Alright here goes. I got a 87 with a 22RE. Has 193xxx miles and the timing chain is clacking. Finally got around to talking to my mechanic and he wants to charge $1200 to get it changed. So it looks like im going to see what other options are out there. I got a couple of options so seeing what you guys think is the best/what you guys would do.

Couple things to know/remember. I need a vehicle for work and school. I dont have days straight to work on the truck. I never put together a engine before.

1. Buy a cheap beater. Park my truck and work on it slowly, taking my time doing it between school and work.
2. Grab another engine from the junkyard/CL and just swap it in. Is this hard?
3. Let my mechanic change it out.

What you guys think. I never took a engine apart and always wanted to try fixing one. Seems like this is a good opportunity.

Also wheres a good place i can get a timing chain kit from?
Can i do it with just basic tools?

I know if i keep driving it it will break and blow up my engine, so trying to figure something out as soon as i can.
Any and all help is greatly appreciated.

 

For 1200 I could have a whole new longblock shipped to me.
timing kits usually run around $100 for most engines. Grab a chiltons/haynes/etc work over the course of a saturday.

For 1200 I could do a 5.3 v-8 from a GM swap completed or at least VERY close.

 

I just had my timing chain changed, a new head gasket and 2 valves replaced for $270 plus parts. $1200 is way too much!!!

 

Did he offer a reach around with that quote?

If you can work a wrench and screwdriver you can do this repair. You will need a pulley remover for the harmonic balancer though. This is a fairly common tool with limited uses, so many parts store will 'loan' one out to wrenchers these days. (you pay a deposit to cover the cost of the tool, which is refunded upon return of the tool in good condition). You will also need a breaker bar and (19mm?) socket to remove the crank pulley bolt.

Other than that, a basic set of metric sockets and box wrenches should do you just fine. Most of the bolts are either 10 or 12mm.

A more likely scenario is that the plastic guide rail has failed and the chain is slapping the side of the timing chain cover. While this is not catastrophic in the short term, this wear occurs RIGHT where the coolant passes through from the water pump to the block, and there is the probability that EVENTUALLY the chain will wear away the cover allowing water into the crank-case.

I would recommend getting your new timing set (and any other parts for that matter) from EPN...they are the only ones (that I know of) who offer a late model (single row) timing set with a steel guide instead of the factory plastic one. You'll never have to worry about your guide again.


As for the procedure, it's pretty straight forward. Haynes/Chilton will tell you everything you need to know. Study it (them). A single person can do this in one day if he doesn't dilly-dally around...two if he goes about it casually. Two people almost guarantees completion in a day so long as they stay on task and off the beer.***

Tips and pointers:

!!!DO NOT FORGET TO REMOVE THE HEAD-TO-TIMING-COVER-BOLT UNDER THE DISTRIBUTOR GEAR!!! This bolt resides in a 'pocket' near the front of the head, and if you have been a bad boy and allowed your oil to get black, you will not see it.

***Despite what Chiltons/Haynes will tell you, you DO NOT need to remove the head for this procedure. You can opt to loosen and lower (but not totally remove) the oil pan instead. It's not as 'easy' as removing the head, but only insomuch as the wrench angles are weird. In the long run you will save time, effort and MONEY by not removing the head (since removing the head entails removing both the intake and exhaust manifolds and all the attendant paraphernalia and gaskets). If you are careful, you wont even have to replace the oil pan gasket, though it would behoove you to have one on hand, just in case. Sometimes they get baked and brittle and no amount of care can prevent it's destruction. Single cracks can usually be 'fixed' with high temp RTV silicone. I have personally done this and it really is just as easy as it sounds.

(all photos from HERE)

 

good info Phss.

 

do it yourself man, its the easiest thing to do on the motor while its in the truck..

you dont need a pulley puller, as long as you dont have sissy women hands you can pull it off with your hands, sometime pb blaster or wd40 and a rubber mallet help.

19mm with break bar to take off the crank pulley.
I think there are 14 bolts holding the timing cover on all sized 10 and 12 and 14mm.

the front 2 bolts on the oil pan need to come off, 2 bolts on the water pipe on driver top side come out from the back they are 12mm.

There is a hidden 12mm on the head under the chain sprocket.

make sure you get a good gasket scraper and clean the cover and block, dont use the crappy replacement gaskets if you can get felpro and use good rtv.

when you replace the chain it has blue colored links so you can screw it up when aligning it. make sure you dont smash the front of the head gasket when your putting it together and dont forget the drive gear for the oil pump. make sure every bolt goes back in the same hole, some are easy to strip.

take plenty of pics,post them all and everyone will look at them and see if you made any visible mistakes..

seriously if you can order the parts they are even cheap for the good stuff at advance auto you will spent less then 120 bucks no matter what and if you got an hour a day to work on it, plan on spending 3 hours since your not to sure of yourself. really simple, I would trust my girlfriend with this task. also add 1 gallon of coolant to the parts list.

