What are the bearing clearances? crankshaft end play? are the bearing caps in the correct order 12345 from front to rear? even with the pistons and rings installed the assembly should rotate with not a lot of resistance if everything is correctly clearanced.

 

i know the caps are in the correct order but i do not have any of the clearance specs.... i had the machinist at the shop take care of all the technical when i sent him all the parts. im thinking i may just send it back to him, explain what happened and see if he will assemble the bottom end for me since he has all the tooling to check these clearnces and make adjustments if need be.

i dont think i had any issues of this sort when i build the last motor for another truck and its done fine.... im gonna try and torque the caps down to half the spec number and see what happens....

 

figured out one of the bearing caps were binding the shaft and got easier to turn once i snuged them down to torque spec. everything has gone smooth thus far after.

thanks for the help NOOK

 

that second last post i read somehow made me really scared when i read it. it was just like, omg what's gunna happen?!

 

thats what i did...... as i whent along i spun it to check how it was all seating. the issue i was having was i didnt have a common tight point on any of the bolts so it was unevenly putting tension on some of the caps untill i spec'ed them then once evened out, it smoothed it all out.

as of now, the pistons and rods are now in and torqued down. everything turns smoothly as it should.

Nook, any tips you would suggest on initial break in when i first start the motor? last i did one we let it warm up to temp and revved it up and down to wear it in at different rpm's and such. once it was at operating temp we let it cool back down to complete cold then repeated the process about 3 times.... then drove it around the block a few times going through the gears with light throttle load.... i think at about 500 miles we dropped the oil and opened up the pan to recheck the rods and caps........ (and make sure nothing magically found its way to the bottom of the pan )

 

Glad to hear its coming along smoothly, On my builds I get everything set, buttoned up and ready to drive, I use a pressure tank to preoil the engine, but if not pull the sparkplugs so it spins easier, have the oil pump prelubed so it will pick up a prime easier, and spin it over until it builds oil pressure then put the plugs back in and its ready to run.
Once it fires I'll bring the rpm up some so it pumping good pressure, make sure nothing is leaking, the radiator is full and take it out and hammer down, run it hard through the gears back off on commpression, go through the gears hard, not taking it to redline but pushing it good, just avoid lugging it down.
Lugging it down starves the cylinders of oil, backing off on compression helps pull oil into the cylinders to lube it good, running it up hard makes high crankcase pressure pushing the rings out against the cylinders to help seat them in, basicaaly drive it like I stole it. Log some miles on it watching oil pressure, water temp and after 15-20 miles I'll dump the oil and filter and call it good. If somethings gonna break it'll break, if I screwed something up inside it'll let me know by then
More work dropping the pan later to check stuff but if assembled right should be no reason to have to go in there.
Have fun.

 

hmm. i like your method better. seems logical that anything that does break will within the "break in" period.

ill give it a shot. thanks

 

some progress shots from my rebuild

block got bored, decked, replugged with new freeze plugs, tanked, then painted.


Shot with X400,D580Z,C460Z at 2009-05-22


Shot with X400,D580Z,C460Z at 2009-05-22


Shot with X400,D580Z,C460Z at 2009-05-22

new pistons going in....

Shot with X400,D580Z,C460Z at 2009-05-22


Shot with X400,D580Z,C460Z at 2009-05-22


Shot with X400,D580Z,C460Z at 2009-05-22


Shot with X400,D580Z,C460Z at 2009-05-22


Shot with X400,D580Z,C460Z at 2009-05-22


Shot with X400,D580Z,C460Z at 2009-05-22


Shot with X400,D580Z,C460Z at 2009-05-22

waiting to clean up the timing cover i salvaged out of Manny's old blown 22R from his 82...... apparently it had a newer laser block in it so the timing cover fit right on to mine. once i get the cover cleaned up the water and oil pumps will go in as well as the oil pan. just waiting on the flywheel from LCE to come in so i can drop in the block and connect it to the tranny.

 

Oooops!!!





Looking bro! X10 on the "drive it like you stole it" break-in theory...

 

yea yea...... i noticed it as i was telling my buddy to "hey take a shot of this" when i realized i slid the piston in backwards

after i thought about what you said it only made clear sence.... it hinted to what i was doing with my other motors only better though.

 

Hey the flywheel comment brought this up and I'm sure its late but on ebay there is a EXEDY clutch & FIDANZA 9.5 lbs fywheel for 395. and 35. shipping its the best deal I've seen and am presently saving for it.

 

Yea I didn't have my coffee yet @ work...

Meant to say: Looking good bro!

*quick question*

I can't see it on the pics but, are the rods/caps facing the right way with the little bump facing towards the front of the motor? Just thought I'd ask since you said it had a hard time turning by hand.

 

yea, theyre in there facing the right way as well as sequenced too. it spins as easy now as i remembered the last motor i put together.

as for the flywheel... i bought mine through LC engineering for $304 shipped. I had found a Fidanza on ebay for $299 shipped and was told to talk to LCE since they have price matched things before..... i did and they told me they would match the $290 price tag from the Fidanza one and ship it through UPS for $14. a little more in shipping but well worth it IMHO.

You know........ this is why i keep coming back to LCE. I know their stuff is a bit pricier than most everything else you find but, i know im gonna get top quality parts and their customer service keeps being top notch as well. Fidanza is a well known and respected product im sure but LCE beat em out this time around.

Evo....... ill get you the link for the fidanza fly i found....... $400+ bucks is pretty steep considering what i just paid for mine.......

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/FIDA...c0.m245&_trkparms=72:1205|65:12|39:1|240:1318

edit..... sorry, didnt see it was $395 for both clutch AND flywheel! thats a real good deal!

 

so here's the bill iv'e racked up thus far...... (figure ill total it up and it might make me feel better to know im keeping track )

engnbldr master rebuild kit - $229 shipped.

machine shop work - $224 otd.

lightened flywheel - $304 shipped.
___________
$757 total thus far.


ive yet to buy the head and cam from engnbldr..... that'll pop another $580 bux out of my wallet. that'l top me at around $1337. there's still the matter of a cooling fan, timing cover, gauges, and all the other little nickle and dime things i know ill run into.

 

u got a good deal on the machine work there what head u thinking about getting from engnblder? my kit was like 460 shipped to me but i got new cam, water pump, ss valves, pro head bolts, and rv spings

 

i want to get the street/rv head with the OS SS valves and a 270/430 cam they just recently came out with.

 

hey alex im in chula vista right now. any way i can come see the ride tmw?

 

sorry i didnt get back to you sooner man...... next time yer coming down let me know and we can get together and check out eachothers' trucks

 

yeah im running that 270/430 cam and os stainless steel valves from engnbldr... it gave it a bit more pep but i was also burning alot of oil before the build so my rings were shot... lol so i am sure that also helped give it alot of pep