Alright, as some have seen in my new member section I have some troubles with my carb. I believe I have narrowed it down to the jets being clogged. If I spray gas in the inlet of the carb, where the gas line hooks up it BARELY run if its straight into the bowl, it works. if i spray it in the front drain it works. of course, I mean until the gas runs out. The pump, pumps. Imagine that haha. and does so VERY good. It's brand new.

So, if I take my carb to a place that rebuilds them, what am I looking at the charging to rebuild it? 100 bucks, 50? I need an idea of what I should be paying. I can't do it myself, I would hurt someone or something in the process lol.

 

id call around a bit and see what shops will charge.

prolly gonna be $100 at the cheapest, but for that much you might want to try and find a reman unit or maybe a used weber.

did you try the carb clean trick i mentioned in the other thread?

 

i wasnt around a computer, so i couldnt check to see exactly what you said. i remember u saying there are two drain bolts, I could only find one lol. go figure. i also read it once i got home. You said to spray carb cleaner into the fuel entrance and pump it a few times. did you mean that gas, with the truck turned completely off? I tried spraying it in there but seems like it just flooded back out. Maybe I was doing it wrong, I don't have a clue lol. I'm not a motor guy at all to say the least. If I am going to need to put money into this truck, I am just going to get underway with the bags/body drop/motor swap. I don't want 300 dollars into the motor when I am not going to use it.

 

ya car off.

the theory is this:

drain carb of gas (put the plug back in)

replace the gas in the carb with carb clean.

pump the gas pedal a few times to circulate the carb clean through the carb.

allow to sit for 20min or so to break down the deposits.

then drain and flush until the lil yellow chunks of broken down gas stop coming out.




but if you took off the gas line and tried to spray carb clean into the fuel bowl through the same port (with the fuel bowl drained) and the carb clean flows back out the way it came, you could have stuck floats. sometimes a few lucky taps with a rubber mallett can jar em loose.


i was wrong about the 2 drain plugs, they do have em on the older models but i know better now

the plug im talking about is the 12 or 14mm bolt in front of the carb and in this diagram it is on the outside of the fuel bowl covering the "primary main jet"


click for bigger image


hope this helps

 

imagine that. it worked. I blew out the carb from the fuel line and it shot gas out of the little gold nozzle at the top of carb above the bowl. hit it with the socket wrench a few times and it cranked and ran like a champ. i tweaked the carb too much and made it not run LOL. whats a good rule of thumb to use when tweaking these carbs?

 

not to


seriously tho, the only real adjustments you "should" be able to make are the:

fast idle
idle speed
choke/upper butterfly



what did you tweak to make it not run?

 

two screws on the passenger side of the motor, one has a spring on it, and the other is like a horizontal screw. I really want to get this beast running nicely and throw some new brakes and 18's on it for cruisin around town.

 

sounds like you went out of the adjustment range


http://www.autozone.com/az/cds/en_u.../0900823d801893d8/repairInfoPages.htm#hd1-1-2

read that WHOLE page... 3 times.

then set the "Initial Idle Mixture Screw Adjustment" to spec

http://www.autozone.com/az/cds/en_us/0900823d/80/18/83/57/0900823d80188357/repairInfoPages.htm

read that page more than once then adjust the idle mixture and speed screws.


while your at it make sure that your vacuum lines arnt cracked, fit snug, and flow freely. should run like a champ after

 

talk about confused now like i said, I am in no way a mechanical person, I just like to fab stuff. Which screw is the idle mix adjuster screw? I don't have a clue what all that other stuff is, the EGR, and all the other stuff that they talk about plugging or removing hoses from and all that.

 

there is a whole lot more in those links then just adjusting the carb, only the relevant sections apply.

i cant tell you exactly how to tune your carb. im not intimate with the "newer" carb so im not sure what the screws were and how to adjust them.


is your carb the same as the diagram i posted?

all you have to do is figgure out what screws do what and set them back to the stock settings...which should be close to how they were b4. or ANYTHING you adjusted needs to be put back to how it was. if all you did was the 2 screws then just figgure out the which one is the mixture screw and set that to spec, it should run with a lil gas even if the idle speed screw is messed up.

start and warm up then adjust IF needed.

do you have a tach?

pics would be swell...can you circle the screws?

 

those are the two screws i messed with. idle speed, and idle mixture. I believe it said mixture should be like 4 turns out from fully turned in. I will try that in the morning. idle speed is what the screw driver it on.

 

stock carb - Weber 32 / 36

The first thing I did when I got my Toyota, I got me a Chilton ( Repair/serivce manual ) for it. Gives you all the best of knowledge for even a begginer, especially tune-ups, carb adjustments and so on, this book was a ( CHEAP ) life saver and especially helped when adjusting top end. For the LOW price I would get one, we know your all up on searching and asking questions, do yourself a huge favor and buy one, youll love it! I recently changed my stock carb out to a 32/36 Weber electric choke and have absolutely no regrets, extremely simple to adjust/set-up. I know your saving money for other stuff and dont wanna buy 300 $ carb, but the Chilton is WELL worth it !

* * * Special Thanks ! ; to Toyotaminis member Frinzo for his help in my final decision making on what carb would work the best for me in his opinion * * *



L o w N l o u d

 

i bought a haynes, they didnt have chiltons. probably a mistake. the only carb stuff it has is how to remove it haha. its worthless in that catagory. I appreciate the help, its appreciated. Im going to mess with it tomorrow a little bit now that I know what each screw is/does.

 

auto zone dot com has the whole manual for "most" older 2xr based cars HOSTED FREE, its chilton or haynes not sure i get em mixed up alot.



now hold on b4 you start adjusting, the 2 screws in the pic are for the idle speeds, if thats all you messed with it should run with a lil bit of pedal (too far out) or run REALLY fast (too far in. the idle shouldnt be a concern till it runs with your foot on it

its also possible that some real stubborn crap broke loose in the carb and you need to flush it again, try spraying from the throat to the fuel bowl with carb clean, feel free to spray any hole you can find, follow up with compressed air if you can or flush super good with carb clean and leave the drain plug off for a while to let it air dry

 

thats all i did, and yes with some pedal it does run......some times. i am going to tighten up the rear most one a little though, as its fairly loose. i believe the idle needs to come up a bit as it will start when u cna catch it and get the motor turning right away.

 

soo this is getting old haha. it just will NOT start, period. i turned the idle mixture out 4 turns or whatever like it says. i have no clue where the other belongs, and I have no idea why im not getting gas in the carb. when i blow air through the gas line it blows gas everywhere from inside the bowl i guess.....so i dont know why im not getting gas, and the pump DOES work.

 

so you are sure that the diagram i posted is your carb?


did you turn in the mixture screw till it stops (dont force or tighten) then back out 4 turns?


it is possible its flooded or the spark plugs need cleaning.


can you see fuel through the sight glass?

 

okay, i turned it fully in, didnt force it tight, but it stopped. 4 turns from there and some new plugs and she fired right up.......if there was some gas pedal action happening. idle is screwed completely, its non existant. i think thats my problem honestly. i need an idea of where to go for idle so i dont have to stay on the gas to keep gas in the carb.

 

ok now that the mixture is set to stock DONT TOUCH IT!


do you have a tach? i wont ask again

and im assuming that your carb is the same as the one i posted...

please to be helping me help you

if you dont, turn the idle screw in till it touches. if there is a "stock setting" for that screw do that, then adjust to the slowest idle where it still runs smooth.

 

no, i dont. sorry about that. and ye its the same as the azcom pics. i wasnt sure if wid open or closed shut was highst rpm so i didnt want to go either way