Sorry for the delay on the answer to the psi on the air shocks. I let them all the way down & then pumped them up to a good driving height. It took alittle more than 15psi to get the truck to ride good without bottoming out in the notch. These shocks can gp higher...they have a max psi of 35! Oh & for all you guys that have a standard cab truck if you decide to drop your truck like I did then you'll need to cut out the center crossmember that's under the cab. You don't have to cut/notch the floor after you do that either...that's only if you decide to body drop it.

almost down...

up...

 

Cool, thx for the answer. I'm running mine alot higher than that, about 85psi but I don't have a C-notch and a 4x4 rear spring. If I run the psi too low I bottom out because the spring is too soft. Does a 4x4 spring make a big difference?

 

ill be notching my truck tomorrow and noticed that im going to have to notch or modify the crossmember that holds the gastank as it sits about a inch away from the third member of the rearend..do those who bag get rid of this crossmember and keep the little bit that holds the tank? shoud i just modify this? any suggestions?

 

When I did mine, I cut it at an angle and capped it ( inline with the ribs on the axle )! Its plenty strong to hold the tank, I stood on mine about a half an hour after I welded it and it was hella strong ( course - Ima 150lbs ) so it is strong enough . . .

 

well i only got ya beat by about 15lbs so ill take ur word for it. i was just wondering about the integrity of the chassis is all by not having the frame rails at that location tied together by that crossmember anymore if i cut it...guess it will be fine?

 

im thinking about walking this path, really simple for the rear end also. just worried about frame strength in the rear

 

btw what tires are they? not the size, but manufacturer

 

I ran a peice of 1 1/4" - 1/4" wall right behind dead center on the notch to re-enforce the frame rails, also remember, you have a rear cab crossmember that gives the frame its strength as well ( the one the front of the gastank mounts to ) although for my application I had to cut mine out - BUT, you can notch this to if you plan on running a good drop or a body drop . . .

 

okay thanks for the help! ill be having to notch that cab crossmember as well.

 

my crossmembers are all intact, thank God =]

i dont plan for a body drop either. thanx for your replies Low

 

Hey guys, finally lowered mine a few weeks ago. 3" block rear with mono-leaf and flipped overload. Front is DJM with torsions cranked down. Pipe notch welded into frame in rear and rear cab x-member notched. Rides good but bottoms out hard. I finally realized my axle is hitting the rear most gas tank crossmember. Did you guys just notch this? I'm riding about 1/2 inch from tucking 16's. I need to tub the front also, tires are hitting the inner fenders.

Thanks,
Ryan

 

Low and Loud cut his out

 

hey how did yall do tha mono leaf set up i used the djm 3in controls arms havent really mess with it because they catch tha finders with tha235/60/14 that are on it i would like to go lower and i used the 4in blocks in that rear but havent c-notched it yet but the monoleaf info will help alot

 

Yep, sure did! As much travel as I get, the driveshaft kept wanting to mate with it, SOOo, out came the sawzall. Mind you, that u can still notch it, but in my case I had to relief cut the driveshaft tunnel a wee bit so it would fit ( tested thru different height ranges since its FBSS ). Mind also, that I did weld another support bar ( 1 1/4" tubing ) between the notches and still have the tranny crossmember & the 2 x 3 1/4" gusseted link support bar, so the frame retains rigidity and doesnt lose strength. Not claiming expert here, but, IT is and has been working just fine " NO problemo ". . .

 

Do you have any pics of what you did, would like to get a visual before I start anything!

 

Hell ya man sure will. I am putting a new 2" magnaflow exhaust on the truck within the week and Ill post em up. Ive been working and driving so much, I havent taken any more pictures since I finished ( for now ) So when I get er in the shop for the exhaust. Im going to take some pics and post em on my forum for everyone . . . Snows a comming so my driving days are getting very limited . . .

 

Montana eh? This girl in my class (hot cutie who is a champ at cross country) lived in kansas, moved to Montana in 2nd grade, and came back this summer. Ehh i like her ALOT but lol idk if she likes me any.

Anyways, it would be a pretty sight to see your truck stuck on a lump of snow!

I bet that driveshaft wanted to bone that cross member badly

Will you get a vid of your muffler?

 

Well . . . ya never know until you ask er out man, lifes to short to wait . . . As for the snow, you bet your butt Ima be sporting a few snow pics, with the new front valance thats 2" of the ground laid out, you bet itll make for some interesting shots, lift the rear, I could make some cash plowing ( totally joking ) plan for exhaust is to, get rid of the cat. the crappy blowout muffler and listen to the music, take some pics of truck and maybe post a vid if I feel up to it . . .

 

I got a c-notch welded in and notched cab crossmember. I haven't added any crossmembers yet so I was nervous about cutting that gas tank one. Yall think its ok? Its getting bagged probably in late Nov. but I would like it to ride a little better in the mean time.

-Ryan

 

i think it would be safe to try to relocate it, probably move the bar up vertically a few inches if ever possible. i dont know really so its just a suggestion

=D plowing with teh valance eh? lol! lmao i did some mod to my truck.. cant remember if i posted, but i did some version of a deckplate mod without a deckplate.

I drilled hole on bottom of Airbox, and that went through the tub too. about 2". so i put some alumnium tape around that hole too so no exhaust bay heat will get through a small gap. i also retained the 2" abs pipe ram air that routes using the factory airbox setup. So i have 2 2" inputs into my airbox, and 1 3" for the output of the airbox.
as for water, i drove in the rain today, there isnt really any water in the airbox but i will definetly check again next time. cheap mods lol. sounds great on full throttle