I got an lce street header (Street Header Kit 2 Wheel Drive 22R/RE 1985-1995) for a 2wd and did install it. It does fit more or less, however there are two spots where it almost touches the torsion bar (I have a "sway-a-way" SWAY-A-WAY - axles, torsion bars, and shocks for trucks, cars, and off-road vehicles - Vehicle Make so it is slightly thicker) and where it touches the torsion bar "cover" at the cross member (which is welded to the frame in 2wd trucks). In addition at the torsion bar there is the u-bolt to clamp the pipe to the header. When I put a jack under the pipe and jack it up a bit it will free the torsion bar fine. for the torsion bar cover I think grinding a bit off of it will suffice. Of course I would prefer it not rattling against either, especially the torsion bar. Either way, I was wondering if someone knows about some handy ways to move an exhaust pipe up and sideways a bit. are there any bolt on devices available. I rather not weld or try to heat and bend the pipe since it only needs to be moved half an inch or less. I could probably fit some metal hook between some u bolts and then attach some rubber and hook it to the frame. If someone ever did this and found a clever solution I'd be happy to hear, thanks.
When I first started my truck I rode static, & had the same problem. I cut the three bolt flange off ,used 2 bolt flanges from LC & clocked them so not to hit!
This header only has 2 bolt flanges. Though I think I managed to clear it enough. With regards to the torsion bar I jacked up the header at the flange, then loosen all the exhaust manifold nuts, that makes it move up a tiny bit, then tighten them again. It moves it up enough to clear it sufficiently I think. Since it may only need to clear half an inch or so. The part at the crossmember where it touches the torsion bar end cap I just pulled the piped away from it a few times and that bend everything sufficiently to clear it half an inch as well. Also leaving the header jacked up over night kind of "cold sets" it slightly, which may have helped. I will see how it works out when I drive it. I have a pacesetter catback where the exhaust tip sometimes hits the shackle, but I bent it out of the way enough, half an inch or so (actually its the hangers that bend when you pull it). That was a hit an miss afair though, since if it is too far it will hit the leaf spring. ;-)
Well, I got that figured out. The U-bolt was hitting the torsion bar, without it it seemed to fit fine. At autozone I found a flat band clamp that clamps the pipe nicely without any leaks, works better than a U-bolt: Nickson/2 1/4 in. SS flat band clamp 95214 at AutoZone.com Looks like these are pretty heavy duty, you have to torque it down to about 45-60 ft lbs. The smallest size is 2 inch and they go up to 4 inch and more. I'm going to replace the U-bolt near the cat as well.
Nice dude, good work! If you lower it more (w/ torsion) will it get closer? Have you driven with it yet?
Thanks. Lowering it wouldn't affect things. Except where the tail pipe is, but that's just a special case if, like me, you'd have a larger exhaust tip (pacesetter catback or such) and a "superspring" SuperSprings Leaf Spring Stabilizer - JCWhitney In that case either the tip may rattle against the shackle or the superspring mounting hardware, unless positioned properly (i.e. push and pull the tip until it works ;-) Yes I have driven it yesterday and today to work (about 35-40 miles one way). No problems so far and it drives better as well, not a huge gain, but it feels more smooth (more power available in a wider rpm range) and pulls up hill better. With the old stock one I had to do more work keeping it within the power range, the LCE header gives a bit more torque as well as some horse power gains. This in combination with an LCE street header with a mild street cam. It really works well together. Only one slight issue that's an easy fix, when starting from a stop the pipe occasionally rattles a bit against the torsion bar end cap at the crossmember. I'll just have to pull it a bit more to free it, else I may grind a bit of metal off the cap. By the way, with the stock head, cam and exhaust "header" (don't think the stock one is called a header) it sure had some good torque. It just ran a bit out of steam in the higher rpm ranges, also it didn't sound too great at higher rpm ;-) I dare say that the LCE head, mild street cam with stock header had a bit less torque in the lower rpm ranges than stock. The new header fixed that and then some.
