been lurkin around the toyota enthusiast websites for a long time as they are great for the wealth of info available. i am in the brake/plumbing portion of my build and have been researching different master cylinder options. I purchased a master for a 96 Landcruiser from autozone but there was no option for abs or not. just wondering if this will work? the plumbing is not an issue and it bolts on no problem and the sensor is integrated into the side of the resevoir instead of the cap. if it will work it is a much cheaper option at only $68 bux and is brand new with lifetime warranty. this is probably an error in the system cause at advanced auto it is $208 again with no mention of abs. Master Cylinder (Brake System) | 1996 Toyota Land Cruiser 6 Cylinders J 4.5L EFI DOHC | AutoZone.com
forgot to mention that i am running 4 piston 4runner calipers and 12" rotors in the front and the factory front calipers in the rear w 10" rotors and an adjustable proportioning valve.
after a bit of searching the landcuiser was avail without abs untill 12/94, wonder what the difference between w or w/o abs?
Nice setup . Good to no info on the master cylinder I guess maybe the difference abs version may have an extra port or two to feed the abs valve/pump system possibly
thanks for the response! are the ports you are referring to where the lines connect? there are only two, one for the front and one for the back. im leaning towards just placing an order for a 94 ish one with no abs for an additional 40 clams.
Just out of curiosity, how much bigger is the landcruiser master? I recently looked for a 4wd master for my pickup and found that for some reason the one on my truck is already a 1" bore, rather than the 7/8" that I expected to find.
they are both 1" but there is some valving or whatnot that is needed for the rear disc to work properly, the landcruiser is 4 wheel disc and slightly more capacity i presume.
4 cyl and 6 cyl 4x4 are different. You have a single vs dual diaphragm booster. Makes a big difference... especially if going rear disc. On my Krawler I have FJ60 rotors, V6 calipers, rear disc, 1 ton chevy master with v-6 booster. Can slow it down real nice with a 4.3, 5.29 gears and 37" tires. If stomped it will lock up the rear on dry pavement.(not counting the extra weight of cage, winch, links and misc armor)
Dual is better. With the single stock, pedal was really mushy and on steep incline or decent pedal would almost hit the floor. (30 degree+) added te one ton master and pedal was hard as a rock and difficult to get vehicle to stop... Added dual diaphragm and now feels like stock with good ability to stop... If your not worried about soft pedal keep the stock master and will Be fine. Mine I wanted more strength as I drive my krawler to the trail and back so safety is a big issue.
Yup she is! Lot of work and $ but heck loads I fun. Won't go into it here as I'd hijack. Lots of learning on fab with that. In fact it's what is giving me the inspiration on new project as we just lowered the crawler 3-4"! Replaced chunk of frame etc... Now back so brakes!
so i guess the ultimate question is, should i be an entroprenuer (sp, can you blame me?) and go with this master witch i already have (96 abs) or go with what has been tried and true (94 non abs) master which i have to order and is $ 40 bux more? anyone feeling persuasive tonight?
that's all done at the prop valve, the job is to slow down the disc engagement so the fronts don't lock up first since teh rear drum brakes work on servo action akak hole lot of **** has to move for ti to work on most master's both primary and secondery plungers are the same size and movement is roughly the same as well this is on Toyota truck master not every master just so we are clear that and the cures booster is made for a 3 channel setup 2 front single rear
"that's all done at the prop valve" so there is no difference between a rear drum master and a rear disc master? "that and the cures booster is made for a 3 channel setup 2 front single rear " this master cylinder i plan to use has only two channels, one for front which gets split right at the booster and one for rear which runs out back before it splits. also idk what a "cures booster" is?
I think the valving difference in the master is that the master for a rear disk setup will have a residual valve set at roughly 2 psi. You can keep the stock master altogether and just add a residual valve from summit inline. I don't think there is any physical difference between the ABS unit and non ABS, the connector may be different for the level switch, but the ABS work is done by the actuator not the master cylinder.
cool beans! thanks alot for the info fellas, i think im going to forge onward with the one i already bought then.