I think he is tired of the reliability and better gas mileage and wants to go back to endless carb tuning sessions I'm kidding
Everything I've heard says the OEM carb and EFI get the same milage, but EFI gets more power. If you want more power and more MPGs, you have to put on a Weber 32/36. So I've been told. I had a Weber 32/36 on a Datsun 521 1600 15 years ago. I liked it. It was simple and I didn't spend a lot of time tuning it up. I'm tempted to do this EFI to carb swap too, since my big game is efficiency, not speed. I have the 22R in the parts truck and the 22RE in the daily driver. My plan is to get the 22R in perfect shape on a test stand before installing it. Here's how they're different: The EFI runs a lot of things through the ECU. The 22R has some primative electronics, but with the Weber on, those aren't going to have the right sensors. Those sensors control electronic firing of the spark plugs and control the dizzy, so if you're going to go weber carb, you have to re-build your ignition system and make sure it's a simple points and coil type set up, including vacuum advance on the dizzy. The EFI also has a high pressure fuel pump in the tank, where the 22R has a low pressure mechanical pump on the front passenger side of the head, with an eccentric on the cam to drive it. If you want to use a 22RE head with a carb, you'll need some other fuel pump. The EFI pump is too high pressure for the carb. I think that's it, but this is why I want the 22R running perfectly on the test stand, so that I have no surprises. It's going to be a complete swap when it happens, rather than trying to put a carb on the 22RE. When it happens, I know I'll have a market for the 22RE, so buying a whole 22R isn't going to cost you much in the end.
Chelu to answer your question you will need to cut power to the fuel pump in the tank and remove it.You have the option of running an electric pump or the mechanical that bolts up to the head.In order to run the mechanical you will need the wheel that runs the pump that goes on the cam sprocket bolt.I have a spare mevhanical pump if you need no charge just lmk.A lot of dudes here will love the efi but sometimes you just work with what you got. I have converted two of my trucks and I am more then happy with my choice.Shoot chelu hood luck and lmk if you need that pump.
Just so it would be easier to work on and wire delete Naw it's just that I perfer carb Thanks for the input Thanks prim appreciate it ill lyk if anything.... Also would I need a 22r head or can I just use the re wats the difference?
I believe 85-95 heads pear shaped exhaust ports no difference between the two both were drilled for Efi manifold and carb manifold and the mechanical fuel pump egr holes
Hey guys having some problem hope someone can assist hope guys are still here I got a head out of a 1985 truck carb this truck ran fine before I took it the head out. i put that on my 1993 toyota pickup efi it goes on fine and everything but it idles rough engine shaking and will die at times it revs great no holding back or nothing but when I rev it to any rpm and hold it.it still is rough and seems like it's missing could the cam be the problem should I put back in my older cam
Not even going to read your post, EFI is the best way to go on any engine any where!! Inless you are talking about forced air injection, turbo or supper charged!! The engine will always get the correct fuel air mixture resulting in the best performance at any altdaueded
I want my efi but I'm just wondering if when I change the head to the head that came from the carb engine if I'm gonna have to use my original can that was on my efi so I wouldn't have to be setting my lifters with feelers gauge.at mmoment have the carved head on with the carb cam and my engine is shaking,idling rough missing and all of that it just came to me that maybe the cam need tuning or I should just put on my other cam that was set for the efi.
Ive read that SUPPOSEDLY theres a difference in the cams between EFI and carb, BUT! Ive also read that theyres no difference between them. Id check the plugs and timing. My question to you is, why did you swap heads in the first place?
Ok I will cal lc and see what's up.I changed the head because it was in the truck a long time my uncle had the truck and he had the head skimmed couple times and he didn't run coolant in it he used to run rain water,dont ask me why he did that,but anyway the head was messed up bad.also today I exchanged the cams,put the old cam back on and guess what no difference in action only rocker arms making that 22're little clicking sound, the only thing left for me to do is call lcd like toyotaholic said and or get a diagnostic which I'm gonna get done either today or tmrw which is about 2 gran because of my trucks age that's cheep I think......
One more thing guys can anyone tell me what wires that was on the auto tranny is my backup light I need to hook up my backup light switch I'm now running a manual tranny
Ok guys I called them this morn spoke to tony and he told me how to get the timing right so I'm gonna do that tmrw and see how it runs he said it can be the timing y it's acting up so I'll let you guys know what's up tmrw
I would also check into all of the vacuum lines. There are probably quite a few things different with them from efi to carb, and I know that I have had idling, dying, and rough shaking issues due to vac lines being disconnected or in the wrong spot.