That's what I thought as I was typing Sweet! coould you make a exhaust note vid? Maybe a pull or two? I see...so would it have the same interference at stock height? Manifold. Bet it sounds great now! Good to hear! When you get the space you need for the header it be nice to hear 'bout how she chirps through the gears...I love my second gear chirps with just the stock motor and 205/65r15 tires!
Manifold it's caleld, duh, had a momentary brainfart there. ;-) I can get some photos of how the header was installed, don't think a video is gonna work. I started a fixing head gasket thread in the maintenance/repair section. Will add header fitment photos as well later. I'm already used to a slightly louder sound, because the pacesetter catback has a somewhat louder and deeper sound, nothing too excessive though. I know pacesetter isn't the best brand, but at the time it was the only catback kit I could get. The lce header makes it a tiny bit louder, but it has a bit of a metallic sound coming from under the truck when accelerating. I think it may be due to the flat band clamp or just because it's new. Or maybe there is a leak I didn't notice, doubt that though, I did thoroughly check and that'd sound different. But yes all in all the sound is quite pleasing. ;-) "I see...so would it have the same interference at stock height?" Yes, by the way, normally I think the torsion bars should be clear, it's just that these swa-away bars are a bit thicker, can't blame LCE for that.. After pulling the pipe outward a bit as well as the exhaust tip the occasional rattle when starting from a stop seems to be gone.
I just got my LCE header this week and plan on installing it next weekend. Its discouraging to hear after spending so much money for a part that you have to pry and grind it to fit. I guess I will give a report after I install mine.
when i got my LCE street header, it was hitting. i called them up, they had me replace all my engine and tranny mounts- was still hitting. then they said their jig for the headers had moved a tad bit and was ruining the angles. they sent me a new one. still the same problem. solution -got some exhaust wrap, wrapped the torsion bar. fixed. no banging, clunking or rattling. it has worn through the wrap by now (over 1 year) so i just have to re-wrap it. no grinding, jacking, shaving, squeezing, cut-n-measure BS.
Grinding a bit off of a flange once isnt a big deal. I ground the crap out of the flange and it still hits a tiny bit. Swapping out the bolts on the trans mount for longer ones and slipping a square of 1/4" steel bar in there to raise the tailshaft a touch will surely fix the issue. I'm slightly less than impressed with the fitment of my lce header but it is a nice unit that with some light modification is great.
grinding a little or a lot, longer bolts, steel plate "shim" ..... or just wrap the torsion bar and be done? i like the header as well, and LCE knows their sh!t but i wasnt really impressed with the craftsmanship of BOTH brand new headers. -the fitment that is.
Mine hits in both the merge collector and flange. I ground the flange back about 1/4" to clear but the merge collector isn't thick enough to grind on although I suppose I could dent it to clear. But a shim is easier and having access to a lift at will makes formerly sucktastic jobs a non event so my outlook on things has changed.
I did all the same things, cutting, re-angling, re-flange plus took a air chisel with a hammer bit and pushed my floor up and it still hit the cross member and floor
Because I saved $100 by buying the slightly used long tube header from you rather than a new shorty. Shorty headers usually have a narrow power band while long tubes will have a nice broad curve. Its not like I had to cut it apart and rebuild it to make it fit, it was a simple job.
hahaha well not everyone bought a header from me lol! most saved a $100 and gained a headache by having to fab, cut, grind, fit, sweat and a case of beer later.. lol there's about 1% of the people buying headers that will feel the different power band.. Imo if you have a choice of a 100% bolt on versus any type of fitting.. I'd go for the bolt on. Personal opinion, but like you said its not that much of a pain.
I cant see paying $500 for a header from LCE only to have it not fit 100% correctly because of bad fab work they did. That POS would be right back in the box and they would be sending me a new one that did fit.
