Yeah I'm using the old shocks for now till I get the rear where I want it then I'll measure for shocks. They are belltech mighty max lowering coil springs 4270, and yes with these springs u have to remove the bump stops and the sway bar.

 

Not sure on what brand they were already on the truck when I bought it, but I'll see if there's any markings on em and let you know

 

DAAAAAMN looking good. wow that came out great

 

Not sure what brand but here's a pic

 

Today I folded back the pinch inside the inner front fender


And removed some leafs outta the rear




And here's how its currently sitting, and of course wouldn't u know it one tire was leaking air outta on of the cracks time for new tires I guess

 

Should pull that bottom leaf and throw the overload back on.

 

The three leafs that are left in are all clamped, I didn't know what leaf combo to use, everyone in here seems to have a different leaf pack then me, maybe cuz mines a long bed?

 

Usually the main leaf, 2nd largest and the short thick one (overload) all the way at the bottom.

 

looks great man, tucks the tire up front nicely!!

 

Thanks brotha, it's gettin there

 

Hey guys, I've been having some problems with my brakes and I've been searching around, and found some info just need some clarification. Since it has a disc brake front swap already I'm lookin into puting a 83 master and booster to hopefully help with the problem, I found the 83 2wd master but there's 2 different boosters and don't know which one to use


Which one? What's the difference?

 

I'm not sure about brake upgrades but I would look and see if we can use the 4wd one that everyone "upgrades" to. Dunno about 2wd specs but the stock small version for 4wd is 13/16" or something like that and the upgrade is to 1" version from a 1-ton, v6 and I think automatic rigs. Land cruiser MC is also common one to use too I think. Lastly maybe a dual diaphragm booster upgrade can be had to finish things out? I dunno the difference between the ones you found - maybe has different stroke length?

Interested in seeing what you come up with. I'd always want better brakes.

 

Well one says one ton, and the other says "except one ton" im going to guess the part for the one ton would give more braking power

 

I know a bunch of my buddys use that upgrade on their rock crawlers but don't know if that'll work on a hilux, I don't wanna order the wrong parts if they don't fit.

 

One is bigger then the other and idk if the one ton one will fit or work on a hilux, might just get the except one ton one. Wish people just listed part numbers of what they used on there swap.

 

I just decided to call and speak a guy at Marlin Crawler, who sells a lot of the 1" bore master cylinders to the 4wd crowd. The guy said it will fit any 79-95 pickup whether 2wd or 4wd, but it does not fit on the 78 and earlier hilux pickups, this is due to a different bolt pattern to mount the sucker on the booster. I think our older Hilux trucks have 2 mounting holes that are horizontally aligned, the newer 1" MC has 4 holes. He did say it's possible to make it work if you've got some fabrication skills.

Now I'm curious to know if you can just simply swap over the booster to a 90s dual diaphragm booster so that you can use a 1" MC. Guess we'd have to know the specs of the studs that mount on the firewall.

BTW - what is the brake problem you're experiencing? My brake problem is they grab REALLY well and it's very easy to lock up all 4.

 

Brake pedal goes all the way to the floor then finally starts slowing, thought it was possibly from a lack of bleeding the brakes cuz its done it since I bought it.
I'm thinkin master and maybe booster?
Disc on front with stock drum master problem?
Booster? Or booster and master?
Any help would be appreciated

 

Yeah id guess master cylinder before booster if you already bled the brakes. Pretty common for brake and clutch MC seals to fail with time. I dunno how common booster is to fail but I'd think you'll still have pressure and maybe a super stiff pedal because there's no longer any assistance to press it.

 

Got a master and booster coming from a 81 toyota, my question is do I need to run the stock proportioning valve up by the booster or can I just put it all together and add a inline one later?

 

Maybe someone else knows but I want to say all the newer trucks have a load sense proportion valve located at the rear axle. I don't see why you cannot use either or even aftermarket, as long as you have one to differentiate front and rear brake pressure for proper braking