Discussion in 'Suspension/Chassis' started by jblaust, Dec 9, 2015.
Glad you got it fixed finally. Amazing what bad geometry can do for drive ability eh?
Yeah it was pretty sketchy. I still havent gotten to really drive it. Still working on getting the ride height right and Im waiting on some custom 4 inch solid angled blocks from Beefed Taco. The short ride I did take was a HUGE improvement.
I have an extra set NEW of these cross drilled and slotted rotors and ceramic pads $100 shipped if anyone is interested.
So after all of that...I have still been dealing with some steering issues. It is nothing like it was before, but it still has some play in the steering that bothers me. I had the steering gear box rebuilt twice while I was trouble shooting all the previous problems. Now I am considering getting a new one and changing the pitman arm (which is still original). I have had some issue matching my pitman arm that I have installed on the truck. Most that I see listed have a ball joint on the end. Mine is open ended on both sides. Before I make this purchase I want to make sure I am installing the right parts. My concern is someone added the power steering to my truck before I purchased it. Im not sure if they used the right parts for my year or just made something work. I have already seen in the past that they mixed matched parts and rigged things up that I had to fix. I know my power steering resovior is from an older pickup and they used the wrong steering linkage and drilled new mounting holes for the gear box in the past. Im thinking most of the 2wd power steering parts are interchangable between 1989-1995. Im looking to replace the power steering gear box and pitman arm. I just want confirmation that the parts im looking at are correct for my 1994 2wd pickup. #11 in the diagram is the pitman arm I currently have on my truck. Part Number: 4541135320 pitman arm POWER STEERING, 2WD. I suspect it could be bent front the previous misalignment of the gear box the original owner did using the wrong steering linkage. I just want to change everything and know where it came from. I would like to hear what you guys have to say about this before I start ordering parts.
Your pitman arm is fine. Check the backlash on the steering box. Odds are the box just hasn't been adjusted since it's been rebuilt and the bearings are now seated allowing slop.
I know that there is a nut with a screw that you turn, but what is the proper procedure to adjust the steering box?
Jack the front end up. Back off the nut, turn the screw in till it bottoms out lightly. Now turn the wheels back and forth and check the adjustment. If it still has slack go tighter. If it's too tight you'll know it because the steering will be tougher and it won't return to center.
Gonna give this a try first. Thanks!
quick question have u checked the bushings on the bars that go from the control arm to the rad support (the correct name eludes me right now)
No I haven't but I will...Those bars are a bitch to get on and off.
I tried adjusting the box..Still have some play. Im going to take the truck to a chassis shop that specializes in aligning lowered or hard to align custom cars and trucks. Gonna let them align it and tell me what they think. They specialize in all kinds of custom jobs and have a reputation for being the best in Miami.
thanks @Robert m re the correct name.. but yea i had a similar issue with my pickup few years back where it had that uncomfortable play in the steering and it was solved after i went full polyurethane bushings all round
I decided to replace all the bushings for the Strut Rods and the Front control arms with energy suspension Polyurethane bushings from LCE. Gonna change all bushings and get a proper alignment from a shop that specializes in custom lowered vehicles. I just want it tightened up and driving like it should once and for all.
Going to do a write up on install?
I've had all of those bushing sitting in my garage for a couple years now...Just hate not driving my truck, lol
It doesn't help my temporary vehicle would be a Ford Explorer with a wicked pull to the ditch and when it hits bumps it feels like its rearing to do a side flip! Damn Ford engineering, lol.
The upper A arms and lower control arm bushings suck to remove but that's the hardest part of the installation.
I used a couple pieces of pipe, washers and 1/2" all thread to make a press to get the lower bushings out of the frame.
If I do the install, I will do a write up. I may just have this shop do the bushings and the alignment. Depends on $$.
Shop wants $340 labor to install the bushings and $80 for the alignment. $420 for everything. While I like that number in particular...My pocket does not.
Sorry to Jack, but while we are on the subject...
I have all poly bushings ready to install, but I worry about decreased ride comfort.
To those that installed them. How was the ride affected?
Update on this. Took it to the shop I mentioned before yesterday. I was ready to have them install the energy suspension bushings I already bought. They loosened and inspected the front end on the lift and told me i didn't need bushings and they didn't recommend the poly bushings in my lowered application because it will make for a much stiffer ride. They also said there is issues with noise from them even when you grease them well as directed. He also said they can wear out prematurely. He thinks the stock bushings are the best and are good in these trucks for 300,000 + miles. They believe my steering issue is coming from my power steering gear box (which has been rebuilt twice now). When they rebuild the box they only change the seals for leaks. If there is any problems with the gears (which is rare) you will continue to have problems after the rebuild. They told me to get a different used gear box and rebuild it or find another rebuilt gear box and go from there. Apparently they think my gears are shot inside my power steering gear box. And the mission continues. I ordered a rebuilt gear box online last night.
Good you have one on the way.
As far as the bushings go, I've never had a noise issue using them in other vehicles, and only a small stiffness increase. However, I've never installed poly bushings in a pickup. I think I might just go for it. ES bushings are so much cheaper than factory rubber. And my 155k mile Midwest driven rubber is a bit cracked. And I'm dealing with a lot of rust. So much that I worry about blasting the arms, or replacing them.
Your truck looks very clean. Save 400 and do the work yourself. Most of the work for me has so far been spraying the rusted bolts and heating them to break them free, or break them. I gave up on impacting the leaf u bolts and took a long bar to them and snapped the u bolts...
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