Truck looks great, our trucks look so similar, lol.
I agree, best $12 ever spent on the seat cover! I told my wife when I bought my Hilux - doesn't look pretty on the outside being primer gray, but the interior is cherry and that's all you're gonna see when driving it, lol

 

I'm also a Celica Supra owner, and their tanks are notoriously bad. Some folks have had success dropping the tanks, filling it with vinegar and pebbles, sloshing the hell out of it, dumping the crud and then either straight reinstalling, or coating with something like POR-15.

To me, the option of an aluminum fuel cell for under $200 is pretty appealing.

 

Hey guys I swapped out the brake booster today with a remanufactured one and it didn't seem to fix anything. Brake pressure feels just as firm as before and the idle is still high. When I bought it the previous owner said "either replace the booster or plug the vacuum line to the carb and it'll run fine" cause the idle is high and you have to stand on the brake pedal in order to stop.

I used the old spacer and made new gaskets out of gasket paper. I don't see any fluid leaking out of the master cylinder so I assume it's okay.

Am I missing something? Any suggestions?

 

Shouldve replaced the vaccum line first.

Does it have a check valve in line?

 

Yeah it looks like it does..

 

Pictures of a few things... Currently trying to track down that booster check valve and finally took a look at the carburetor.

Can anybody help identify which carburetor this is? The previous owner claims to have paid $350 for it 2 years ago, but doesn't remember what it is.

Thanks guys!

 

looks like a factory carb

 

Hey guys good news! Jetas was right on the money, turned out to be the brake booster check valve. The old one was very hard to blow through, and I think it was even installed backwards... Anyway the dealership wanted $60 and a month for a factory piece and I couldn't find any locally that share our same design so I found a cheap plastic one on Amazon for $7. I also ordered a metal Nissan check valve that'll be here in a couple weeks for $20 - it was the cheapest metal replacement I could find.

I ordered the valves last night and the plastic one was here this morning (go Amazon!) so I popped it in and the brakes are finally normal. So happy it's fixed.

The engine runs smoother but the idle still seems high. It's an automatic without a tach but sounds like it's around 1500 rpm. The engine will also nearly stall when I apply the brakes if I'm in drive. Possibly a vacuum leak? I'll probably change the brake booster vacuum line too.

I also installed some fender mirrors, painted my grill black, and found an awesome Toyota cigarette lighter on ebay. It's coming along!

 

Mirrors and lighter are excellent touches.

 

looking great and glad to hear the brakes work finally.

 

Hey guys haven't done much with the truck lately. Driving it here and there but that's about it. The idle is sometimes really sporadic and takes a bit of technique to keep the truck running while driving it around town. It looks like the previous owner removed most of the emissions stuff and I think I have a factory carb.

I've been debating on whether to just keep the 20r and maybe do a tranny swap, or actually dive into a full 3rz swap. I tested compression on the existing 20r today and I got 150, 150, 138, and 155psi. I read these motors are supposed to be around 170-180psi? What kind of compression do you guys have and is this too low for it to run well?

I was thinking of just throwing a Weber carb on there and calling it a day, but what do you guys suggest? Should I just rebuild it or swap it? Could I maybe get some compression back with a valve adjustment?

 

Re do the compression test but put a little bit of oil in the cylinder before testing it. Should bump the numbers up

 

Thanks jetas. I'll try again when I get some time.

Side note..... I drained the oil and refilled it with 20w-50 to hopefully slow the oil leak - it was losing like 2-3 qts per week.

I did the oil and the compression test this morning then took the truck for a drive. It felt smoother than before and the idle was fairly reasonable, it was a nice drive until I got home! The lower radiator hose had popped a hole and was spraying coolant everywhere...

Do you guys think there's any relation to the heavier oil possibly causing it to overheat and pop a hose? Any ideas?

 

No, just an old hose, most likely did the temp gauge go up ?

 

Any updates? I'm looking into putting a 3RZ into a RN20. Wondering if there would be issues with the sump. Looks like with a rear sump it would hit the steering link, and with a front sump it would hit the cross-member.