Electric choke just needs a 12v power supply it powers the thermocoil wire in the choke

 

There are usually a few plugs on the passenger side fenderwell after all the emissions stuff is taken out. Just probe around with a test light to find one that has keyed power. Run a jumper wire to that. Some webers have a small solenoid on the side called an idle cutoff solenoid. Its either the primary main jet holder, or next to it. It needs keyed 12v too. Every weber I have had runs way better with them. So it may be a good idea to add one if you pick up a used carb without that part.

 

Well, went with an Electric choke. Should be here by the 5th

I can't seem to find the adapters you're talking about on the LCE website. Any idea as to the part #?

 

I haven't run any LCE adapters, but the normal 2 piece that comes in the kit is crap as far as sealing goes. Fits fine and is a low rise. If you use that type, I HIGHLY recommend JB welding it direct to the intake with both layers. Then cut out the bar between the stock intake plennum ports. If it was a 4bbl it would be considered going from spread bore to open bore. It makes up for the surface volume decrease. Weber is 32 and 36mm holes, stock is dual 28mm. If you cut the bar out you will have much snappier throttle response and a small mid range power boost.

The one piece adapters sit a bit higher, but allow a much better clamp to the intake and carb. Transdapt makes a nice one, which is part number TRD-2120 for a 20R intake. They have another version for a 22R intake. Its not a dual pattern type like the weber kit. Anyways, here is a link to it from Summit Racing. We have ordered parts from them for 20+ years and love their service and prices. Ships fast out of Reno/Sparks too.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/trd-2120

 

Well, it arrived yesterday while I was at work. Should begin install tomorrow.

 

Byker88 is right about the manifold adapter it's kinda on the flimsy side the paper gaskets that come with it I tossed out and got a sheet of cork gasket material and maid a thick gasket for my carb and adapter plate . Not saying this is a must but I did it as a precaution the jb weld or a rtv sealant around the base of the the adapter plate will also work if you suspect a air leak .. Let us no of ya have any troubles

 

got the carb installed the other day. the instructions that come with it actually recommend using a sealant on the lower and intermediate gaskets, so picked up some gas-resistant sealant at napa and used that.

had to use the throttle arm (the part that the linkage slots into) from the stock carb because the truck is an automatic and has a tranny kickdown lever linked up to it.

Truck starts and runs, but i'm waiting to see just how well while I delete or bypass the smog equipment, as I don't want to fill it back up with coolant with all those tubes unconnected.

 

Glad you got it working. Should be like a whole new animal now. Probably runs good cold better too. I have noticed the out of the box webers are a little lean on toyotas. Not dangerously lean, but there is room for power improvement by stepping up the jets a bit. I think on my truck I will lean out the primary side a bit to try and save a little fuel. Waiting until I hook up my Air/Fuel gauge. Need an O2 sensor bung on my header first.

 

After you get your smog deleted out of the way . Set up the weber per instructions the one s n the box are kinda spotty for beginners to carbs . If you search the web you can find a good weber tuning instructions with a little more depth into setting up and toying around with your carb and under standing webers 80% idle speed circuit wich is the responsible part for gas sipping

 

I have a rejetting guide on the site somewhere. Can find it under my "threads started by..." option of my profile most easily. There are also a few good weber books.The one by pat braden from hpbooks is a great one. Cover shows a bunch of gold plated hilbournes.