NOTE: Removal of the fuel cell will vary from generation to generation. But the restoration options (part II and III) of this write up will apply to all. This was off of a 1972.5 (RN20). There wasn't much detailed information on-line on how to actually remove my tank, especially without removing the bed, so I had to wing it. At this point, I'm assuming you've already disconnected your battery and drained your fuel tank! 1. Weeks leading up to this task, I took the time to spray all the bolts that held the tank up with PB Blaster. I sprayed both the top and bottom sides of the bolts, and I mean - soak em'. Unless you were one of the lucky ones who's PO had already removed the tank for one reason or another, it's safe to assume the threads are filled with rust and grime. Mine looked untouched for over three decades. I probably used 3-4 cans on all (8) bolts. The fourth and final can was used during the actual removal. 2. Which (8) bolts? This particular tank, which sits on the driver's side of the bed, is held up by what I will refer to here as "braces". There are (3) of them. Two of them look like this. One on each end of the tank. Those top three holes are what bolts to the bed. Those bottom three are nuts (welded in place) bolt down to the tank. Each side of your tank has a ledge that has three holes. This is where the bottom of the brace bolts down to. You only need to remove the bolts that connect to the tank. It is NOT necessary to remove the ones to the bed. It is NOT necessary to remove your bed, itself, to perform this task. If you wish to remove these braces (with the exception of the third/narrower brace - read on) for blasting, repainting, or for whatever reason, I suggest you remove them after you've got the tank out of the way, so you have more space to work with. I found PB Blaster to be a vital tool in this process, and if you cannot thoroughly spray it on more than one end of the bolt, the resistance due to rust and grime may cause you to snap them. The third brace is longer and narrower than the other two, and is located past the rear shocks. Looking at this photo, the far side of the brace has (1) bolt. It actually shares 1/3 bolts that are on the "tailgate-side" brace. Last two bolts are on the ones furthest away from the tank, closest to the tailgate. 3. Removing the bolts. With your safety goggles on, and your PB Blaster within reach, pick a bolt - any bolt - of the 8 you need to remove. A. Give both ends a blast of the PB Blaster. B. Gently, carefully, and slowly back it out. C. As soon as it fights back, blast both ends, again. D. Then gently, carefully, and slowly turn the nut back in. As if you're tightening her back up. Repeat A thru D - till your confident you can back the bolt out with ease and in one piece. (For now, till we're ready to actually lower the tank, leave a few of the bolts half-way on.) You're basically trying to brake loose all the crap that has built up on the threads for the past 30+ years. So take your time! Once I got the first bolt out and got a feel for what i was doing, the rest were cake. 4. Support the tank. Remove ALL the bolts. Lower her down just a tad, so you can reach in there to disconnect the fuel lines. 5. I then took 4-5 fluorescent paint markers and before removing any of the rubber lines, I'd mark them and their ports (both ends) with an assigned color, so I would not have a problem re-connecting everything later. Do not forget to release the one wire atop the fuel level sensor. 6. You may be tempted to cut through all the rubber lines, especially the rubber between the fuel fill neck and the tank, just to get the damn thing out of there, already. Remember now, some of this stuff may have never ever been touched before. PB Blaster will help loosen up those antique clamps. I used channel locks to gently twist free the grip of the rubber piece between the tank and the fill pipe. I personally feel it's good practice to try and keep all the rubber intact, even if it's just for measurement/comparison purposes when you go to replace them. *TO BE CONTINUED*
