so on my way to work this morning about ten minutes into my drive my charge light came on and my fuel and temp gages stopped working plus my heater shut off
now hears the other part it will still start and drive all the lights work along with the wipers...and i also changed the alt. and that didnt help
so if anyone can guide me in the right ditection that would be sweet

thanks in advance

 

I have been having this exact same issue myself. My charge light is on, and my gas and temp gauges sometimes work and don't work. My fan will not run either, but everything else is good.

If you track this down, let me know. I haven't had the time to diagnose it, and drive it as is for now, since it is not my daily.

http://www.toyotaminis.com/forum/showthread.php?t=2959

 

sounds like a fusible link blew.


time to bust out a test light and verify that all the wires connected to the pos terminal actually have power after about 6in.


would also double check that ALL fuses are good on both sides and that both sides of the fuse connectors (read: all 4) are getting power.




secret tip about fusible links:

its a wire of a certain gauge and composition designed to blow (aka melt) at a certain rating, similar to a slow blow fuse but even slower in burning.

VW used em too, and the color codes are the same. so dont ask the shmuck behind the counter for a green 78 toyota fusible link, ask for a green VW fusible link, or find it on the shelf yourself.

 

ok so after i got home from work i started to look around for the problem and came across a blown heater fuse put a new one in and all my gauges started to work again and the charge light turned off i just dont get it
electrical is not my thing


and sho the only fusable link i found was behind the gauge cluster couldnt find any others

 

the fusible links should be within 6in of the pos batt terminal. if you dont have them or a equivlent you have issues.

for a 77

 

I'm having similar issues. My gas gauge hasn't worked in over a year, and my temp gauge started working only intermittently just a few weeks back but my heater fan works just fine.

My alternator fried on a long drive yesterday (30 miles west of Ellensburg, WA) over 200 miles from my overnight destination (Post Falls, ID). (I know it's toast as the shaft is sloppy and rough, and all the magic smoke leaked out). Through sheer dumb luck I had a spare in the back of the truck and swapped it on, but it apparently wasn't working so I decided to limp along as far as I could. (at least I had something to keep belt tension for the water pump). Apparently a coil doesn't take much power because I made it to my destination on the battery and still had power to start the engine without effort. Unfortunately I have another 250 miles or so to get HOME. The battery is sitting on a charger now.

I replaced the alt and regulator with new units, but the light won't turn off. All fuses in the fuse block are OK, as is the fusible link under the dash. The wiring diagram above shows a FL from the battery to the starter, but all I have is the 2ga. cable going there. There IS a wire leading from the Pos. terminal and spliced to two wires (red w/black stripe[possibly blue, hard to tell], and white) that lead into the wiring harness though, but I have no idea what they're for...can't seem to find em on the above diagram.

Any help would be appreciated. I NEED to get home today as I'm supposed to meet a man to consult about some dozer work on my land. If I can't get this figured, I'll probably have to just roll the dice and run home on the battery. I mad 220 miles yesterday...I SHOULD be good for 250 today...especially with a fresh charge on the battery.

 

Update:

I checked all the wiring terminals at the back of the alternator and decided to go ahead and replace them as several were frayed. The previously mentioned wire going from the battery into two other wires is good (no soft spot/breaks detectable) but it was also frayed at the terminal so I cut it off (broke it off actually as there were only a few strands holding it on), put its own terminal on and reattached it to the main cables terminal via the clamp bolt.

All of this had no effect.

Neg side voltage drop tests good. Positive side voltage drop test is bad, but I can't seem to track down what's happening.

GRRrrr....