I hear a lot of talk about different weber 32/36 carburetors, and I find that I don't want the pain of the stock carb anymore.
Which version of the 32/36 (DGV, DGEV, DGAV, etc...) is the best? or has anyone tried the outlaw 38?

 

bump...

 

I think it's going to depend on what you're looking for in a carb.

the 32/36 gives a small bump in both power and fuel economy.

the 38 gives a bigger bump in power, but (as far as I know) not fuel economy.

Here's how I understand it:
If you're going to leave the motor mostly stock, a mild hp build or going for an mpg build, go with the 32/36. If you're going for more power and will be upgrading cam, exhaust, and maybe some other engine work (better flowing head, larger valves, stroke, etc), go with the 38.

 

I'm running a outlaw 38 on my stock 22r, runs like a champ. I'm running the jets that came with the kit and after adjusting the timing and setting up the idle mixture I have not touched it since.

I was considering the 32/36 because that's what everyone says to run i'm glad I didn't listen the 38 makes the 22r run like a raped ape. So far I have not noticed worse gas mileage, although I can't keep my foot off the go pedal.

The sheet REDLINE sends with the 38 kit says it won't get worse gas mileage than the factory carb, and will not be over carbed on a stock 22r.

I also deleted the egr and all smog equipment, I would suggest doing this if you didn't already.

Whatever weber you go with I highly recomment the lce billet adaptors to avoid intake leaks that plauge the factory adaptors they send.

 

The sub models are mostly what type of choke it has. They have water, electric and mechanical. Other than that a 32/36 is pretty much a 32/36. The biggest difference between the 32/36 and 38 is the 38 isn't a progressive. So both throttle blades open all the time. More power potential but less mileage potential.

 

Exactly what toy88yota said my motor is all stock. When i did the new weber 38 i did the lce billet carb adaptor and header back exhaust. My trucks runs so much better and smoother. I highly recommend the 38.

ITS NOT TOO MUCH CARB LIKE SOME PEOPLE SAY.

i am a mechanic for a living and have a full built toyota show truck thats not a trailer queen. Ill drive it anywhere and everywhere.
I have done wire tuck, shaved engine bay, complete emissions delete and still maintain factory ac.

These weber 38 carbs are a beautiful match for these 22r motors.

My brother in law (toy88yota) can vouche for me.
We did these carbs at the same time and its night and day on power and driveability.

 

Oem carb 326cfm
32/36 325cfm
34/34 synchronized can't Rember
38 a bit higher can't Rember the flow chart can't find it in my pc
If your looking for power side drafts or holly 500cfm assuming if your building a hot motor you pass the capability of weber down draft series carbs and 20/22r manifolds quick

 

If u want gas mileage and better power 32/36. But if u want something a little more power then the 32/36 with a slight hit in gas mileage I say 38. But if ur going to build the motor with cam headers yada yada I suggest side drafts if you know how to tune or holley 500 since it'll be one less carb to tune. Many people buy side drafts assuming more power and bolt on power but if you dknt know how to tune it then ur **** out of luck. Well basically that's any carb. Haha.

 

Stock carbs are only about 190 cfm. 32/36 is about 325cfm. 38 is about 380cfm.

 

Found it can't Rember the sight but it Had a lot of specs for the different generations of r series cam profiles and little bits of odd but useful info


Carb Flow
Stock 20R Aisan 190 cfm
Stock 22R Aisan 326 cfm
Weber 32/36 325 cfm
Weber Dual 38 390 cfm (Downdraft)
Weber Dual 40 405 cfm (Downdraft)
Dual Mikuni 40 PHH 724 cfm (181 cfm per tube)
Dual Mikuni 44 PHH 844 cfm (211 cfm per tube)

 

Who did you guys buy your Weber from? I'm thinking about the 32/36 for my toyota.

 

Summit racing has them, or directly from redline. I got mine from Redlines ebay store. And that chinook in your picture is sweet. Let me lower it. Please

 

I bought mine from Redlines ebay store also.

 

Ok, so I'm going for one that'll improve economy and power, so it sounds like the 32/36. Now, only question is which choke type is the least hassle? other than the weber, the truck will likely be bone stock for some time to come.

 

32/36 will suit your stock motor just fine and has a little room to grow ..as far as chokes does your truck have the water choke .or Electric if you have electric just get the weber with Eelctric choke
If you have a water choke .id do the manual cable choke .its just a little pull lever throttle cable type setup easy to install . And rarely fails . If your not wired for Electric chokes it is a easy thing to do as well

 

I've had crazy some crazy ideas about what could be done to the chinook. It would look pretty cool lowered.

 

Please make a detailed thread on the install. I'll be doing the same thing on my '77 soon.

 

I would say the electric is much easier to install, you can always buy the manual kit later for less than $20 if you don't like electric.

 

IMO been reading that electric is unreliable while a manual is the best you can get. I ordered a manual choke 32/36

 

Wouldn't an electric require some tinkering with the wiring for a stock 20r '77?