My first Toyota build

Discussion in '1989-1995 Build-Up/Project Threads' started by LVStreetterror, Sep 30, 2016.

  1. LVStreetterror

    LVStreetterror Newbie

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    This may take some time, I am off to a good start. There is not much to see yet, but I can say it will be built with nice parts. This 91' came with a few decent upgrades and few I need to get rid of. I was happy to see a nice pair of torsion bars but it has a mono leaf rear and blocks (gotta replace that stuff asap). I think what sold me on it was the set of Volk/Rays 3 piece wheels with new tires. I am impressed with the HID conversion headlamps and LED's for every other bulb as well. The 4Runner front clip looks clean but turns out it was rigged together and needs some proper attention to be corrected. The worst part about this purchase has to be the engine. It knocked so bad I almost passed up buying the truck at all. But I thought to myself that this was my chance to own a Toyota since its problems made the initial purchase so cheap. I imagined it's little 4 cylinder would be cheap to rebuild..... I wanted it to last and did not want a year long project on my hands. So I planned to build a reliable truck with it's factory intended powerplant instead of an exotic engine swap. I found out real quick that an engine swap would have been cheaper and of course faster.... Oh well maybe next time.

    I wanted good parts and happened to be in the area so I stopped in to visit the staff at LCE in Havasu and came home with enough stuff to completely over build the bottom end. My original block and everything inside of it was mismatched and looked like sh!t so I opted for all new stuff. From LCE's stock I picked out a set of pistons & rings, a block, a crank, H-beam rods, and a complete set of Clevite bearings. I ordered a cylinder head with oversized valves, a bigger cam and a port job from Engbldr. Then found a good deal on an OSK timing set to finish the assembly. The only parts I am reusing from the original engine are the oil pump drive gear and the oil pan bolts. I still may buy the ARP stud kit and run a MLS head gasket but I have not found the kit cheap enough to afford it yet.. I will try to snap a few pictures during this process but for now this will have to do.

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    Last edited: Oct 8, 2016
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  2. twizted1

    twizted1 Addict

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    Location:
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    WELCOME! Is that primer or a flat red paint?: looks good on there and the wheels are clean too!!
     
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  3. LVStreetterror

    LVStreetterror Newbie

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    Thank you. Hard to believe but the previous owner bought 3 cases of Red spray-on Plasti-Dip ($300+) then proceeded to add over a 100lbs. to the truck with a few dozen coats of it. I would be tempted to leave it that way if there had been better prep. But since the jams were not done and whats there will likely peel once I start driving it, I am going to strip it and have it painted. He did not even remove the 4 runner fender decals first....
     
  4. LVStreetterror

    LVStreetterror Newbie

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    I finished the bottom end and installed my Engbldr big valve head. I decided that I wanted a better timing cover and water pump to match the Aisin oil pump. I was able to find an oem Aisin timing cover and Aisin water pump from Rockauto for $148 shipped. I will post some more pictures soon.
     
  5. BatryOpratedBoy

    BatryOpratedBoy Member

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    1992 Toyota 2x4 Brave Little Toaster
    Yes!!!! Need more pics lol. Welcome aboard!!!
     
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  6. LVStreetterror

    LVStreetterror Newbie

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    [​IMG]
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    The timing cover was .020" too tall so I had to improvise decking it down to match the block. It was too tall to fit in my bench top mill and no local machine shop was willing to do it for less then $60. So I ended up doing it myself with 300, 600, and 800 grit sand paper and flat granite slab.
     
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  7. Mark

    Mark Newbie

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    Good looking head. Sounds like your going about it the right way. I used compete off road (low speed technical stuff. Lots of mud and rocks). I always used the early '80s trucks because of the axle arrangements and tougher 4 speed transmission. Recently I built one for the street. A complete, frame off rebuild. Lots of work! I know what you mean about the money. Takes a lot of it.
     

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  8. LVStreetterror

    LVStreetterror Newbie

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    I ordered a really nice radiator for a 91 3.0l after reading on here it would fit...... That is not the case. The radiator that was delivered is about 4" too tall. Anyone know of a larger capacity radiator that "will" fit in my truck??
     
  9. Orlando Muniz

    Orlando Muniz Enthusiast

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    from my understanding is should fit just fine....do you have any pictures of the radiator???
     
  10. LVStreetterror

    LVStreetterror Newbie

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    I assure you there is no way this radiator will fit in this 2wd truck with a hood on it. It sticks up above the core support by approx. 4".. I will snap a picture to show you what I mean.
     
  11. tacobo670

    tacobo670 Addict

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    lmao
    bruh! u buy all those parts from LCE and engnbldr and cant buy head studs and mls hg? lol
    just kidding. sweet build man! great job on the t-cover. that cyl head looks immaculate
    the sand paper technique, i use the same style when swapping out hg's. cheaper than machine shop! what cam u gonna run? (if u dont mind me asking)
     
  12. LVStreetterror

    LVStreetterror Newbie

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    About those ARP studs, I spoke with several of the major 22re builders and all of them explained that studs are not needed unless boost or N2O are in the plans. I may regret that choice down the road, but I hope not.. Anyone else have any input on those? Tacobo670, are you using those studs? Best price I found online was $141 shipped for the ARP stud kit and there are mls gaskets that range from $30-$150

    I have the 268 cam that Engbldr sells. Just to be clear, I didn't deck the head with sandpaper just the timing cover to match the decked block from Lce. That picture of the head was right out the box the day it arrived. I did make all sorts of hasty over priced purchases so far. The used emissions equipment I had to buy really hurt. All of that impacted the budget for this build and slowed me down a bit. I will however make whatever corrections necessary as soon as I can afford them. I have an extra cylinder head with 2k miles of use since new that I will try to sell. Then I may be able to buy the stud kit and another head gasket. The radiator situation set me back as well but I will get this truck sorted.
     

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    Last edited: Oct 16, 2016
  13. Justin Danger

    Justin Danger Enthusiast

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    The way I figure it is that the studs are insurance. You can torque em 30 lbs more than stock bolts, and they can be re-used. You can dump as much money in an engine as you want to give it power, but that doesn't matter if you blow your head gasket. Same thing with metal timing chain guides, not things to make your rig go, but to keep it going.
     
  14. LVStreetterror

    LVStreetterror Newbie

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    Heads up this is just a rant:

    Radiator number two showed up today.... It will not fit properly either, but for a different clearance issue.... WTF? Two different sellers two totally different radiator styles, both advertised to fit my year truck and the 2nd one even applied to my 2.4l 22re engine.
     
  15. Lowtide671

    Lowtide671 Enthusiast

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    Got a pic of what exactly isn't fitting about it??
     
  16. LVStreetterror

    LVStreetterror Newbie

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    I will try to get a picture of it, but to put it in words, the lower outlet on this 2nd radiator is real close to the radius arm mount. When the hose is mounted it makes contact against the mount. Also with the hood mounted and the radiator cap installed I have less then 1/4" clearance to the underside of the hood. The original radiator had a lot more clearance everywhere so I do worry that a good hood slam could end up cracking this plastic tank/waterneck.
     
  17. LVStreetterror

    LVStreetterror Newbie

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    [​IMG]
    Almost finished. I still need to find and buy a good looking wire loom. Ordered drop spindles this morning so I can regain some function from the Sway Away torsion bars. Had to get the battery warrantied in this truck and my car. Both Optimas (1 redtop and 1 yellow top) both less then 1 year old and both have been used for less then 2k miles.
     
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  18. LVStreetterror

    LVStreetterror Newbie

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