 

A more likely scenario is that the plastic guide rail has failed and the chain is slapping the side of the timing chain cover. While this is not catastrophic in the short term, this wear occurs RIGHT where the coolant passes through from the water pump to the block, and there is the probability that EVENTUALLY the chain will wear away the cover allowing water into the crank-case.
If this happens, will i need to deck the head or anything like that to fix the problem? Or just change the chain and im good to go?


After reading through what everyone has said, you guys all made good suggestions and i think this is a project that i can do on my own if i take my time. There are just a couple things holdilng me back right now. Im waiting for my funds to buy the kit, a tool set, and a repair manual book. And im also looking for a cheap beater to drive around while im working on my truck.

When i finally get started on this ill remember to not take the head off and take lots of pictures so you guys can guide me. Anyone else got any info/tips. Thank you to all those that have already posted.

 

Dang Phsss, read through your whole thread. Cant believe people get this done in a weekend. I think ill follow V8s advice and not pull the head off. Looks like it can be done without removing the head, unless it looks like it needs lots of work. Also as long as i take my time and trust myself. God...trust myself. Hhahahahaha.

Oh and from here. http://engnbldr.com/toyota_ala_carte.htm
Which do i buy. The timing set with timing cover or the 4 piece front end kit? Thanks guys

 

The timing chain cover bolts to the front (face) of the engine block. IF the guide has broken and you have serious wear on the cover, then you may want to consider replacing the cover. Otherwise you'll be OK just replacing the chain/sprockets (timing sets come with all three...chain, cam sprocket, and crank sprocket since they are all wear items).

Also note that the water pump bolts to the timing cover, and you DO NOT need to remove the pump in order to remove the cover (one of the mistakes I made). There ARE however a few (2? 3?) bolts that go through the pump to the block that will need to be removed.

That depends on whether or not you need/want to replace your cover. Penny pincher that I am, I'd get the timing kit/oil pump option, since you need to remove to cover to do the oil pump, and at almost 200K miles there's not telling when it might go out. Better safe than sorry. If you DO need (or want) to replace the cover I'd spring for the four piece set and do everything.

 

So you just changed your chain and coolant never leaked again, even though had that small grove?

Thanks for the advice on which set to buy. Im thinking maybe just the timing kit/oil pump option. Also my oils not a milkshake yet, so not as bad as yours.

 

That long thread about the 'milkshake' oil wasn't me. I just referenced the thread for the photo's, and also in case someone was interested in reading about one person's foray into the chain replacement.

I myself didn't read the whole thread, so i don't know what his actual problem was or if the timing cover R&R solved the issue.

 

my guide broke and wore through the water pump, can i get away w/ just replacing the timing chain and cover? or should it be rebuilt?

 

you dont need a rebuild just make sure you dont leave any water in your block, it will rust other important parts and you will have to do a full rebuild like me.

I wouldnt buy a timing cover. I bought one and threw it out as soon as I could get it back off... I put the beat up toyota one back on.. the new ones are such shtty aluminum and they suck... just clean the old one.

 

Phsssss, you got me on that one. Seriously thought was yours. Hahahah. Great info regardless. And yeah, if it wears through, just get the chain changed and should be good to go. Thanks for all the help guys. Still trying to find a beater though. Anyone wanna sell me a hilux, something in the 70-78 years. Hahahahahaha.

 

my other question is, if coolant gets in the oil, does it cause damage to the bearings?

 

Might want to get the block checked. Did you click on the links on the other pages? Lots of useful information in those links.

Ok i figured since i will be changing the timing chain and be in/near the engine, i want to pep it up a bit. Its a 22RE. I want it to rev faster and be quick off the line. Anyone got ideas or suggestions on how to accomplish this. Im thinking a lightened flywheel. Regear the rear end, but with what ratio? Any other options?

 

coolant does not equal oil when it comes to lubrication.

 

Lighten the flywheel (or buy one). Mildly port the head. Match the intake. Cam helps alot too. Oversized valves if you want. Play with distributor timing...Much more to do, but thats easy stuff.

 

Over sized valves, does that translate to a bigger bore?
I know i can put stiffer springs and thats suppose to help.
Also can i polish the head myself or should i take it to the shop to do that? I would think a shop is needed to match both sides.

 

Take it to a shop for the port and polish .. especially since you are asking if the valves = bore size, they are not related unless the valves are so huge theres no more room in the cylinder.

Stiffer springs can only do so much or go so far.. if you are building a nearly stock engine stick with nearly stock springs.