Another Click-Click-Click Case

Discussion in 'Maintenance/Repair' started by Mikerocosms, Aug 20, 2014.

  1. Mikerocosms

    Mikerocosms Veteran

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    Well yesterday I drove to the local Walmart for some masking tape for work. My truck was looking good and feeling good. I'm enjoying it more and more nowadays. When I got what was needed from WM I hopped in the truck and click-click-click. No start. Had to call my pops (we work together) to give me a boost. Brought it back and shut it down. Tried to start it back up and of course click-click-click.

    Battery shows 12.5-6v.

    I guess I gotta do the Big 3 that I've read about. Also possibly the starter solenoid thing the "Truck Action" has mentioned.

    One question I have is what size of ANL fuse should I use for the battery to alternator path?

    Also, any tips, recommendations would be appreciated.



    P.S. I intend to install a number of electrical devices. Is there a recommended drop in HO alternator that I can look into?


    P.S.S. Should I just get 4gauge wire or should I try for 0gauge? Places around here seem to only have 4gauge. I can order some 0 but it will get here in like a week.


    M
     
    Last edited: Aug 20, 2014
  2. TRUCK ACTION

    TRUCK ACTION Grand Toyotaholic

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    I posted the fix for this ,look under Starter.
    The problem is low voltage on the tigger side of the starter!!:cool:
     
  3. Mikerocosms

    Mikerocosms Veteran

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    Thanks buddy, I think I saw that post. I'm heading to napa to pick up the solenoid during my lunch.
     
  4. Robert m

    Robert m Addict

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    Why not test the battery? Just because it shows 12v, doesn't mean its not a bad battery under load. This happened to mine 2 weeks ago.
     
  5. White Trash

    White Trash Toyotaholic

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    YUP! My 90 came with a good working battery. My oldest brother saw the date on it a couple weeks ago since it's mounted in the bed of the truck and remarked that it was a good one since it was from '07. 2 days later it flat out died. :lol:


    It read 12.4 volts on my meter, I jumped it with a farm truck and it still read 12.3 volts here at the house but it wouldn't start the truck. Surface charge means nothing.
     
  6. Mikerocosms

    Mikerocosms Veteran

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    I went ahead and tested the battery under load and it read 5.3v. That doesn't seem good. I checked another car here in my shop and it showed 9.8v under load. I guess it's my battery. I already got the solenoid ($25) so I think I'll keep it in case I get another case of the clicks later on down the line. I might also still upgrade my wire but that is more of a back-burner type thing.

    Now to order a red hat Optima.
     
  7. White Trash

    White Trash Toyotaholic

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    DON'T DO IT!!! Optimas used to be a fantastic battery. Now they have shifted production to south of the border and no longer use pure lead so the life span has gone to absolute crap. I've gone through 3 of them and a cheap lead acid battery will out last them every time now. My wife has a 9 year old yellow top that is still kicking butt since its a pre mexico production battery.


    if you want a quality agm battery go to sears and get a platinum die hard. It's simply a relabeled odyssey with a great warranty.
     
  8. Mikerocosms

    Mikerocosms Veteran

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    Damn, too late. I already ordered it. I'll just have to give it a try. If it gives me hell I'll take it up with Amazon.
     
  9. Mikerocosms

    Mikerocosms Veteran

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    Well I got half of my stuff in today. Got a few lengths of red and black 0awg wire. I'm expecting plenty of 4awg wire in tomorrow. I already got a couple of new schoche terminals that accept as big as 0awg wire. Got my new battery. Will be doing my big three upgrade tomorrow.

    Hopefully everything comes in on time. Will post pics. I hope this gets my truck running.



    M
     
  10. TRUCK ACTION

    TRUCK ACTION Grand Toyotaholic

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    The Red Top is a starting battery, the Yellow Top is a Deep Cycle,they make a Yellow Top that is both,I ran this one for some years. Problem with Optimas is that if they get below 10 volts there will never come back up to full voltage in the vehicle even if you have a large alternator. They have to be slow charged for a long time to come back!

    I run a 150 amp alternator & the Yellow Top fail a few times while waitting in long lines @ shows!!

    I went to a 1500 Odyssey, way better battery!!:cool:
     
  11. Mikerocosms

    Mikerocosms Veteran

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    It's alive, IT'S ALIVE!!

    Well I changed the battery and did 2/3 of the Big 3 install. Basically I ran new 0awg ground to frame and to engine block to battery negative I also added a 4awg from battery to body. I traced then removed the old original 8awg starter cable then I ran 0awg from battery positive straight to starter post. I then added a 4awg from positive to the 80amp fuse (Alternator) after removing the original 8awg wire.

    I didn't do the other side of the fuse to the alternator mainly because I was running out of time. Plus I would have had to find another cleaver way to get that 4awg wire out of the fuse box.

    Anyways here are the pics...


    This is my truck without a battery.
    [​IMG]


    This is the 0awg from battery to frame and block.
    [​IMG]


    Here is a pic of my 0awg wire cutter and my power wire.
    [​IMG]


    Soldering only, no crimping.
    [​IMG]


    Battery, cables, and terminals, installed.
    [​IMG]



    I tested it at this point and it fired up faster and better than ever before. We'll see how this holds up. If more s**t hits the fan I'll run the rest of my 4awg to the alternator and get a platinum diehard.



    P.S. For those interested I used KnuKonceptz wire. Very good pricing and fast shipping, not to mention excellent wire.


    M
     
  12. White Trash

    White Trash Toyotaholic

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    That's a good setup other than the schosche terminal ends. I had them on my old slammed accord wagon and I couldn't keep them from corroding around the battery terminal. I tried them naked, they corroded. Used the anti corrosion washers, they corroded. Slathered the bare wire ends and around the terminals in dielectric grease and they still corroded. I was having to wiggle them once a week or so to make contact again. Sorry to keep pissing in your cheerios, I really don't mean to. :lol: Maybe you'll have better luck than I did.

    I have since switched to solid zinc military style terminals on everything I own and not had a single issue. Mine are like these. Cheap and damned durable. :D
     
  13. Mikerocosms

    Mikerocosms Veteran

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    Hahaha, late advice is better than no advice. I have a folder full of recommendations from stuff I've picked up on this site. The more the better.



    M
     
  14. Strider

    Strider Member

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    Great advice but unfortunately most of the "Lead Free" clamps are a China made product of alloy of zinc and aluminum, otherwise known as pot-metal. I hold my breath, cross my fingers and error on the loose side when I tighten lead free clamps down. For me the stuff just doesn't seem to hold up for long. The military isn't going to have pot metal holding stuff to their batteries. For greater durability it would be zink coated steel or lead. A truer Military Specification clamp is the lead Quick Cable positive #A52425-1 and negative A52425-2 clamps. They definitely cost more and to take it a notch a person might want to step up to stainless nuts, bolts and washers. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Quick-Cable...5349N-5350P-/361348789554?hash=item542210f532
     
    Last edited: Sep 27, 2015

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