I'll be pulling my motor next week to replace all the gaskets, and while i'm at it I figured I'd clean up the engine compartment of clutter. Since my truck is 10 years past the emissions check (20 years rolling in Clark Co) I'd like to get rid of as much of the vacuum hoses and extra crap as possible. I figure I can get rid of the air pump, and most of the vacuum hoses that go over to the pass fender, but with a stock 20R carb what is the bare minimum I can run? I'm going to take pics of everything and where they all go before I tear anything apart. I'm sure I'll have to keep the Power booster hose, and probably the manifold vacuum to the intake... the PCV, etc, but what else do I HAVE to have? And I am keeping the stock air cleaner. Thanks in advance. Trying to do this as quickly and trouble free as possible.
the bare minimum is all the stock crap. stock carbs really dont like to be F'd with. put a weber on it and get down to 4 vac hoses in the eng bay or less if you want.
Well I just pulled the air cleaner and exhaust heat shield. Wow there are some hoses. Like 20-30. There are hoses everywhere. Unbelievable. So as far as the carb goes, there's gotta be a simple way to set it up. I mean, it only needs to send a vacuum signal to the distributor, and maybe an intake vacuum line. The one for the brake booster should be on the intake itself. All the carb needs to function is vacuum from the intake, normally below the butterflies. So why can't I strip it all off, plug all the ones open to vacuum (that lead to the intake)run the one to the distributor, and that's it? The Webers do that! I want this to be a simple as possible, and those hoses are worse than any EFI setup I've ever seen, even the over complicated 280z / 280zx EFI. Is there an early 20R carb that has less crap attached to it?????
I would listen to ShoNuff he knows his stuff..... I just rebuilt the stock carb on my 76 two days ago and forgot to connect one vac line and it ran like poo. but as soon as they were all connected it ran like a new truck. i think on the stock carb it likes to have all those hoses and think of it this way... if it didnt serve a purpose why is it even on there in the first place?
ok then... the stock carbs are 90% vacuum acutated. meaning for minor mixture adjustments and AIR pump/EGR activation and the secondarys. the other 10% is the idle cut solinoid and the choke. i have experimented, and the best you can get is to remove the egr and get it to idle. there is no performance gains what so ever, unless you have a 100% track car and are trying to shave .0002 of a sec off your eta by the wieght loss. if you are dead set on trying to mod the stock carb in futile effort to look cleaner and more hp go to www.pirate4x4.com and search the toyota section. theres a couple people there that have almost got the performance of a weber 32/36 out of a stock carb by modding the $hit out of it. if your trying to get your eng bay this clean looking or this or get pimpin clean or you just feel like throwing a supercharger on without the hassle of efi put a weber on cept for the obvious side draft, all other carb pictures are weber 32/36 and i own and drive each and every one.
It's not a question of trying to get more performance, it's more that it's going to be really really easy to screw up re-assembly, plus diagnosing an issue. I won't know whether the carb is junk or that I just screwed up by switching two vacuum hoses. I'll probably just take 2486584624234 pictures and just put it back the way I found it. And if it comes down to it I'll check into a Weber. There's a guy on here selling one right now. Those bolt to the stock intake or with an adapter? Oh well, either way this looks like it's gonna be FUN. Anyone wanna come over and help me tag the different lines???
See, now that's got me thinking about that. My engine compartment is the exact opposite of that - dirty AND messy. The paint on the fenders and hood are clean, but there's a layer of filth and oil on everything... plus with oil on everything that means anything made of rubber is gonna fall too pieces that is coated in oil. I may just go the Weber route, but I'm gonna try and get the stock setup working first. The stock carb needs a rebuild, so I'll tear it apart, mark all the hoses and put them back the way I found 'em. If it all works then I'll replace the hoses with fresh ones, one at a time.
LOL! it's just my wallet that's stubborn, it doesn't want to give me any more money than I have.... I'm leaning that direction, and I'll probably go there eventually. Before I spend more money on this engine I have to go thru it and make sure it's worth it. To be honest if I had my way and unlimited funds, I'd go 3rz I mean, it bolts right UP! In fact, I'm putting some money away for a bit to do just that... 150+ hp and 200ft lbs in an '80 SR5? Nice. But then again I'm crazy
eh.. your not crazy im pushing around 150+ in my 77 i know ill get more power once i get my 38 weber full exhaust and my timing set better hell on a good day i can get it to kick sideways hitting 3rd gear
make sure the hoses were hooked up right to begin with. Problem I had when I bought mine was the PO had things hooked up wrong. It looked fine at first glance, till I compared it to the manual. That in itself fixed a few problems.
Well problem solved, I have a Weber 32/36 now and when I clean the motor up the Weber goes on. I'm glad I don't have to try and make that snakepit go back together right
So as far as vacuum routing, I am running the stock dual diaphragm distributor. One is a retard and one is an advance. if I remember right the top one is retard. So.... I'm not sure if I should even hook that one up, that's for a vacuum switch I already took off. So, I need to run idle vacuum to the advance diaphragm. Is there any other hoses I would need? I'm running a 32/36. the EGR valve and water valve (between the intake ports) have vacuum ports, plus the thermostat housing. Since I'm not using the EGR those are left alone. I have one manifold vacuum coming out the side of the intake in the front. Was going to plug that. Basically, I need to see a pic of someone's setup with a Weber and no EGR. I wanna keep this motor as simple as possible. I'll scrounge around the site because I remember seeing a pic but I haven't had any luck yet.
