Put the pen-to-paper this eve. on the cost to rebuild the 20R in my 80 4x4 shortbed, here is what I've come up with ( ENGNBLDR.COM Engine Parts Network ) 20R rebuild kit# MEK902M $ 350.00 Cam upgrade ( 270/430 h/o ) $100 Oversized SS valves $60 Cost to rebuild 20R head $400 Port&Polish job $150 ( Subtotoal $1060.00 ) EBAY- Timing cover $55.00 ToyotaPerformance.com- New Head Bolts $26.95 ToyHeadAuto.com - RockerShaft Assmebly $230.10 ( Total for the engine @ that point $1372.05 ) Now for the stuff I'd buy to finish out the rebuild Carb kit - ( 300rgm is what i'm leaning towards, my ORG carb is trash ) $393.00 ( Racetep.com ) Hooker header - $175.95 ( summit racing ) D.U.I. Distributor $349.00- need the upgrade I think ( Summit Racing ) New Water pump $42.38 ( partsgeek.com ) New 3 core Radiator HiPerf model $270.00 ( 22RE Performance.com ) Grandtotal at this point $2602.38 budget for truck $3000.00 Amount left to purchase lift,tires,wheels,gears,Gas..........$397.00 Doesn't seem worth it to try and gain the power I'm after when I could get more than that by simply installing a Chevy v8. I can purchase a NP205 T-case and 4 speed trans or $400.00 and a really good 350 from another guy $300 complete from pan to Distb. Cost for complete Chevy running gear $700.00 leaving me $2300 to buy the radiator, motor mounts I end up with $1900.00 for the other stuff............................ Just can't see how the 20R build is worth it??????????
yeah that is a large number for a 20r build...you can do it for much less, I think I have like 400 bucks into my complete rebuild. $80 to machine block $45 to polish crank $60 to recondition rods $75 felpro gasket set $65 for piston rings (forgot brand but they are top notch) $80 for timing chain kit, timing cover, water pump, oil pump $60 main and rod bearings The cam and pistons I bought a long time ago which I think i might have like 50 into both... so it really depends on what you want out of your truck. a small block is very cheap to install. All you really need is the mounts which are 150, headers, radiator, drive shaft, and maybe a few odds and ends. but its simple, the most expensive part will be the motor and trans.
Yeah I'm pretty sure I can build this 20R cheaper, maybe even find a used engine cheaper, but I wanted to really build a stout 20R that would stand up to some rough abuse from time to time but still turn 33" or 35" tires with 5:29 gears with out any trouble running down the highway daily. What I'm after power wise is probably reached on a much less expensive level by running a very mild, even stock Small Block Chevy. I've built enough of those to do it blindfolded and I can buy a good running one dirt cheap right now, but the little 20R build would allow me to retain trans and t-case as well as driveshafts without the hassel of drivetrain angle problems. I think I'm even more confused now than when I started lol! Time to regroup I guess and look at this from another angel. Tried to search here for some v8 swap threads but didn't have much luck, if any one has any advise I'm all ears
theres pretty much zero info on v8 swaps. im going ls1 fairly soon and im going in with a blind fold because I know nothing about this motor in my truck... i dont think an old school small block will do you very good in mpg as the 20r will but I think you should basically choose right now which is more important to you, mpg or mph lol.
Engnbldr head, cam, DUI dizzy, rockers, header, all that valve stuff, radiator is totally unneeded expense. Most 2XR rebuilds dont even need a bore. Put new standard size rings and bearings (assuming the motor isnt locked up), rebuild the head at the machine shop (like 150-250) and a new timing chain, water pump and gasket set. Maybe 400 bucks on the expensive side of it. That extra 2K of stuff you listed wont make 20HP more than the factory, so why bother. And as far as a small block conversion, its totally doable. But its a VERY expensive swap. Ive seen 2 seperate builds personally, and both are money pits. Things like a T-case adapter, body lift, suspension lift, custom driveshafts, 500+ dollar radiatiors and fans. Not to mention headers, mounts, exhaust, fuel tank lines, ect. Not trying to shoot you down, Just trying to help you make a right decision.
Raffaelli - I'm looking for advise so speak up, that's what i'm here for. The truck is gonna get lifted anyway, 3.5" if I run yota engine, 5" if I go chevy v8 because i'll run bigger tires 35" atleast. BUT.... if all that extra stuff ( ie cam, oversized valves, port job ) can't add up to 20hp then my mind is probably made up for me. Thanks for the input so far guys, God Bless. Waylon
since you are building a 4x4 Im gonna say do some reading over on Pirate4x4.Com - The largest off roading website in the world. careful with any newbie questions though and check the Marlin Crawler forum, Marlin is like a god with the first gen 4x4 Yotas
Scored a major find today on the way to a job!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! 1980 hilux 4x4 shortbed with an 83 model 22r installed all complete except front drive shaft - $400 1977 2wd longbed 20R 90,000 MI. that runs strong! $400 Made the deal for both and will be driving the 2wd home Jan 1st followed by my buddies roll back wrecker loaded with the 4x4 . The 77 ran perfect and the old man said he would hold them for me until January, he threw in a set of 15" wheels for the 4x4 and 2 new 14" street tires for the 2wd. So I guess my engine delima was solved for me, I had allowed a budget of $3000.00 in January to put into my orange 4x4 this leaves me with $2200.00 for lifts, wheels, new tires, Diff gears, T-case gears, winch ect. what ever I can get until the money runs out. I'm stoked about it and will post some pics when the both get here! Yeah I research pirate but there a little unfriendly crowd for me to do much more, I will check out marlin for sure Thanks for the tip bro!
Make a 20/22r hybrid out of the 77 and 83 engines. then sell off the bodys gaining money back to go into the wheel/tire/suspension/etc.
The area I live in around N.E. Oklahoma is very rural and very poor coupled with a huge oil field , I've seen a hundred of these trucks sitting over the years because every oil well pumper who ever lived drove them because they were light TUFF TUFF TUFF and hardley ever got stuck plus they could abuse them daily and they just wouldn't break, it's just now that I have a reason to buy them that wish i'd of written down all the locations of the ones over the years . No worries though i've got my redneck crew on the prowl and by next year i may have a yard full God willing 80Yota that 77 20R is going right into my 4x4 but my worn out 20R and the 22R will be a stroker 2.6 build I can work on at work when it's raining and things are slow there. but the 2wd body is leaving after I remove the engine for sure.
Please post up the '77 for parts when you are done with it. I am rebuilding a '76 and there are some bits and pieces I know I need. I am in Western Colorado but am willing to pay shipping. Looking forward to seeing a few pics of your project as well! Thanks!