Custom drop blocks

Discussion in 'Suspension/Chassis' started by Radchadtrinidad, Dec 3, 2014.

  1. Radchadtrinidad

    Radchadtrinidad Member

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    Do you guys think it would be hard to make custom drop blocks? They look somewhat simple to me. My dad works at a fab shop so I could get metal either free or cheap
     
  2. jetas

    jetas Grand Toyotaholic

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    Yea you can make em yourself.
     
  3. 1lowSr5

    1lowSr5 Addict

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    4x2 quarter wall and some quarter inch plate and a half inch solid rod for the pin should do it. Anything over 3" needs a little bit of angle to keep from pulling the driveshaft to far from the transmission and causing u-joint damage. :waytogo:
     
  4. tacobo670

    tacobo670 Addict

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    mine has the opposite issue. drop blocks lowered 3.5in and its pushing the drive shaft into the trans, rubbing on the rear seal.
     
  5. 1lowSr5

    1lowSr5 Addict

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    Then put your angle the opposite way. Will then pull it away from the seal. :waytogo:
     
  6. TRUCK ACTION

    TRUCK ACTION Grand Toyotaholic

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    I still have a pair of 2'' dropped/angled blocks I had used with 2'' dropped rear springs.
    Free,just pay the shipping!:cool:
     
  7. tacobo670

    tacobo670 Addict

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    if i do that, it will create a harder angle for the u-joints. the tapered blocks allow for a "straighter" angle. its not like the gear oil is pissing out, its just "sweating" heavily. nothing a good blast of brake clean wont fix while changing my oil lol
     
  8. 1lowSr5

    1lowSr5 Addict

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    The angle of your driveshaft should not be parallel to the ground, what you need to do is Mike up the transmission side and you need to match that angle on the rear end on the rear side. By using the tapered blocks effectively keeps the driveshaft in line that it should be in, The angle might look aggressive but is where it needs to be. If you look in my progress thread it I'm now for linked in the rear but my angle looks really aggressive but that's were its supposed to be. Not enough angle on the U joints you can ruine your joints quicker that way then if there's too much angle. The driveshaft needs just the right amount of angle to allow the bearings to spin, to flat and the bearings won't spin and they seize up.
     
  9. 1lowSr5

    1lowSr5 Addict

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  10. tacobo670

    tacobo670 Addict

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    :thinking:
    ok. makes sense.
    on my drive shaft, the joints are sealed (non greaseable) - so having them dry out or burn up due to lack of rotation or sufficient lubrication is something i dont understand. now, ur truck is severely lowered, thus reversing the OEM angle of the joints? i suspect this is irrelevant. there is still some angle on mine but its definitely less than OEM. in any case, u may be prematurely wearing out the pinion bearing due to the opposite load that the shaft angle is at, instead of torque from bottom to top, the angle is now creating a top to bottom load. and with a low pinion OEM diff, this may cause a problem.

    the reasoning for my "straighter-angled" drive shaft and tapered block is for drag racing purposes. adding extra torque to a rotating mass while having 2 non-linear points is concerns for failure.
    example - using a socket, with a wobble adapter, and an extension - the greater angle u introduce while trying to torque the nut/bolt will cause the socket to slip off, break, strip off the nut/bolt, ect. now if u were to torque/tighten said nut/bolt straight on with just a straight socket, the ability to apply torque the nut/bolt becomes greater.
    ...isnt that why they sell "beefed up" joints for rock crawlers and such, because the angle of the shafts in relation to the suspension and its travel is greater, coupled with the increased torque that will be applied -one would Have to upgrade said components, otherwise risk failure.
    i think i just almost made myself retarded. :verdict_in: :looney:but never go full retard.

    honestly, the only reason for the joints is for suspension travel and the difference in height of the trans and the diff. but hey, i wanna 4-link my truck anyways lol
     
    Last edited: Dec 5, 2014
  11. 1lowSr5

    1lowSr5 Addict

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    I'm not going to re quote all that haha it would be super long. You are correct in all you said. I also come from a racing back ground. As you said a strait drive shaft setup will provide the most power to the rear wheels, all professional race cars have a perfectly in line drive shaft, but as you said they don't worry about the wearing out of parts as they only need to last 1 or 2 days. On my 64 I have 3 deg shims to keep the driveshaft where I want it. As you lower the vehicle the amount of angle on the driveshaft become more and then starts to mis align the yokes.
    Sorry it's late and I'm tired so if I'm rambling or this makes no sense disreguard it. Lol.
    As for the seizing part I'm talking about the u-joints seizing up. If you will notice your differential is offset? This is for the ability of a compound angle of you will. Just alittle off center to allow movement of the u-joint in all aspects. really complicated in the reasoning for it, but the crash coarse I got at the drive shaft shop says you need right to left angle plus up and down angle to allow the u-joints to properly use all 4 points. If not enough they seize and this is why joints bind up and break. Hope I covered it all again it's late and I'm super tired. Any questions you can always pm me and I'll do my best to explain it through text. :waytogo:
     
    Last edited: Dec 5, 2014
  12. tacobo670

    tacobo670 Addict

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    side note - doesnt the angle DECREASE when Lowering the vehicle? and increase when lifting?

    cool :thinking::drunk: no worries. i'll just have to drive it till it blows ... then we'll see who has the last laugh!! *dramatic villain music* :D
    although, i do know of ONE person who has exploded multiple driveshafts, actually twisted them. the joints were still intact. pretty awesome.
     

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