wouldnt even fit in the grove. I let it go with my old truck when it sold other wise I would have bitched to them about it.