They don't make 3 inch drop spindles huh

 

I'm not sure but I've never looked for them either.

 

I have tried magnaflow and borla on the same 22re. The magna has a deep tone and borla is quiet, stock cam sounds like rice. I have a crower stg 3 boost cam which doesn't sound like rice,

 

@lilred93 I'll look into I have so much research to do haha

@williyumz what do you have on the truck now exhaust wise

 

@/93tilinfinity/, I'm using a no name header, 2.25 piping to a trd muffler which is made by borla.

 

No cat williyumz?

 

I'm running a stock manifold with 2" pipe back to the longest glass pack I could find. Really loud, sounds good at idle and mid range and screams at full throttle! But it gets old and I'm going to be swapping motors and changing it all soon.

 

I can't say for the Toyota, but I have a Borla, Saleen cat-back on my Explorer and I love it. It gives it a low rumble that seems to get more noticeable as it revs. The part I like is that it isn't loud or "droney" in the inside or obnoxious outside, but you can definitely tell it isn't a stock exhaust. Back in the day I had a straight pipe and then a glass-pack on my 4 cylinder escort. The straight pipe was LOUD! The glass-pack only slightly less loud. It was cool for about a week. Going up to the mountains, red-lineing through tunnels and listening to the pops and growls as it decelerated. But after that, you realized if you go anywhere on the highway for more than fifteen minutes you ended up with a splitting headache. Honestly, I think the best way to go is a stock exhaust set-up with either an electric or manual cut-out to whatever noisemaker you like. (Straight pipe, glass-pack, ect.) That way you can make noise when you want and be civilized when on a trip.

 

That's an interesting idea. It'd be fun to play around with that hooked up. Just a flipped switch away.

 

If you want 3 inches in the front you can get the DJM lower control arms. 1988 – 1996 Toyota Pick UP | DJM Suspension | DJM Suspension
Or you could get the spindles and then flip the BallJoint.

If your going 4 inches or less in the rear just do blocks, no need for lowered leafs. Stay away from aluminum blocks. Back in the 90's I had a set of 4 inch blocks on my 82 s-10 and drove it HARD! Had a friend with a 924S Porsche and another with a first gen RX7. Road carving was our past time. Never had any problems.

 

For suspension performance what would be the best? Control arms or drop spindles?

 

I don't know if there would really be a difference. I guess the spindle is the more minor change. It just raises the mounting shaft that the wheel/hub assembly mounts too. So there is absolutely no suspension geometry change at all. Of course, this is only good for 2 inches.

If you flip the upper and lower ball joint mounts, theoretically the distance between the upper and lower would be unchanged and therefore still shouldn't effect suspension geometry. This would give you an additional inch.

The LCA is a modified piece that raises the ball joint mounting plate by 3 inches. This in turn raises the spindle, which would then raise the upper arm. I believe this would technically change the suspension geometry. Now, all alignment specs can be put back to factory with this arm.

As for a performance difference I'm not really sure. I'd believe leaving the stock suspension geometry would be the most beneficial.